6G Celicas Forums

Lately it's been 32° degrees in the mornings
In these kind of temps what rpms should be ok

I'm getting almost 2k Rpms but lowers to 1.2k after warm

In the summer cold gets me 1.4k but lowers to .9k rpm after warm
Is this normal for me or not please help

My GT has trouble starting usually, because I need to hold the accelerator for like 5 seconds, but after that, on a cold start I usually idle around 500 rpm, then to 700 rpm.

Mine idles at 1500 cold start down to 800. 16F this morning.



Replace your coolant temp sensor with a brand new one or flush the radiator with prestone.

I recently replaced my radiator, and burped it for a good 20 minutes or so.

What would a coolant temp sensor have to do with starting the car and holding the accelerator? The car always idles beautifully and never has any problems starting when warm, only cold starts

Coolant temp sensor tells the ECU the temperature of the motor which effects the amount of fuel and air primarily at idle.

What Box said - the coolant temp sensor you have does not sense that the engine temp is cold, thus poor start-up idle.

This post has been edited by nics: Nov 19, 2014 - 9:02 AM

Also the problem could be in the connector/wires to the sensor itself.

You test the sensor with an ohmmeter, when cold it might read 10k-30k ohms, when hot it might be closer to 1k-5k ohms.
If the old connector looks like the wires are about to break off you should repair that. Just go to the salvage yard and clip off one with 4" of wire left on it so you can crimp it to your wires.

Also the throttle opening diaphragm should be set so it idles about 1300 with it all the way out. Disconnect the vacuum line on the diaphragm and adjust the set screw for that.

Really it should idle around 1200 when cold and come down to 800 as soon as it warms up just a bit.

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Nov 19, 2014 - 11:24 AM

wow, see this is why this forum is awesome! Thank you guys for the support of my car, I appreciate it. I have a question I would like to ask you before I buy.

So I called the local toyota dealership and they have a water temperature sensor for about $72 for the two pronged sensor. A bit high, so I found this on rockauto, a standard motor products temp sensor for about $17 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=1317503

Should I also pick up a sender? they are cheap but I don't really have to much funds to be spending. Obviously I will do anything to make my girl run as properly as she can, but you understand my dilemma. Another standard motor product sender for about $15 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=1317503

Should I just forget about aftermarket and just buy OEM from the dealership?

/edit:


I'm not quite sure how to open the diaphragm. If it has to do with the throttle body, would it better to have someone professionally do it for me? I really like to learn about my car and do things as much as I can on my own, but messing with the throttle opening sounds like I could potentially hurt my car by my own ignorance, however, if there is a tutorial or some type of guide for this I would be more than willing to attempt.

This post has been edited by HaysoosKreesto: Nov 19, 2014 - 1:21 PM

Mostly I agree but the throttle opening diaphragm is easy.
Its an aluminum colored accordion sort of thing on the throttle lever. There is a vacuum hose running from it to the throttle body, only 6" long. When the motor looses vacuum, like it were going to die, the diaphragm extends out and brings the throttle back up so it won't die.
So to test it you just unhook the vacuum line and see how high the idle is when its opened. There is a small set screw to adjust exactly where the idle sits when its opened.

Is this when the engine is already at temperature or cold?

With this it shouldn't matter what the engine temp is, this is a mechanical device that sort of helps out in case the motor starts to die. Its separate from the computer controlled IACV

The aftermarket sensor will be fine, price check on eBay and Amazon too. Usually RockAuto is the cheapest for name brand parts though, don't forget to Google the 5% off coupon too. The sender is what your temp gauge reads off of.

You know I definitely googled that 5% . Sorry Valve, I haven't tried your technique yet because I rushed to work before I was late, a dog died today .

It sounds like the sender is not a necessary buy because my temp gauge is pretty accurate. I will, however, be purchasing the tx40t as that was highly reviewed and potentially a game changer.

At daybreak I will try disconnecting the throttle body hose with the car running to see if the theory proves to be the cause of my issue. I noticed it is really difficult to get the hose off, do I just yank and twist and hope for the best?

6gc is still the greatest forum of all time, even all these years later, thank you all for the kind support!

the throttle opener shouldn't be your problem unless at some point in the past somebody messed with it. but it's real easy to check just to rule it out by unhooking the vacuum line on it.

So today I had time to change out the Coolant Temperature Sensor, very easy. The result? Engine does not hold idle at start-up, unless I hold the accelerator for about 5 seconds, and then it will turn out just fine at holding.

Here is a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pi5jqkEix44

You can really here my disappointment because I was SO ready for this to work.

Any thoughts as to what I should do next? I tried to remove the vacuum line from the throttle diaphragm, but I couldn't remove it. It felt like it was sealed on there with cement

that vacuum line shouldn't be glued on, it's just pushed onto the nipple on the throttle body. If you can see the throttle opener, is it open and holding the throttle plate open when your idle is too high? If you can't see it holding the throttle plate open then your problem is more likely in the Idle Air Control Valve or a vacuum leak.

Clean the IACV. Also, reset your ECU by disconecting the battery for 5mins.

Try this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsP2-HKz7vE
except yours should have four bolts on the throttle body, otherwise exactly like the Camry in the vid.

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Nov 23, 2014 - 3:21 PM

Would also check IACV. Another thing is leaking injectors will keep a car from starting and holding the accelerator pedal allows more air in to burn off the leaked fuel. Has to be something simple..

While I was attempting to do this before work today, I was attempting to remove some hose that I thought was in the way and shouldn't be. That's when it happened, boom complete failure of hose and it shattered into a couple pieces.

Going to have to go to the hardware store or o'reilly and get me some new hosing.

Also, there is one hose that is on the right side on the stock air piping that is right next to the throttle body that is ridiculously hard to get off, how the heck do I approach it? I think I might have already broken that too because I was really trying hard to get the damn thing off so I can remove the air piping and get right to the throttle body.

/edit: I got this picture from a tutorial thread on 6gc, sorry it's not exactly perfect but



Imagine on the other side of the air piping, there is a hose and a small clamp holding that hose in, I cannot for the sake of my car get it off. I ALMOST pulled my knife on it, but for obvious reasons didn't.

This post has been edited by HaysoosKreesto: Dec 1, 2014 - 2:18 AM