6G Celicas Forums

Hi Peeps. I'm sorry for always asking a lot of questions..So a while back my car started overheating, so I took it to the dealer (since I was 500 miles away from home). They told me that the head gasket blew. But they weren't going to replace the head gasket for me. But they offered to put in a rebuilt engine for $3000. So I just had it towed home and its been sitting there for about a month. So since it's finally winter break, I want to try and replace the head gasket myself. Anyways enough with the story. I've called a local machine shop and they said they would check for cracks, flatness and etc on the head for $110. So I'm thinking about ordering the parts:

1. Fel-Pro Headgasket Set for $93
2. Fel-Pro Head bolts for $15.

Are there any suggestions/ comments about the parts? Would these be suitable parts? Any tips or hints? This would be the largest project I've undertaken. My largest projects would be the clutch and timing belt. I've been looking in the forum, but can't find much about replacing a HG. So I'll just be following my Chilton manual as close as possible.

Also, is there always a cause for a head gasket to blow? Could it just deteriorate due to age/mileage? My car already has a new water pump and thermostat, so I was wondering if I should replace the radiator as well. Opinions?

I think if you've managed to replace a clutch in the past then a headgasket should be doable for you. If the felpro gasket isn't MLS then get a dealer gasket. As far as suggestions, I would definitelybuy a good torque wrench and torque angle gauge. Other than that Just make sure to keep dirt and stuff from falling into the cylinders and water jacket. Good luck

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 11, 2013 - 8:13 PM

DO NOT!!!! use that felpro ****! get an OEM gasket for a 99 celica. it will be a MLS gasket

-Pull the valve cover first, you need a 30mm axle socket you can rent at the parts store.
-Remove the Intake hose and the top of the airbox
-unplug the wires from the Throttle Body and egr valve
-remove the distributor
-Use a 17mm socket to unbolt the banjo bolt that connects the fuel hose to the fuel filter(behind the airbox)
-12mm wrench to pull the two bolts attaching the fuel rail to the head(with the valve cover out of the way). You will have the fuel return line to disconnect behind the charcoal canister. You can bend the metal line to get clearance then use needlenose pliers.
-Climb underneath and disconnect the intake, there are two nuts and 6 bolts. Also one large(20-something mm) nut attaches the EGR pipe to the head, I use a monkey wrench
-Pull that mofo intake out of the way
-Remove the alternator
-remove the 5 bolts holding the exhaust shield over the header.
-Now remove the nuts and bolts holding the exhaust to the block, dont forget the 3 down by the o2 sensor
you should be able to push the exhaust clear.
-loosen the powersteering pump and remove its drive belt.
-remove the crank pulley bolt, you may need an impact or you can wedge a breaker bar against something solid and pop the starter really quickly to bust the bolt loose.
-rent the harmonic balancer remover tool from the parts store and use it to pull that crank pulley
-place a jack under the oil pan, remove the front engine mount. Its easiest to undo the bolt and two nuts, lower the jack and then unbolt the two halves from the car/engine
-now you can remove the timing belt covers
- remove the timing belt by loosening the tensioner
-use a monkey wrench to hold the square part in the middle of the intake camshaft, then use a 14mm wrench to loosen the bolt holding the camshaft timing sprocket on, remove the sprocket.
-there is a recommended way to remove camshafts, just be sure you remove the exhaust first and pay attention to the load created by whichever two cylinders the cam lobes are forcing the valves open on. 1 or 2 camshaft bearing caps must be removed carefully to ensure the camshaft comes out straight based upon which lobes are pushing valves.
-same procedure remove the intake camshaft.
-remove the twelve(?) Head bolts from the head, under where the cams where. Start at the outsides and work towards the center, one quarter turn at a time till all are thumbloose. Now pull all the headbolts.
Remove the cylinder head.


I recommend changing the waterpump and timing belt at this time, they are both fairly cheap relative to the amount of labor.
The head most likely has some warpage from overheating. My local shop charges $35 to dip the head(makes it look brand new) and deck the head so its flat again. For $100+ you should be getting some kind of minor valve work or a pressure check included

If this is a 5sfe the OEM headgaskets were known to be defective and blow out. The replacement gasket will be updated so it no longer has this fault. There is nothing wrong with your car to cause this HG blowout unless you have been overheating it a lot.


good luck, let us know how it goes

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Dec 12, 2013 - 9:49 AM

Would you recommend any other brand then? OEM gasket is going to cost me $88 while aftermarket parts I can a whole head gasket set anywhere from $47 to $120.

Thanks for all the replies. Especially Special_Edy for writing a short and concise write up. I will certainly put a MLS gasket on. I do love OEM parts, but they always cost a arm and a leg. I saw a Victor Reinz MLS head gasket set for only $90, so I'll probably be using that unless anyone else tells me otherwise.

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/components/t...1-04-10765.html

its 56 bucks here

Dang, Thanks. I've only ever gotten OEM parts at the dealer. Thanks a ton!