6G Celicas Forums

Box??? Has a brother???

Where did you purchase the axles? When I did the transmission swap in 2013 the DS axle had to be stretched, visibly by the boots, in order for the splines to show and nut to tighten. Apparently Autozone/Advance/O'Reilly's/NAPA/FLAPS only stock a 5GC axle labeled as a 6GC unit, a few mm short. Only CarQuest seemed to have the appropriate OEM-type available.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jun 3, 2015 - 10:14 AM

The outers come from an 88 Camry V6

Yeps, I also have a half-brother and half-sister along with a step-sister.

Nice glad to hear that you got things figured out. I loved that transmission for FWD.

I want to drive a ST205 one of these days, but a swapped car like Ben's with the 3S-GTE and E153 intrigues me as well. I also want to drive a 1MZ and E153 swap too. I miss the seats and practicality of my Celica, that and it didn't get 12 mpg on 93.

Come to CSP next year, I'll have my ST165 there...which is basically an ST205 cause it has the drivetrain from one (minus the engine)...

I'd like to. Getting married this year so I can't make it this time.

Only if I have something that doesn't pass everything but a fuel pump.

Here are a few pictures from completing the E153 swap. I had to use spacers on my set up. I've used up all of my spare axles trying to fix vibration issues, and I think I finally have it right. The vibration was so bad that the bolts on my intermediate shaft bearing backed out, and that caused a **** LOAD of vibration. Good news is that the transmission didn't leak, and still drives great. Fingers crossed I didn't completely **** it up.
I used a 3/16ths spacer on my driver side because the axle would move in and out of the transmission input by 3/16ths of an inch. I used a 1/2 inch spacer on the passenger side because the axle was WWWAAAAAY over stretched without it.


This is a picture of the spacer inside of the MR2 Turbo intermediate shaft for the passenger side. I had to have this made by a local machine shop.

This is a picture of the Spec stage 3 clutch after it was installed. Stage three is a 6 puck, and still very streetable. I also inquired with Spec as to why the stage 2+ was more expensive than the stage 3 despite the stage 3 being able to hold 480lbftq versus the 2+ 450lbft.
The reason behind this is material cost. The stage 2+ has one side that is made of Kevlar.

Here is a picture of some girl that I know that just HAD to help install the clutch...If memory serves I think I'm marrying her later this year.

Drivetrain vibrations are never fun, hopefully you got it sorted out. So how many notches in your dash from Honda kills do you have now?

Speaking of expensive clutches my brother just did his on the Genesis to the sum of $800 just for the clutch kit from Competition Clutch. Of course that included a new single mass "lightweight" flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts, but jeez... I think his friction disc is kevlar too. At least it doesn't slip like the o.e. clutch I guess.

I've never had a problem with Spec. Comp and ACT are waaaay overpriced!

What outer axles did you use? The standard is mr2 turbo inners and st185 outers but that leads to the stretching and the need for spacers for a lowered car. I understand the solution to avoid the need for spacers is to substiture lexus e250 or 89?-93 camry outers, as they are half an inch longer.

I haven't been able to confirm this, and that it is a viable long term solution.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: Jun 13, 2015 - 7:06 PM

I am actually using 88 Camry v6 outers. But I'm also lowered.

Those are the ones. Still stretched and needed spacer?

I bought the tranny and axles from Toy. He was at stock ride height and didn't need a spacer at all, but on my set up I needed them.

Alright guru's. My 3s is having some slight hiccup's, and after the Facebook conversation yesterday concerning the fact that 6gc does STILL exist, I thought it important to post on here.

3 weeks ago I was driving to work and my check engine light came on. Code 52 for a knock sensor. I replaced said knock sensor with the ATS GM knock sensor. I no longer have a check engine light.

Symptoms I was having before and after.

Say you're cruising in 5th gear around 2500-3000 rpms, or 4th or 3rd. really doesn't matter. Say you are in a gear that you don't feel like shifting out of, but want to go ahead and hammer on for a little boost.
Between 3-4,000 rpms the car will hesitate. My AFR's will move from 14ish to 15ish. As soon as the car crosses the 4,000rpm threshold the AFR's will drop into the 11's or 12's, and boost properly all the way to red line.

My spark plugs are new, my dizzy cap is new, I cleaned contacts for my ignitor, and coil, I re-checked my timing, and even set my cam's back to zero (exhaust side was retarded 4 degrees), I checked/re-adjusted my TPS, checked engine grounds, and made sure there were no leaks or tears in my vacuum hose between MAP/FPR to intake manifold.

Any other suggestions guys??? These symptoms started maybe a month and a half ago.

Hmm, so when you floor it under load it's going lean and bogging... Perhaps there's a vacuum leak elsewhere like the intake manifold or throttle body, or somewhere in the intercooler piping, or maybe an exhaust leak around the turbo. Being it was fine at first and just showed up somewhat recently I'd double check anything that could loosen or blowout.

Ben I had a similar issue. I changed my o2 sensor and haven't had it since. primemr2.com sells 3rd Gen 02s

This^^^ One of the most over looked parts on the 3s swap. Although signs of going bad are slim, the benefits of replacement are great.