6G Celicas Forums

well the engine is in. i need a few more -6 A/N fittings to finish the fuel lines. I set the intercooler on and it looks like the stock hood isnt gonna clear. My ignorance is showing, is this true? with the top mount intercooler the hood wont clear?

is there an aftermarket CF hood that does the job? Im starting to lean towards FMIC on this project as well.

From what I've seen you have to use the ST-205 hood to clear the TMIC. There is an aftermarket carbon fiber hood that's done in the GT-Four style, but is fitted for the regular bumper, it should work if it's identical aside from where it meets the bumper cover. Honestly if it were me for what it'd cost for the hood you can do a FMIC and you'll gain a little performance thanks to reduced intake temps.

Also you can get a black intercooler and go with the sleeper look if you so desire.

I ran into the same problem, yes you can close your stock hood over the top mount intercooler, but once you start driving and you open your hood afterwards, your top mounts gonna be pretty scratched up, it will be rubbing against your hood the entire time which is not a good thing, this just gave me an excuse to do the gt-four conversion lol

thanks for the info guys. Im leaning more towards FMIC. im sure I could sell off the TMIC and brackets to recoup the cost in parts. Plus I still need a heat exchanger and water pump if I run the WTA.

I added 1 inch spacers to the hinges of my gt hood and trimmed the webbing back. Looked fine and closed fine. No need for a gt4 hood

This post has been edited by enderswift: May 31, 2015 - 10:48 AM

what does that look like in the back? pics please

interesting.. you don't have any heat issue?

We did the same on Stef's car when the 3sgte was in it.
Same thing - trimmed the bracing under the hood and spacers to raise the hood a bit in the back (not a fan of that look). We also pulled out the rubber trim between the hood and cowl and that made a good difference with heat escaping.

pics please.

Like Dustin says, the rear gap actually helps vent heat

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jun 1, 2015 - 11:11 PM

Huh... who knew?

thats not too bad looking. I think we can get away with that for awhile

ok gurus, having a problem. engine will not start. it sputters like its trying to but just wont start. I have spark at the plugs. I believe im getting fuel, however when i took the plugs out they were not very wet.

I built this harness pretty much from scratch, i did take the resistor box out of the loop and im using high impedance top feed injectors. so the wiring for injectors is like a stock GT. constant power on one leg and the ECU grounds the other.

i did a compression test and got 140 across the board. seems a bit low. i checked my cam timing and its dead on.

Have you tried starting with the throttle open, could be the IACV screwing with you. Only other things I'd think to test is the MAP and fuel pressure. I'm sure you've already checked things like fuses, relays, and firing order.

Cranking pressure seems a little low, but since it's consistent it shouldn't be causing issues.

i figured it out. turned out to be bad wiring to the distributor. I also had 2 sticking injectors. once those were fixed, its all up and running. got some new questions now.

this vacuum line i have in a loop, what does it go to?



this nipple on the intercooler, where does it go?


these 2 nipples on the BOV, where to they go?



im still getting code 54. i followed the guide on the above website, however that guide is intended to be done at the plug to the water pump. I did the work at the ECU pins. Im starting to think I need to do it as if I installed a 205 setup in a 185. I need to add a relay and do the other diagram. right now i have nothing in pin C 22 (INT) does the ECU want to see a load on that as if its tripping the relay?

i also have the intercooler level sensor grounded. from what i have read if you have the full harness, you just unplug the sensor and short the pins in the plug so this should be the same thing.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jun 12, 2015 - 10:26 PM

I think i need to do this to defeat code 54 at the ECU connections

The nipped at the charge cooler is for the ac idle up valve. That's an aftermarket bov, so it's tough to say exactly what the vacuum connections should be. I would just figure it out through trial and error. I'm pretty sure you need a specific resistor at the level sensor

thats the OEM BOV. maybe because my engine is a WRC?

the gtfours website says to just bridge the coolant level, so so just grounding it should do the job, according to the drawings.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jun 13, 2015 - 9:40 AM

Just Googled it. You are correct about the bov. I'm surprised Toyota changed something like that. Can't think of any benefit for doing so

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jun 13, 2015 - 11:12 AM

Didn't the WRC cars have anti-lag? Could have something to do with that.