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> Winter storage outdoors
post Nov 29, 2013 - 8:33 PM
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gts4

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Need advice. I cannot store my Celica inside this winter. I have not driven it for 3 months as well. I want to keep it long term, but don't know what I should do for upkeep it. The rust will probably get worse which is fine but I don't know if I should overinflate the tires and disconnect the battery or do nothing. Any advice is appreciated. I want to consider getting cheap indoor storage as well. Thanks!
post Nov 30, 2013 - 8:07 PM
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drive it for a few days to get everything moving and working, air the tires up to their max sidewall pressure, then add 10lbs to that. Park the car ontop of a very large tarp, pull the battery out of the car completely and store it inside on a battery tender, wrap the car completely in the tarp then tie rope around the car side to side and front to back to keep the tarp sealed up tight.


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post Nov 30, 2013 - 8:11 PM
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post Nov 30, 2013 - 8:17 PM
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jordisonjr



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QUOTE (Bitter @ Nov 30, 2013 - 8:07 PM) *
drive it for a few days to get everything moving and working, air the tires up to their max sidewall pressure, then add 10lbs to that. Park the car ontop of a very large tarp, pull the battery out of the car completely and store it inside on a battery tender, wrap the car completely in the tarp then tie rope around the car side to side and front to back to keep the tarp sealed up tight.

Definitely DON'T wrap it in a tarp.
Here's my process of what I do for my winter storage (see post 2) and others in my city. http://toptierimports.com/index.php?topic=1585.0


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1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

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post Nov 30, 2013 - 8:32 PM
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QUOTE (jordisonjr @ Nov 30, 2013 - 7:17 PM) *
QUOTE (Bitter @ Nov 30, 2013 - 8:07 PM) *
drive it for a few days to get everything moving and working, air the tires up to their max sidewall pressure, then add 10lbs to that. Park the car ontop of a very large tarp, pull the battery out of the car completely and store it inside on a battery tender, wrap the car completely in the tarp then tie rope around the car side to side and front to back to keep the tarp sealed up tight.

Definitely DON'T wrap it in a tarp.
Here's my process of what I do for my winter storage (see post 2) and others in my city. http://toptierimports.com/index.php?topic=1585.0

That's how I store my car in an unheated barn, it keeps it dry. So dry my brakes don't even rust. Your thread even says 'vapor barrier under it' which would be the same as parking it on a tarp. I just complete the step by wrapping the tarp over the car. No mice get into the car because they can't climb up the tarp. No edges for them to chew on if you wrap it right. All I have in the spring is a nice clean dry rust free car. If you argue about the tarp scratching, I'll argue about tying the car up like BDSM bondage keeps the tarp from moving at all in the wind. All that water and ice freezing and thawing through the window seals, sunroof drains, etc. The constant UV exposure on the tires, the constant water assaulting and rusting the brakes. No no no. Pretend it's your dick and winter is a hooker, wrap that **** up!


Also, if wrapping is bad, explain how people store their $50,000 boats? rolleyes.gif


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post Nov 30, 2013 - 8:46 PM
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Box



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Here's an idea, move to the south. tongue.gif I'll just add to what others have said and say before you park it fill it with a few gallons of premium and some fuel stabilizer. Fuel loses about one R+M/2 octane per month, so by the time it's spring/summer it'll still be higher than regular.

This post has been edited by Box: Nov 30, 2013 - 8:49 PM


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post Dec 1, 2013 - 12:22 PM
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It's not as bad as you think, I store my Celica for months at a time with nothing but fresh 93 in the tank and have no issues in the spring time with starting it. Cold weather really retards the decomposition of fuel, it's hot summer weather and large temperature swings that decompose it and cause the more volatile compounds to evaporate off. Tank of premium won't hurt, but it's over kill. Midgrade or regular are fine unless you have a turbo or high compression engine. Neither the 7A or 5S have anything to worry about, the Toyota factory tune is really forgiving and safe.


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post Dec 1, 2013 - 12:26 PM
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Box



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I live in the land of eternal extreme temperature swings. If you have a bad gas cap or a leak, you'll find out about it living here. tongue.gif


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post Dec 1, 2013 - 7:01 PM
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Nah, Chicago has you beaten. In the spring and fall we swing from sunshine and 70's to 30's and snow in a day.


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post Dec 2, 2013 - 1:17 PM
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Box



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We do that aside from the snow, the humidity is what makes it really terrible.

OH MY GOD WE'RE OLD MEN TALKING ABOUT THE WEATHER.


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post Dec 2, 2013 - 9:18 PM
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My knee feels funny, must be a front coming through.


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post Dec 4, 2013 - 12:55 PM
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Special_Edy



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Once a month you should start the engine, turn the A/C on full blast and allow the engine to reach operating temperature.
post Dec 4, 2013 - 7:33 PM
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QUOTE (Special_Edy @ Dec 4, 2013 - 11:55 AM) *
Once a month you should start the engine, turn the A/C on full blast and allow the engine to reach operating temperature.

Nope. That will still puddle water in the exhaust and pollute the PCV system with moisture. If you're not going to drive it, don't run the engine.


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post Dec 5, 2013 - 1:52 PM
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QUOTE (Bitter @ Dec 4, 2013 - 7:33 PM) *
QUOTE (Special_Edy @ Dec 4, 2013 - 11:55 AM) *
Once a month you should start the engine, turn the A/C on full blast and allow the engine to reach operating temperature.

Nope. That will still puddle water in the exhaust and pollute the PCV system with moisture. If you're not going to drive it, don't run the engine.

This.


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-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!

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