6G Celicas Forums

Only if it's yellow.

I'm beginning to understand the preconceptions with domestic, older in particular, cars. They're too simple, so then every idiot with a pair of vice grips and a screwdriver can **** them up. I'm not sure what's worse, ****ing ricers or ****ing rednecks.

Interesting. I'd imagine there might be a similar list for cars like the 240SX, 280ZX, and RX-7. Once in awhile you'd see a V8 MKIII Supra, but these days it's probably not as likely. I guess it just all depends on what exactly you want to do with your swap, each incarnation seems to have its merits for the most part. An all aluminum V6 with 200+ horsepower probably makes a really good compliment to the Miata as it's an improvement in all aspects; power, weight, and balance. I think a 200-250hp V6 Miata would be a blast.

http://www.miata.net/news/v6.html there you go.

Kind of odd it gained so much weight. I guess it just depends on how you go about it, and which engine and trans combo etc... you go with. Theoretically changing nothing else an all aluminum V6 shouldn't really weigh anymore, and possibly less, than a cast iron I4 with an aluminum head as that's more or less the case of the 5S and 1MZ. Then again the 1.6/1.8 Mazda B6ZE/BP probably has more emphasis on being light, despite the iron block, than the 2.2 5S. Still it makes for some interesting possibilities with a chart of weights and power to come up with the best ratio.

considering how big the duratec V6 is though, and it's got a pretty stout crank in it too. They're a great very robust engine with great torque all over for a 3.0, I think one of the better 3.0 V6 engines around.

The Nissan VQ30DE is a good 3.0 V6, my brother had a combined 500K+ miles between a '95 and '98 Maxima. Despite any oil sludge problems the 1MZ is good provided it was properly maintained, as I've lost count of all of the Toyota vehicles in the immediate family that had them. The Duratec is a good engine, seems like there are plenty of Taurus/Sable running about with them. Outside of that I start to draw a blank with a 3.0 V6 specifically. The Buick 3.8 was a good engine, but it's obviously not a 3.0 though.

3.8 wasn't that good. Long lived as long as the intake gaskets are taken care of, decent power, but not an efficient engine at all.

Random thought, if E85 would ever take off to where it was considerably cheaper and was actually easily obtainable here it'd offset a lot of my desire for fuel injection conversion. It wouldn't take anything at all to convert, just remove what little rubber is in the system. The carb is some 150+ cfm larger than what it really should be, so probably wouldn't have to rejet. You'd think with all of the "flex fuel" vehicles out there it'd be more commonplace.

They got 19/30 in the usual uses like the Regal and Grad Prix etc... The Taurus/Sable was 17/27, Camry 19/27, and the Maxima 21/28. All with the automatic, only the Camry and Maxima have the rare option of a manual that added 1 mpg. So I don't see how it's not efficient at all.

So I'm sitting here looking at rims for the Firebird, and there really doesn't seem to be many choices in the 17"+ range. I know what you're thinking(OMGERD BOX LOOKING FOR BIGGER RIMS), but the wheel diameter is 27.4 inches. So even with an 18" rim, there's 4.7 inches of sidewall. Of course most people go to the third/fourth gen wheel diameter of 25.6 inches, but I'd want to stay with the original diameter. I think I'd like a 17" for sure, as then there's 5.2 inches of sidewall. This way it gives the illusion of the rim being not as big for one, but keeps from having to recalculate speedo gears. Just enough to reduce the enormous amount of sidewall flex. Stationary I can push the car back and forth a fair amount and just watch the sidewall jiggle. 6.2 inches of sidewall for the win. Hell, even a 19" would have 4.2 inches of sidewall which is almost as much as the Miata with a 14" rim, just to give an idea. I'd really like an O.E. rim to help reduce the cost, but it'd seem 16" is the biggest 0 offset 5-4.75" made. Of course there are plenty of larger O.E. 5-4.75" rims thanks to the Corvette, Camaro, etc... but they're 30-40mm offset, so it'd require a fairly large spacer to work, that and the more modern flush rim face really doesn't go with the car. It definitely needs a dished rim, where as the third gen could go either way really. Year One has the 17" snowflake reproductions, but they're $899 plus whatever shipping is and center caps add a couple hundred more.

Really I'm kind of on the border of resto-modding and pro-touring as far as the direction I want to go with the car. I really like the idea of modernizing the suspension, brakes, seats, chassis, and drive-train. Then still have the old school vibe and looks. I've thought about somehow mounting front seats from a 6th/7th gen Celica, or those from a Corvette. Something nice and supportive, since the original seats are in dire need of replacement anyway. I still have my old set of Celica seats I could use for experimentation. That and the original seats are only two-way...and not having an adjustable back isn't going to work for me at all. Just so many things I want to do to make it exactly how I want it, which I guess makes for a nice change for once. I've thought about it off and on, and I'd probably never find another one in the shape it is for the price, for what I paid most people are asking for a beat-up roller, and I need to try and remember that when I get frustrated with all of the things that're wrong or not up to my standards. Sure it'd be a lot easier to start with a third/fourth gen, as a lot of things I want to do are mostly retro-fitting from the newer generations, but they're not the exact car I've always wanted. I need to decide if I want another Miata or not for sure, as then I can sell all of the parts I've pulled that aren't needed for a track car to put towards a more feasible daily. Really I'd like a S13 fastback since it's a pretty practical car, but sadly I've yet to see a nice one that isn't an automatic or some low miles one owner on eBay they want an asinine amount for. Hell, even a S14 would be ok but the same issue. Anyhow, I guess that's enough rambling for one night.

I lied somewhat, after spending the last three hours looking at various rims and in particular pictures of second gens with 17's and 18's with an overall 27.4"(give or take) wheel diameter I'll go with a 17x8 or 17x9 most likely. Even with the 18's still having 4.7" of sidewall, the 17's with the extra half inch of sidewall and an inch less rim just look right to me. The 18's aren't bad actually, I just like the proportions of the 17's more. Plus it also means snowflakes if I want to buy brand new rims, and it seems more of the other upsized vintage rims stop at 17" unless you go with custom order and spending a decent amount more... Either way it'll be good improvement over the 15x7 Rally II rims on it now, not only sidewall flex but more performance oriented tire choices as well.

Decent enough picture to give an idea, the tire I'd run is a little narrower and taller though. Not too much to make a notable visual difference, but meh.

http://www.club3g.com/forum/members-rides/...-67-camaro.html

Nice Camaro build to help inspire you. Skip to the end if you want spoilers.

You is kitteh. That is all I gathered from the thread. Damn... $50K+ and 4-5 years later, still not done. Though from what I've seen on Barrett Jackson lately the first gen cars are bringing pretty solid money whether all original or resto-modded. I'd like to do something that extensive, but I'm pretty much limited to what can be done out in the yard and with occasional lift access. I found a totaled LT-1 T-56 car somewhere... would be a perfect donour. Though if going to go through the trouble of a MPFI engine swap, might as well go with the LS series. I need to get around to making a list of things I want/need to do to it.

Well he did get married and have some kids in the between years too so....you've got a leg up on him there.

Somewhere in there he said something about having it done for the wedding and New Year's at the latest, then at the end I saw the date on the last post. I'll probably be married before the time I finish the car how I want to, I work at such a slow pace with these kinds of things lately. Mostly changing my mind every time I turn around is to blame, but half of the time I just don't feel like messing with things. I still need to get around to cleaning out the car, I did finally wipe down the surprisingly crack-free dash the other day to protect it. Still trying to find some nice black O.E. style valve covers to get a nice PCV setup going and replace the gaudy chrome covers and lousy breather caps, that should finish up the engine for the time being.

Got to thinking earlier, I wonder how much it would cost for a licensed body shop to throw on some matching panels and straighten out the section of the unibody in order to get a rebuilt title for the Miata. From what I've been reading it has to be "returned to its previous condition", but it has to be done by a licensed rebuilder in order to get the rebuilt title. Also do they have to do all of the work, or can I do all of it except for the hood maybe. Who's to say that wasn't all there was to it anyway? Suppose I'll call the shop I originally planned to do the work before insurance totaled it and will find out. It still runs and drives straight, so sadly purely cosmetics totaled an otherwise perfectly fine car. From what I've seen on CL lately it might be worthwhile. There was one identical to mine but it had a little less miles and was still a clean title, but it had been hit in the rear at some point as the rear bumper wasn't flush with the quarters. They wanted $3,200 for it... I couldn't help but roll my eyes seeing as I paid $2,100 for mine in the middle of Miata Summer Fever last year...

I doubt if any shop will sign off on your work. At this point once the car has been totaled by the insurance company the car isn't worth much even with a salvage/rebuilt title. Mazda made so may Miata's that you may be better off buying another bare chassis with a clean title and starting from there. Honestly unless this car has sentimental value financially it isn't worth rebuilding in my opinion.