cv axle, quick question. |
cv axle, quick question. |
Nov 3, 2013 - 10:10 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jun 8, '13 From goldsboro, NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
How hard is it to change the driver side cv axle for some one that isn't too mechanicaly inclined.
|
Nov 3, 2013 - 3:54 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 13, '12 From CA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
What's the most that you have done as far as repairs?
|
Nov 3, 2013 - 4:34 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Dec 22, '06 From Columbia, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
its a bit of a pain. the snap ring on the trans end of the axle was my biggest annoyance
-------------------- 1995 GT::::Diffusing the Situation エキサイティングカーレーシングチーム! march 2010 COTM : 6GC feature 2014 : january 2015-2016-2018 COTM |
Nov 3, 2013 - 6:52 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '12 From Hanford/Fresno, Ca Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
The snap ring is a pain in the ass. I tore apart my old axle because I kept pulling it but the inner axle was still stuck in the transmission. Had to grip it with pliers and attached
it to a slide hammer to get it off. -------------------- |
Nov 3, 2013 - 9:18 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined May 31, '11 From Rochester, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
The snap ring is a pain in the ass. I tore apart my old axle because I kept pulling it but the inner axle was still stuck in the transmission. Had to grip it with pliers and attached it to a slide hammer to get it off. This. Vice grips and a slide hammer. -------------------- 1994 Toyota Celica GT-S 5S-FE 190k Miles. Project car 1992 Toyota Celica GT 5S-FE 170k Miles. Daily driver/beater 1999 Toyota Camry LE 5S-FE 216K Miles. RIP You will be missed. *ASE Certified General Manager |
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:35 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jun 8, '13 From goldsboro, NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
|
Nov 5, 2013 - 12:58 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) |
If the most amount of maintenance you've done is brake pads, then............well. Let me put it this way, there are a few different methods. One (this applies to OEM) you "pop" it out using the collars/pry bar. Two, slide hammer/vice grips/whatever, mostly this will apply to aftermarket as the "collars" are missing, Three (my preferred method, in regards to 'most" aftermarket), ratchet strap to keep tension and pry bar. All in all, the driver side is not that bad. If the half-shaft is shot, just get it out by whatever means and replace it.
|
Nov 5, 2013 - 2:39 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 2, '07 From Berlin, WI Currently Offline Reputation: 18 (100%) |
ok, so what are your guys' opinion/recommendation on OEM vs Aftermarket?
I'm sure OEM is best but just wondering if aftermarket has an issues/ problems. -------------------- *1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS *1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser *2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost 2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun. |
Nov 5, 2013 - 6:59 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined May 10, '10 From MA Currently Offline Reputation: 37 (100%) |
autozone ones worked fine for me
|
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:13 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 13, '12 From CA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
What's the most that you have done as far as repairs? change break pads.... If thats the only thing you've done be prepared to take at least 3-4 hours to do the job. You're also going to need an impact wrench or an extremely large breaker bar and a lot of power to break the axle nut loose. It can be very stressful when the inner ring will not pop loose but if you use a pry bar and use moderate force it will come out. Also, make sure you get the OEM outer shaft seal. |
Nov 6, 2013 - 12:12 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jun 18, '09 From Orlando Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
ok, so what are your guys' opinion/recommendation on OEM vs Aftermarket? I'm sure OEM is best but just wondering if aftermarket has an issues/ problems. Autozone, Advance Auto, O'reilly's, NAPA, nor Carquest have the correct axle in stock. They carry a variation of TO-8100, which is categorized as a sixth gen axle but is actually for a 5GC, and is too short. EMPI is what ended up fitting for me, special-order through Carquest. Secondly, the Duralast axle I worked with did not have indentations on the tulip, which makes it hard pry out. Not much of an issue with installation, but if you ever have to remove it... autozone ones worked fine for me Part number? This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 6, 2013 - 12:16 AM -------------------- '97 ST \ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+ [sold 10/18]
'93 MX-5 LE |
Nov 6, 2013 - 10:33 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jun 8, '13 From goldsboro, NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
what about these ones on amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/TO87698768A-front-Le...ota+celica+1995 when changing the driver side do i also need to remove the passenger side axle also? is there anything i should change out while im down there? If the most amount of maintenance you've done is brake pads, then............well. Let me put it this way, there are a few different methods. One (this applies to OEM) you "pop" it out using the collars/pry bar. Two, slide hammer/vice grips/whatever, mostly this will apply to aftermarket as the "collars" are missing, Three (my preferred method, in regards to 'most" aftermarket), ratchet strap to keep tension and pry bar. All in all, the driver side is not that bad. If the half-shaft is shot, just get it out by whatever means and replace it. what do you mean by "collar" |
Nov 6, 2013 - 4:59 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '12 From Hanford/Fresno, Ca Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
Since you're down there you might as well buy new nuts to replace the filler and drain nuts. Also swap the fluid to Pennzoil synchromesh. Well at least that's what I ended up doing with my s54. The old filler and drain nuts are stupid big and flat so it's hard for the socket to grip and also the Pennzoil synchromesh will help out your synchros and prevent the common 3rd gear grind.
-------------------- |
Nov 6, 2013 - 5:28 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jun 18, '09 From Orlando Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
what about these ones on amazon? I can't tell from here, there is no length specification. The DS axle length should be 25 5/8" (although I must double check). The incorrect axle length that I have found commonly sold is 24 19/32." I bought this one, and it was too short by a few mm, although it cross-checks correctly with my vehicle pretty much everywhere. Although you have a GT so that may change your experience, but I've heard of errors on that account as well, I think Jonathan (808celica) had issues with fitment too. This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 6, 2013 - 5:37 PM -------------------- '97 ST \ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+ [sold 10/18]
'93 MX-5 LE |
Nov 6, 2013 - 10:04 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined May 10, '10 From MA Currently Offline Reputation: 37 (100%) |
ok, so what are your guys' opinion/recommendation on OEM vs Aftermarket? I'm sure OEM is best but just wondering if aftermarket has an issues/ problems. Autozone, Advance Auto, O'reilly's, NAPA, nor Carquest have the correct axle in stock. They carry a variation of TO-8100, which is categorized as a sixth gen axle but is actually for a 5GC, and is too short. EMPI is what ended up fitting for me, special-order through Carquest. Secondly, the Duralast axle I worked with did not have indentations on the tulip, which makes it hard pry out. Not much of an issue with installation, but if you ever have to remove it... autozone ones worked fine for me Part number? Well I have a GT and you have an ST so that's probably why it's been fine for me |
Nov 7, 2013 - 12:58 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '09 From Westport, MA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
I just replaced a set again today, always a good time.
Impact tools are your friend with this stuff, if not PB Blaster or WD-40 will help get the job done for the two nuts and bolt for the control arm to ball joint, and I pry bar to pull down the control arm a tad. The slide hammer always does the trick for me tho to pop the axle out and a good hammer to snap the axle back in (keeping the axle StraighT of course) also good to put the axle nut on so its flush with the shaft and that way you hit the nut and axle shaft tip, and not messing up the axle threads. That's how Ive always done it. It is a process, but doable with patience. second set of hands can be a big help pulling the strut and knuckle out of the way. 1-4hrs depending on experience level. -------------------- st205 powered ss3 coupe
|
Nov 7, 2013 - 6:51 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) |
what about these ones on amazon? http://www.amazon.com/TO87698768A-front-Le...ota+celica+1995 when changing the driver side do i also need to remove the passenger side axle also? is there anything i should change out while im down there? If the most amount of maintenance you've done is brake pads, then............well. Let me put it this way, there are a few different methods. One (this applies to OEM) you "pop" it out using the collars/pry bar. Two, slide hammer/vice grips/whatever, mostly this will apply to aftermarket as the "collars" are missing, Three (my preferred method, in regards to 'most" aftermarket), ratchet strap to keep tension and pry bar. All in all, the driver side is not that bad. If the half-shaft is shot, just get it out by whatever means and replace it. what do you mean by "collar" On the OEM halfshafts there are these collars (or dog ears, tabs, etc....) that are on the inboard tulip. These aid in removal, as they give a spot to pry on. Most aftermarket (in my experience) are smooth and do not offer this. Although a rebuilt OEM should have it. |
Nov 7, 2013 - 8:50 PM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '12 From Hanford/Fresno, Ca Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
^The one I purchased refurbished drivers side from O'Reilly had the collars.
-------------------- |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: December 4th, 2024 - 11:12 PM |