6G Celicas Forums

My face when the pulley turns lmao. It turns I had to drag my lazy ass brother to crank my car. Therefore its the starter then right?


Initially I think the ignition coil went because the glue plastic looking stuff had a nice split in it. And I think due to my dumbass trying to crank it over and over again thinking itd magically start caused the starter to go. Coil went on its own my dumbass broke the starter I think.

Not to mention the no spark until the new ignition coil was in spitting fire **** I need a new intake cone haha

This post has been edited by SiriusVirus: Aug 1, 2013 - 1:16 PM

if the pulley turns its not your starter

The "glue plastic stuff" is epoxy, and if it was cracked it's a good sign the coil was bad.

Silly question, but have you charged the battery since this whole ordeal happened? If not the battery will be pretty much dead by now. If you haven't charged the battery try jump starting it now.

This post has been edited by Box: Aug 1, 2013 - 4:20 PM

We tried jumping it even when we volt metered it at a 12.6 . Hmmm im still at work m gkmma check the timing belt when I get hme ssince I'm pushing it in my garage

This post has been edited by SiriusVirus: Aug 1, 2013 - 8:56 PM

it sounds like it really wants to start but no compression basically. mechanic friend who just finished his classes warned me and my friends mark the exact placement of the ignition coil. we basically lost top dead center with piston 1 checked the time belt it was still on and after cranking it was still alright. so ignition time is the problem????

edit: in our haste to get it done we didnt mark it and took it in an out several times. im not surprised if this is what did it.

This post has been edited by SiriusVirus: Aug 2, 2013 - 12:58 AM

ignition coil placement wont cause a problem with compression, if your timing belt is ok and your starter is engaging the flywheel you may have a more serious problem.... the engine is free spinning from the you tube clip you provided.

have you checked your oil for antifreeze, if you blew a headgasket badly enough that its blowing compression from 3 or more cylinders it could free spin like that, when the engine died on you while moving was there alot of smoke?
also if your timing belt skipped from bad belt teeth it could free spin like that.
this is a reach but if your last tune up the spark plugs were only put in hand tight rather then torqued they may have loosened enough to leak compression

i would say find your compression problem first then worry about spark timing

ignition coil placement wont cause a problem with compression, if your timing belt is ok and your starter is engaging the flywheel you may have a more serious problem.... the engine is free spinning from the you tube clip you provided.

have you checked your oil for antifreeze, if you blew a headgasket badly enough that its blowing compression from 3 or more cylinders it could free spin like that, when the engine died on you while moving was there alot of smoke?
also if your timing belt skipped from bad belt teeth it could free spin like that.
this is a reach but if your last tune up the spark plugs were only put in hand tight rather then torqued they may have loosened enough to leak compression

i would say find your compression problem first then worry about spark timing

I was doing late night work again on it the rotor on the distributor is slightly bent and it looks like it was scratching the cap you can see hair line scrapes and scratches of where it banged around. After fiddling with the rotor (bending the rotor to proper angle but still a tiny bit that isnt flush with the plastic) actually had a nice detonation then went. When my car died there was absolutely no smoke, just a basic stall. My next move before giving in and taking it to a mechanic is replacing the rotor.

Also I did the spark plugs with a ratchet and proper extension

This post has been edited by SiriusVirus: Aug 2, 2013 - 5:42 AM

shoulda come in here earlier. but just a tip when you engine seems to be flooding with fuel. unplug the fuel injectors and then crank the engine to dispose of built up fuel. thats the easiest and most effective way

i also blew the am2 fuse on first crank with the ignition coil could that have blown the coil? i replaced the fuse

Or just remove the fuse for the EFI/fuel pump and crank it, now that I think about it. I come from the world of carburetors, to do the same meant disconnecting fuel lines from below the pump.

This post has been edited by Box: Aug 2, 2013 - 1:36 PM

ugh this is such a head ache. i just dont get it. i have to jump the car each time i try to start it. it sound like it really wants to start but just wont go. could the ignition coil be defective? i mean i am getting spark to the plugs i tested it with a spare spark plug. sigh.... any more ideas anyone?

Depending how long you tried to start it at one time you could've burnt out the starter motor. Perhaps the battery is weak, if the battery will start another car fine then I'd look into the starter perhaps.

This post has been edited by Box: Aug 2, 2013 - 10:01 PM

i replaced the starter knee jerk reaction maybe i should take another battery in it. I mean I had the original toyota starter from nearly 20 years ago. So I think it was over due for a change only 88$ on amazon no core bs

could it be a ecu??

This post has been edited by SiriusVirus: Aug 3, 2013 - 2:01 AM

still think you need to address the compression problem
ecu wont cause 0 compression cranks


i think you timing belt skipped

no compression
no compression

This post has been edited by b22ri22an: Aug 3, 2013 - 6:43 AM

How do I see if my timing belt skipped? And how much would that run me because im not nearly confident enough to do timing belt work

Look at the ECU board very carefully

Timing Belt Kit

timing belt isn't that difficult there are some walkthroughs
hardest part will be removing the harmonic balancer, put the car in park or 2nd gear and use a really long pipe for torque and remember to chock the wheels

Timing Belt Sticky

This post has been edited by b22ri22an: Aug 4, 2013 - 2:19 AM

You should be able to remove the top cover and see if the cams are still in time with each other or not. I don't foresee it skipping both cams and having them both equally out of time with the crank.