6G Celicas Forums

Ok this is how I did it, some steps can be done in different orders. This is for information only and I am not responsible for any oops on your part.


Lets get started

Here is your engine bay, First remove the hood. Unplug the water line for the squirters and remove the (2) 12mm bolts on each side of the hood.









Jack the front of the car up and drain the oil.



Remove the battery







Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the cruise control actuator.



remove the plastic cover



Using 14mm wrenches, loosen the nuts securing the throttle cable





Unplug the cruise actuator



Now with the actuator in your hands, rotate the cable to remove it from the actuator



Unplug the radiator fans



Under the radiator, unscrew the plastic drain cock and let coolant pour out into a bucket



Unplug the Radiator temp sensor



Remove the radiator hoses









remove the (2) radiator clamps, each held in with a 12mm bolt



Unplug the other fan plug



Lift out the radiator





drain the transmission fluid, remove this bolt, its a 24mm



While that's draining, remove the stock airbox, first remove the snap clamps and the spiral clamp around the intake hose.



there are (3) 10mm bolts holding the airbox in. 2 are inside the box and the last one is outside by the fuel filter.







Remove this grounding cable, there are (2) 10mm bolts here and a single 12mm bolt on the transmission right next to the reverse switch





remove the fuse box cover



Push in the tabs to lift up the junction box (what i call it)





Unplug the harness from both sides. the white plug is a typical plug, push in the tab and lift. the large connector you have to push in the tab and rotate the lock down.







Unplug the igniter and resistor box



remove the diagnostic box





This is the EVAP purge VSV, I believe this is only on 99 Celicas. unplug it if you have it, follow the hose up to the intake manifold and unplug that too.



Loosen the other spiral clamp on the hose at the throttle body. its a 10mm head with a phillips screwdriver so either will work





This is the return fuel line, remove that and remove the fuel feed line at the filter. Its the 17mm Banjo bolt on the filter right next to the EVAP VSV



This is the MAP sensor, unplug it



This is the harness going through the firewall to the ECU. its held in by (2) 10mm nuts.



This line feeds the brake booster you can remove it from either side or both and just get it out of the way



This is a vapor filter for the MAP sensor. be careful removing the hose. you don't want to break off the nipple



Remove the passenger side foot trim. this will make it easier to pull the harness through and easier to get to the AC plug







This is the AC plug, don't forget to unplug it.



I forgot to mention these, remove the small clip to free the shifter cables, then use large pliers to get out the C clips that hold the cables in place.





Back to the ECU, unplug the ECU, Circuit Opening Relay, and the body harness.





Carefully lift out the harness



Ok lets get the alternator out of the way. First loosen the pivot bolt.



Remove the sideways bolt, that clamps the alternator in place, then take out the long tightening bolt.



remove the electrical connections







Alternator removed, Now lets get the AC compressor out of the way. First unplug it





There are (3) long 12mm bolts holding the compressor to the block. remove those and let the compressor down out of the way.









Not too much is left, by now the transmission should be drained, if you haven't done so already, put the drain plug back in. Now take off the wheels.







Remove the cotter pin and nut cover.





Stick a screwdriver in the rotor and brake caliper. this will hold it in place while removing the 30mm axle nut





Remove the ABS sensor if you have one, unclip the harness and get it out of the way





Remove the brake caliper. there are (2) 14mm bolts on the backside. once those are out remove the brake pads.



Smack the axle with a dead blow hammer. this will knock it out of the hub



Remove the (2) 19mm bolts from the hub to strut. pull the hub away and the axle will be free



With a friend holding the axle straight and rotating it, use a pry bar on the CV housing at the transmission and pop out the axle. It will come, you just need to find the sweet spot.







The passenger side is easier, remove the (2) 14mm bolts from the axle bearing carrier and the axle will slide right out



Spray some penetrating oil on the exhaust bolts. let that sit for a while and then remove the 3 bunts holding the downpipe to the header.



Remove the locking bolt on the power steering pump.



I should have circled it, loosen the pivot bolt on top of the power steering bolt, if you can get it out here, that's awesome, I had to jack the engine up to get clearance.



Here is another pic of the fuel return line unplugged and the feed line. if you haven't done so, remove them now.





Remove the 2 water lines for the heater.





Its hard to see here, but looking in through the drivers side wheel area, this is the rear engine mount bolt. its in the shadows. If its hard to get out, come back to it after removing the front mount. rock the engine and you should be able to pull it out.



Remove the Front engine mount, its a 17mm bolt through the mount. then remove the (2) 14mm bolts on the bottom. lift out the mount. then remove the bracket from the transmission.



Now get your hoist ready and hook up.



Remove the starter, first the 12mm nut for the hot feed, then the ground plug. there are (2) 14mm bolts on each side holding it on the transmission.



Unplug the reverse switch to get it out of the way.



Now free the slave cylinder. remove the 10mm bolt securing the hard line, the (2) 12mm bolts on the slave and the 10mm bolt in front of the transmission







Remove the drivers side engine mount. its a 14mm long bolt and (2) 14mm nuts and a short bolt. then remove the bracket from the transmission. Those are 14mm also







Remove the passenger side engine mount.











Start to lift the engine, here you can see the power steering bolt that gave me trouble. now you can pull it out and set the power steering pump aside



And out it comes







And finally the MONEY SHOT



This post has been edited by Smaay: Feb 27, 2014 - 6:07 PM

Here is a preview of whats to come

Great writeup! I'm surprised in all the years this forum has been around and the countless engine swaps done that this has never been made before.

Killer documentation. Thanks for taking the time, Smaay!

I just did this for the first time myself. With these pics an instructions it would have been easier no doubt.

Money shot...ummm yeah sure, that works too




Thanks for working so hard on this! I'm excited I get to learn so much in this project!

yup, great documentation. Everything was covered. So we need to sticky this. good job. Interesting way to remove the axle bolt. I used to put the wheel back and lower it. but it takes longer.

I am impressed thanks for covering the part I forgot to mention lol

Great write up.

That turbo manifold.... I am interdasted Who made it?

Fantastic write up. It's EXTREMELY helpful when things are pointed out and done step by step as you did here.

As for money shot... mine was in the background.

Supra has always and will always be my favorite car. Has been since I was 8 years old living in NYC and saw one drive by. Didn't know what it even was until I saw another after I had moved and 6 years had passed.
I'm not allowed to blow most of my recent inheritance on a '98 RSP, wife would kill me and I wouldn't be able to deal with having to sell it down the line... which would happen.

Baby Supra will have to do for now.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Dec 10, 2013 - 11:23 PM

Moar of the supra?

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...94&hl=supra

Oh damn! Niiice

I couldn't help but expect two more cylinders to be going back in. Very nice write-up with lots of information.

Next time I'll be sure I'm not "obstructing" the Supra view...or wearing a bikini smh!



Don't worry, the v6 will go in next once I'm done playing with the turbo

You mean the Pappa Celica has to do for now. The Supra line is based off the Celica.

sweet write up!!!

Well done dude

You had me at Money Shot.

this is the manifold from the kits i made for the 5S. However nobody else bought one since it never got finished. the turbo system is sound, its the tuning that a problem

Oh so that's one of the prototype kits. Nice.

I like the manifold. How much do you sell it for?