6G Celicas Forums

ok people i got this problem and all started when the rad got a hole in it so i stuck some rad weld/sealant just to get it home from work. then after i left the car for a month till i could afford a new oem rad the problem started and the engine started running rough when was cold and the temperature gauge went down when do over 30 plus engine runs rough till warms up to half way then runs perfect but as soon as i start speeding up it drops and drops real fast once get on the highway .but as soon as im stopped or going slow it clams back up and i see it at the bottom or near more than i see it at normal.
plus when cold it sounds like its coking and idles rough when cold like fluctuates be low 1k nearly stalling till settles when warms up and while its cold it judders like what happens when on and of the gas in first / kangarooing but not as bad but enough to know somethings not right but only under 3k then over it runs ok but still abit hesitant on power plus is over fueling as is drinking a lot more than it did .i like im down to 25-30 mpg

so i tried to diagnose it and replaced

the temp sensor with a non cheap one
cleaned up the cold start sensor and looking new
reset the ecu
checked all lines and no air leaks
checked for air in the rad 3 times
cleaned iscv and manifold
rad and pipes are warming up nicely like should so thermostat is working fine but will pull it and clean it up.

and even tho the car has warmed up i think its telling the ecu its still cold when the gauge goes down so dumps more fuel in thinking its cold and is hurting my pockets as is my daily

so im here asking for your help guys as im all most out of ideas

Sounds like a stuck open thermostat to me. Rad weld is also bad news.

Replace radiator and thermostat, use a dealer thermostat and seal. Dealer stat and seal is usually about as much as the parts store stuff but WAY better quality and has an air bleed built in so getting the air out after is much easier!

yep T'stat stuck open. probably the sealer gunk you put in there gunked it up

its had a brand new top oem spec rad. and yeah thanks guys will pull that this weekend and clean it up and test it and drain and flush any crap left in the system.and see how that goes

this thing is really small so it may warm up to temp even with the thermostat open, but if the temp goes right back down as soon as you get going down the road then the t'stat has to be stuck open.
I just had mine do the exact same thing.

yeah pulled it and its ****ed. completely broke apart and all lose just hanging in there . so called up some local auto shops and couldn't get a new one today so ordered one and should get it next week some point so for now will just run it with out it. and its not like it makes any difference

It hopefully won't hurt it for just a couple of weeks. But the computer is always adjusting things based on what coolant temperature it sees and that causes it to run a little funny. And I think for the integrity of the metal in the head it is better for a machine to heat up slowly and then remain at that temperature while it runs. And then when you turn it off it is allowed to cool slowly.
This is the kind of thing that won't hurt it the first couple of times you do it, but if the motor is continuously heats up, cools down, heats up, cools down while in operation sooner or later you might crack the head.
In large boilers like in a building or on a ship they are very particular about warming it up slowly and cooling it down slowly because of the way it stresses the metal if you do not. It might be fine for 20 years but one day the whole ship blows up because of a small crack in a boiler system.
Your car's probably not going to die if you do it for a couple of weeks but I wouldn't do it any longer than I really had to.
Also be sure and always use a new 0-ring every time you take it apart.

chronic over cooling will cause accelerated cylinder wear, excess carbon build up, egr system blockage, fouled plugs, and fuel dilution of the engine oil.