6G Celicas Forums

ONE WORD:
BEAMS!!!!! shes finally back home where she belongs im so happy!!!!its been a looooong 3 weeks.

heres another pic i got to cleaning most of the ugly blue paint off



as for the idling prob well i took out the ISCV and cleaned it thanks to this thread
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conv...m-unstable.html
and well it worked but as my engine got warmer it began to idle a little once more but its not as loud as before it now idles between 1 and 2k and before it was 3 to 4k so it got semi fixxed but other than that car runs great everything works no problems and the car feels completely different than my 5s thats for sure

This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Nov 12, 2013 - 10:54 PM

great looking convertible

Thanks man ;D loving the car but the moment i'm having an issue its still idling and before i go about buying a part i first want to be sure that way i'm not carelessly spending and having the same issue any ideas and since i'm a bit new to this how do you go about grounding the tc pin do you use a OBDII Scanner i just want to see whats going bad that way i solve this issue and i've read countless threads and have seen a few other members have had similar issues. Here's a video demonstrating my current issue

ive cleaned the ISCV as well as the throttle and still nothing as far as buying that new valve i want to be sure if that's the culprit before i spend 245 at auto zone
need some insight

well i grounded the e1 and tc and got this any ideas??


This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Nov 14, 2013 - 6:52 PM

OBDII is long gone with the BEAMS. I see a code 21 for sure but the video cut out before the end of the second code.

http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/67398-To...or-(all-models)

21 is the O2 sensor, but that wouldn't kick the light on. Whatever the other code is is why your light is on and it's the one that needs to be addressed. It could be the MAF or the ISCV.

alright ill make another vid in a bit hopefully i can get some insight thanks for all the help man


This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Nov 14, 2013 - 8:18 PM

great progress on this. Daniel Richee is THE MAN when it comes to beams. glad you're getting everything sorted out slowly.

alright here we go. so sorry for the wait did a longer vid and uploading took a while from mobile anyways hope this one is better

The other code is 33- ISCV. Time to replace that sucker. A new one will be around $150, regardless of if you choose the Echo or Civic ISCV.

well thanks alot guys ill go and get that new iscv and install it hopefully itll resolve my problem and retest it again just to be safe hopefully its not bad wiring or my ecu but thanks once more richee you are a lifesaver

So i went today to auto zone and picked up the honda civic iscv as well as some hose clamps and bypass caps

then i got started

heres a pic of side by side nearly identical

installed it in less than five minutes i was pretty impressed. i made sure to disconnect the battery to be able to reset the ecu installed and connected battery and installed not a very good pic

then i crossed my fingers and started it up sorry for the brightness not sure if you can see it well but seems like it worked

took it for a test run and all seemed fine but it now it idles here for the most part after driving it for a bout a good 45 mins not sure if thats normal or its the aftermarket cams that i was supposedly told by my mechanic that i has


so then i go an check out the diagnosis box again and ground the tc pin and i still get the same codes both 21 and 33 i just changed the iscv and still getting code 33 not sure anymore.

Once your done driving tonight unhook your battery an GI e the key a few turns an let it set overnight just to make sure the ecu reset.

The chances your beams as aftermarket cams I think is 0%
Pretty sure they didn't make cams for it.
A vacuum leak could be causing high idle too

I agree with Kurt. The chance of having aftermarket cams is very, very slim. The BEAMS was Toyota's first engine to use VVT-i which made it difficult to make a good set of cams, not to mention the engine was only produced for three years so it was out of production before anybody really had a chance. A couple of people have made cams for it but they are VERY rare and VERY expensive.

I'd start checking wiring for the ISCV. Toyota doesn't widely use a code 33 so it's a difficult code to figure out. When it does show up it's usually related to the ISCV. I'd start looking for any shorts, cut/ broken wires, etc. The O2 sensor has little to no effect on the engine so it will store a code but never illuminate the CEL. The ISCV is definitely causing you problems, find the issue with that and you'll solve your idle issue. The ISCV also has a noticeable impact on how the motor revs and runs in gear so you will see an improvement while driving as well.

So i tried looking at the wires so far nothing i didnt encounter any shorts nor open wires then i mixed wires from the ISCV but CEL still showed up and the problem still hasnt been solved even with the new ISCV so that isnt the issue. checked fuses all are good. checked hoses no tears or cuts. im really stuck in a rut and i dont wanna give up and i dont want to have second thoughts but its bad driving her continuously and reving by herself out in the streets im trying to keep a low profile as it is

any other ideas of what may be causing it could it be my ECU?just wish i had a specialist near my area and help me out ill still continue researching and hopefully find a solution to this prob.

This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Nov 17, 2013 - 10:18 PM

Well solved the wiring problem with the ISCV took it to an expert and we took a look at the wiring diagram for the 3sge beams and luckily he read japanese so i was in luck
http://www.mr2.com/files/phoenix/Beams%20W...%20Japanese.jpg

He noticed that one of the wires from the iscv wasnt getting ground or something along those lines. So he took apart the harness soldered some wires retaped the mess and now car seems to work fine no more CEL now im wondering is this normal idle for the car or is it too low?


grounded the tc pin again and got this

so no more major codes anymore right?

but you fix one issue for another one to act up
now upon cold start i got to give it gas because it idles too low and continue doing so till the engine warms up then its at normal idle around 900 to 1000 rpm if i dont let it warm up upon cold start it pretty much dies even when in nuetral or even by pressing the brake.so not sure

i then tuned the throttle a bit and resetted the ecu then cleaned the maf as well. so upon cold start maybe high rev and it slowly go down once engine is warm.

sounds better than before and it doesnt drop below 300 as before so any ideas what could be the culprit now??

This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Nov 20, 2013 - 6:39 PM

wow thats amazing, i know denso does the electrics for most japanese automakers but i didn't know even the cast pieces were designed by denso

(the honda and toyota iscv being direct swap pretty much identical)

yea there pretty much identical only difference here is the extra nipple which you need to cover it up its a lot cheaper too comming from a honda than going and paying a crap load for a rare oem part from the beams.

The BEAMS idles at 750 when warm, higher before it warms up so I'd say it's fixed now. I can't see the video right now but what codes do you have at the moment? Just the O2 sensor?

none the CEL just flashes fast continuously so i take its normal now no major codes

Exactly, if it's a steady flashing then there are no codes. Time to sit back and enjoy the BEAMS.

Well ill do just that hahaha just now i got see how it goes upon cold start now ill post a vid later demonstrating later today