6G Celicas Forums

dont think we got that stop burn.. but why not just rebuild a head when i allredy have a spare one .
But when i take the head of, do i have to use new bolts to fit it back or can i use the old ones? i know its strech bolts.


Anyways tnx for lots of awnsers you guys are awsome

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 7, 2014 - 4:46 PM

always use new bolts. at least that is the manufacturer recommendation they say the old bolts stretch and that could have been the first part of your problem.

If it's valve stem seals anyway and not rings. Probably won't hurt to piston soak anyway. Go ahead and do new head bolts, might as well do timing and water pump if you haven't in awhile.

I have a new timing belt for it aswell
was cheking on Auto data and it said No to change the head bolts... just tighen to 21 nm and then tighten 90° and then tighten 90° again...
Then i called the local toyota dealer and they sayd the same thing.. but i need to check if thay are damaged or stretched.
if thay are not its okey to use them again

If your valve stem seals were leaking it would puff out a cloud of smoke when you first start it, after it's been sitting for several hours or more. Piston rings leak while the engine is running.

Perform a cylinder leakdown test, all you need is a compression tester, disconnect the gauge from the hose and attach the hose to an air compressor hose.

yeah i have tools to do that just need the time... its so hot outside ist not funn working :S
but it will get done... i am curently working on rebuilding a head for that car

Valve stem seals can leak severely while running too, a la Mitsubishi 6G72. Leak down and compression test like Edy mentioned would be a good starting point though.

the problem is that it have been doing this for over a period of time... (10 month ish). so i think the rings are done. the previos owner dint know what he was doing, he just drove it like it was... i shuld have walked away from that deal whit that car, dint notice the smoke untill i was driving the car home after we signed a contract, Sold as it is. the car in it self looks strait and good.

What happens with the rings is that the oil control rings end up stuck to the piston and let oil into the combustion chamber. Piston soaking and running an oil flush usually frees them up enough to where the burn is very little if at all. More or less ALL 7A's do this, it's just a matter of the severity of the burning. So that means they've been running and driving for years this way, so it's not going to hurt anything outside of spark plugs and the emissions equipment. Trust me, do the soak and flush and change it out to 20W-50 and that should help significantly.

okey i might give that a try. how do i procead?
btw the engine has run 260000 km... just for some info

Do you have Seafoam available in stores? If so buy a bottle of Seafoam and remove the spark plugs and pour four ounces into each cylinder and let it drain into the crankcase. This can take a few hours, check with a flashlight to make sure it has drained. Then drive it for at least 30 minutes or up to 100 miles and then change the oil. Then fill up with 20W-50. There are harsher ways of flushing, but for the first time I'd go with Seafoam since it's milder.

In addition Id suggest rotating the engine, preferably by hand or else seafoam will spray out the sparkplug tubes, after it has had a chance to sit and then pouring more seafoam in. My typical piston ring soak is at least 24 hours with plenty of repourinv and turning the motor over. Gotta work it into all of the ring lands.

Yeah, I forgot to mention removing the EFI fuse and bumping it over a few times. By hand would be best if possible, I didn't want to dig for my bar so I used the starter. I think when I did mine I waited 24 hours just to be safe. Also a good time to do this is when you're about a quart low.

I wonder if carb cleaner would be good to use. Its cheaper than seafoam or marvel mystery oil and its much more caustic. You would definately have to change the oil immediately afterwards

Everything would probably flash rust like a son of a bitch. I'd step up to penetrating oil instead.

Even with the seafoam or MMO I'd recommend a capful of oil into each cylinder prior to firing it up.

MMO and Seafoam is used in oil and fuel, so I don't see how it'd hurt anything.

They are both solvents rather than lubricants. While there probably wont be any damage to the rings or cylinders in the seconds they are running "dry" on seafoam rather than oil, better to play it safe.

They're kind of both.

I tryed the piston soak and it dint work... so now i have started rebuilding a new engine I allready got most of the parts so dint se the reason why i shuldnt
Almost done whit the head, just some fine polish on the valves and im done