6G Celicas Forums

(yesterday and) today i...

lowered the car by 35mm
changed cv boots
changed shocks
changed brakes
changed anti roll bar linkages
refilled gearbox oil. there was literally about 300mil of pure black oil in it.
identified where the geabox is leaking from. the gasket/seal where the driveshaft and gearbox meet must have worn out. will replace soon.

Sadly as i was vacuum forming the polycarbonate sheet over the tail light to make the lens, the sheet managed to slip out on one edge and completely bend in half since it was no longer held on all sides. I had two sheets though, one for each lens. As I did the second one i found out my vacuum was not strong enough to vacuum the (about) 2.3mm polycarbonate sheet. I have a shop vac as my vacuum source. I suppose i will have to settle for something less strong such as duraplex or maybe even plexiglass (which i know will work, not sure about duraplex though but i think i can get a pretty good sized sheet for about $15 according to lower website).

So instead of spending the $20each on the polycarbonate sheets that i know now will not work (unless i spend extra money on a more powerful vacuum or use multiple vacuums), i think I'm going to just go with plexiglass or maybe try 2mm duraplex. If it works i will let you all know of my progress on my tail lights.

I received the larger LED rings today that all worked, but the smaller ones i have yet to receive. I should be getting my LED reverse lights, turn signals, and rear side markers by next week (i would have gotten them by tomorrow, but the hurricane is putting a hold to many things, such as the postal service, planes, etc.)

Good info, thanks for sharing and keep posting.
I am not sure plexiglass will work, I've always seen people use other materials.

Have you tried heating the poly even more?

Check this dude out, he has a few more videos on the subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnq4nGAcN_c

Ive seen many other set ups, the main issue I'm having now (I put the bent piece back in the oven and flattened it out on some aluminum sheet metal and then let it cool) and i tried once again to heat it up to the point where it bows in the center, but It cools very quickly and also creases occur much more often when it is heated that much. I made the vacuum forming set up i have specifically for these tail lights. Im going to try make another one since the tail lights are fairly thick and I'm using them as my mould. Im going to make a cut out in the vacuum box so the headlights can sink down into it (since i don't need a seal all the way around).

Im also thinking about instead of heating up the PC that hot and vacuum forming it (since i really only need a curved lens and it doesn't need a vacuum seal [especially since that will bring up a lot of surface imperfections]) i may just try to drape form it when its really hot.

Basically the same as vacuum forming except taking out the vacuum. I believe that by doing this it may allow me more time (it won't cool as fast and i can be more careful as i drape it so there won't be creases). I have decided that duraplex is the material I'm going to use since it is very impact resistant (not as strong as PC), but it is much more affordable especially since I'm going to be using quite a bit for testing.

If i manage to get a perfect lens for each tail light with the drape forming method, ill make a fiberglass mould and should be able to vacuum form more lens' for anyone who would like clear tail light lens' in the future.

AWESOME!!! I have been doing lots of research over the past 2 months on different methods that could be used to create clear replicas of the tail lenses. It is difficult because of the size and depth of them to find an appropriate technique. After looking at molds and resins and such I had decided that I was going to try just getting a clear sheet of acrylic (I hadn't investigated what type, but that Duraplex looks pretty good) and slowly heat it and gradually wrap it over the original just by hand. As you said, it doesn't need to be perfect, just a nice finish and good enough to seal. I just picked up a package from the post office today that has a spare set of JDM tail lights in it for me to practice with when I have some time off uni!

Please keep me updated on your progress!

Ill be sure to do so, but before wasting material, i actually tried to wrap it by hand. You'll need to be wearing new leather gloves and have some very heat resistant hands as it'll get really hot really fast. Its actually very difficult that way and i recommend just making a wooden frame (2x4s will work, they're cheap and the temperature won't do much to them) that fits around the tail light. then use some wing nuts and washers and a plywood frame to hold down the duraplex (you can also just use wood screws through the plywood and 2x4 but don't screw into the duraplex as it will probably crack. Then put the whole thing in the oven at around 330 degrees for probably around 6 minutes (watch it just to be sure). it will get wavy, then straighten out again, and then it will start drooping, as soon as it droops to the bottom of the 2x4 frame, remove it and lay it over your tail light. It should take the form fairly well. using leather gloves you can pat the form to make sure it takes the shape properly. Also, use clay to fill the tail light and use a butter knife to smooth it. (otherwise the plastic will dip into the compartments of the tail light as it cools.

Also, you don't need to remove the white protective plastic on the inside (the side you're putting on the tail light). This protects the sheet from the clay.

good luck and let me know your results!

Edit: Also i forgot to mention, if you want, you can actually sand down the ridges in the compartment of the tai lights so it is flat, then all you need to do is cut out the proper shape for the lens and it will bend over. Though cold forming isn't the best technique, it does have the best finish if your mould isn't perfectly smooth.

This post has been edited by Noahwhite2014: Aug 8, 2014 - 5:07 PM

Removed the S54-06A trans today from the SS-II. Was hoping to get into the gearbox, to install the lsd. But don't trust ourselves without the proper SST to get in there. Lucky I have a friend at Toyota who will help me out. Polyurethaned the new front & rear engine mounts aswell as the current trans mount. They turned out great so should give me a bit more support.


I'll try update my thread tomorrow

Today....I took my motor from this:



To this:



I got off to a late start so I ran out of daylight. So I guess the partial rebuild has begun. I will only be replacing the gaskets, new timing belt, water pump, oil pump etc. I don't plan on tearing down the bottom end. More to come....

MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE THAT COOLANT HOSE!
I've heard of people neglecting to do that and then one day it bursts on them and they have to take it all apart...
Just giving you a heads up so you don't run into that problem.
Even if it looks fine, just replace it with a new one.

Bought some ST205 Rear Strut End Caps the other day from a local guy. Paid $35 including shipping to my door. It arrived today and was installed within 2 minutes.

RoadRage also managed to score me the Tweeter speakers from a ZR model for a cool $10 (Local wrecker charges $50 PER speaker) and another friend has given me a full set of x4 6.5" speakers and tweeters for nothing.

Once I get all these things to my house (Hopefully before this weekend), I will be completely redoing the entire speaker setup in my car !

$8 actually but their card minimum was $10

Haha

And today I got some 5S Extractors, with high flow cat., and my JDM muffler arrived at the post office for me to pick up tomorrow

All the Toyota steering wheels are interchangeable right? Any opinions which looks wheel looks the best? Something a little more techy/modern looking? I have the 7gc atm lol I Want something with a ****load of buttons or with gloss black trim

Ah posted too soon. Found a nice 2012 yaris steering wheel lol

So you want a wheel with lots of buttons that won't do anything?

Sprayed wrinkle paint on the valve cover.

pics or this didn't happen

got a fidanza wheel.

you clown cd player controls! i wouldnt mind a door lock on it either or a start button lol can be wired pretty easily anyway.


whats that? google is failing to show me anything lol

new yaris wheel

This post has been edited by MisterRay: Aug 12, 2014 - 5:17 PM

oh it happened, just not on the engine in my car.
I'll put up pictures when I have the top end of my other engine back together.
Still working on a color scheme.