6G Celicas Forums

So I used a Solara e153 in my 2gr swap. All the syncro's are in decent shape, I know this cause when we installed the qauife we inspected them. I'm using a southbend endurance 2 clutch, so far it holds very well. Fluid is redline mt-90, I may switch to redline LWSP. So far the up shifting is ok, but heel toe downshifts are very very notchy, for example at a current event I did I was downshifting for a corner, it just didn't want to go in, well I needed the gear so crunch grind into gear it went as a forced it. I didn't like that, its not enjoyable to know I have to destroy they syncros every time I downshift. I want to fix this problem.

Does anyone with the e153 have their transmission downshift like this? And I'm talking about when you really abuse the setup. Cause on the street I can ease into it and its ok.

I may also try this http://racingstrong.com/?p=236 But don't feel like taking the transmission off just to do this washer trick.


The 2gr has a very good powerband, it feels like it has even more torque in 3rd gear than my 3sge redtop in 2nd.



This post has been edited by rdyzz: Jun 12, 2015 - 8:56 AM

Are you using 205 shifter cables ?
Pedal have a low release point ? Do you have to put pedal all the way to the floor when you have to shift ?
Have you tried adjusting the pedal ?
Worn slave ? can it push that pressure plate enough ?
Maybe an extended push rod ?

I'm using the s54 cables, but I made a completely new bracket for it that puts the cable in the middle of its travel. I think the pedal might be about 1" off the floor, but I had to max out my adjustment to make it like that. When I had the pedal adjustment set like it was for the s54 it wouldn't even go into gear. I got the extended rod, but after reading a bit on it i'm not sure i'm going to use it anymore. Since all it does is preload the clutch.

Eventually when I have money saved again I may get the Camry/Solara shift cables and bracket, I had to budget on some stuff since the swap was adding up so quickly.

The two things i'm going to try for sure is LWSP fluid and the spacing of the pivoting fork for the release bearing.

Well I should ask, can you guys that have the e153 shift it hard and beat on it like in racing/track situations?

This post has been edited by rdyzz: Jun 12, 2015 - 9:40 AM

I switched to ST205 cables in my 3MZ swap using a E153. I also am using a TWM short shifter so its a tad notchy. But i have no problems shifting through the gears and I didnt have to do any pedal adjustment. original slave and master

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jul 13, 2015 - 2:36 PM

Learn to rev-match.

/thread




Learn to rev-match.

/thread

Been tracking since 2005, I would hope I'm able to do it by now lol. Besides its one of those deals where you brake for a corner, heel toe rev-match downshift to a lower gear for corner exit, its not going... not going... F it I need it in a lower gear now, force it. Thats what I mean by the grinding happening. In the past my s54 did this no problem. When I track my car I don't baby it, I build it with the intention i'm going to beat on it. This is why I choose an e153, otherwise I would have just saved the money from buying it and installing a qauife in it. would have been easier just keeping my s54 which already had one in it.

This post has been edited by rdyzz: Jun 12, 2015 - 10:04 PM

I was going to put in some more helpful advice in afterwards, but the site died after hitting the post button.

The MT-90 should be good since it's GL-4 in the proper weight. Some people have luck using things like Synchromesh when their S54 and C60 start grinding third, but it's pretty much the equivalent of 5W-30 in viscosity. I'd look into using the ST205 shift cables first, and then if that doesn't get it for some reason start playing with different fluids.

Oh wow, I originally replied at like 4:00 and it just now posted. How weird.

Thanks I'll give the cables a try when I have the money for it. Roughly $50 for bracket and $200 per cable is kinda steep at the moment. I don't know if I wanna mix Ams oil syncromesh anymore, I did it to my c52 in the past as a 50% mix and I notice it kinda foamed up the fluid when I removed the transmission. Whether or not it was bad I don't know.

I just thought maybe some people also had experience with the redline LWSP on here, since on the mr2 site a certain amount of people seem to say it worked wonders for them. Some of them even say they had it for extended periods of as long as 15 yrs with no ill effect except for better shifting.

C52 that was it, C60 was 7th gen. I ended up using Brad Penn 80W-90 as it was the only conventional GL-4 I could find, at a later date I pulled a quart for some Synchromesh to thin it out a little but then I ended up selling it out of blue shortly after. If the MR2 owners are using the LWSP to good effect then you should be ok. Worst case scenario you spend a small fortune on gear oils I suppose.

You might have clutch drag that is causing the dog teeth in your trans to block you out of gear. You can check by shifting into first at a standstill and reving to at least 6000 while the pedal is pushed in. If the car tries to creep forward while the pedal is pushed in then you have drag. You can also push in the pedal and very slowly shift into reverse. If you hear gears softly clashing it means the input shaft is still spinning. It's definitely not something you want to ignore because it will toast your synchro in no time

If its a cable isssue, test it with the car off, and see how it shifts, if it shifts smooth while
Its off then cables r ok, if its only when its on, then im
Sure its something else, possibly internal transmission or clutch issues.
For exmaple
My cables arent great but u feel it when its off the slight clicking or notching, so i know they r worn.

I wouldn't think cables are your issue since your swap is in an AE92, not a 6gc. If you managed to make the other cables work then I'd guess that you have something else going on but anything is possible.

Also, pics of the 2GR swap or GTFO!

Honestly I had bad luck with mt-90... It's 15$ a bottle too. I tried it on my mr2 and it was FAR worse shifting than syncomesh. I was grinding in 2nd 3rd and 5th with mt-90 3 days later I took it out... Put syncomesh and have zero issues. I'd try swapping transmission fluid.. I think I paid 6$ a bottle at advanced auto for my syncomesh. If you order online its cheaper use code trt30 as a discount code and just pick it up in store that codes good till end of the year if I recall right and its good for 30% off orders 50$ or more so buy some oil filters or whatever and you'll basically get fluid for free... Walmart is cheaper for actual oil tho.. I buy all my mobile 1 oil filters with this code haha. Ordered 10 last month just to have on stand by!

Oh yeah, I had forgotten he swapped a Corolla and not a Celica. In that case I'd double check that the clutch is disengaging properly as already mentioned and look into fluids if that doesn't do it.

Posted this elsewhere but thought I'd post it here. Testing out the gopro my wife bought me. I will probably need to reopen up the transmission this winter and put in some new 2nd and 3rd gear syncros. Gonna upgrade the front to 245/45/16 too, maybe this will help with corner exit grip.

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I'm so jealous.....2gr.......lol.