6G Celicas Forums

Yeah I had thought about getting a SC400 and converting it but I know me and I just didn't want to f*** with it, if anything dropping a 1UZ into a MKIII Supra with a blown 7M would've been more to my liking but again didn't want to f*** with it. It all worked out though, found my Firebird that's exactly how I'd want one and I've been happy with it for the most part.

I never really cared for the gs series. The interior felt cramped. I like my land yachts lol

Did somebody say land yachting?


Ehh, bought a cold air intake for the Firebird so that's exciting.

Im all about land yachts haha Nice purchase. Anything else in the works?

If MagnaFlow would ever make and restock the muffler I'm wanting to use I'd have the exhaust redone since the factory muffler is just too quiet, which is a crime to humanity and tears at my soul. I have been looking around for 17's but everything is either stock 4th gen F-body or C4 and C5 Corvette rims or generic Torque Thrust style rims, so it's just all 5-spokes really. Ehh possibly lowering springs along with control arm relocators and an adjustable panhard bar, and a MGW short shifter. Need to finish the sound system too. Slowly but surely I spose.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 14, 2016 - 3:40 PM

Ordered a Mantello Royale cigar humidifier box for my cigars today. Should be in on Monday, seasoned, and ready to be used by about Wednesday. I'm excited. Beats the zip-loc bags I've been using for them lately. First box, so let's see how this goes.

So fancy, the fanciest thing I do is drink Cognac. You should totally smoke a cigar while driving the Supra.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 15, 2016 - 1:15 AM

Washed both cars, missed some spots on the Mazda, oh well.

Speaking of need to wash mine this weekend, for a while the pollen was so bad I had given up aside from blasting it off with the hose before going somewhere.

Searched in vain for 17" 5x120.65 rims that aren't 5-spokes for the millionth time. So far the only thing I've really found are C4 sawblades:

I kind of like them, though I think it's more to the fact they're not "yet another 5-spoke" than how they look themselves. I suppose in anthracite or black they would work ok.

I did a thing:



I finally got around to updating my out-dated factory subwoofer. My factory "5x7" sub was blown the day I got the car, but from what I've read/been told, I wasn't missing much. So in the mean time, a friend of mine lent me his wife's 8" woofer that was originally for her old Mini Cooper. Finally got enough dough to upgrade e'rythang. Picked up a used Wicked C.A.S. box from a friend of mine that houses 2 6.5" woofers & replaces the factory box and got a really good deal on a brand new pair of JL Audio 6W3s. Took me about 10 minutes to super glue e'rythang together and off I went. I do need to go back and upgrade my amp wire from the current 16ga going from the amp to the box for something bigger. Possibly a 12ga or a 10ga. Now I just need to find the time to tinker with amp settings to match these woofers and I should be good to go.

Very nice.

Run 10ga, buy welding cable from ebay. I get my 6ga cable that way and it's really cheap, real fine strand copper, well jacketed, and super super flexible like handling rope. It takes solder to tin the ends amazingly well too!

What amp? How many watts? What size box? What's it tuned to? How are they wired? etc etc.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 16, 2016 - 7:18 AM

I was just gonna see if any of my friends have some leftover speaker wires they're not using. lol

This is the box in question.

The amp I'm running is the JL Audio HD700/5. Box is untuned. I need to find some time to learn how to do that. current wiring is whatever my friend had set up in the box previously. from the single box connector, there's 2 sets of paired (what I think is) 10ga wiring that goes to each sub rather than running them in parallel(?). I will probably fix this some time in the near future, but for the time being, it seems to be working.

Wow they don't even list the air volume of the box. You need to know that to figure out what frequency they'll roll off at so you're not driving them into distortion trying to get them to play lower than they can in the box.

JL amps are great, some don't even care how the speakers are wired as long as it falls in their ohms range they'll put out rated power. Just make sure it's not wired as an 8 ohm load.
I don't see your amp though.
http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-amplifiers-hd

Whoops. it's an XD series. lol I always get that confused.

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd700-5v2-car-audio...mplifiers-98606

I have the older V1 amp. Works just as well. I'm not quite sure what the difference is between the V1 and V2 though.

I'll ask about the volume of the box. if not, i'll just fill it with water and see what I get. lol

Ok, so you need to wire those subs as a 2 ohm load to get the full 300W (150W each), https://www.mtx.com/library-wiring-diagrams

Speaking of subwoofers I need to figure out what to put into my quarter panels, from what I can find they're 6.5" 4-ohm DVC and the amp is 2-ohms but I was going to pull one out to double check as some posts were saying they're 2-ohm DVC and there is a set of wiring going to each coil. So who knows, of course I could say screw it and buy a small 2-channel amplifier and run whatever I want. I saw the JL Audio subwoofers you put into the Supra while I was browsing to see what was out there, they're definitely not cheap.

No one pays MSRP. My JL 300/2 cost about $200 refurb. $150 for my front pair of Kappa 5x7 in the Mazda and that amp was about $100 for the front set. Pioneer something. Celica Basslink was about $150 as well for the new one, I had gotten a used one for $75 but it has a bad auto sense turn on and something was burned on the board so I figured I should get a new one. I still have the old one too.

GM never ceases to amaze me, so for one what should've been a five minute job taking it out and putting it back in turned into over a half hour fiasco because instead of threading the sheet metal or welding in a nut they used flimsy clips that fall off once you take the speaker out... If that wasn't enough for some reason I have a SVC setup that was used in Camaros... *flips crap over and leaves*

Those clips are easy to replace and better than threading the sheet metal because you can replace a stripped clip easily. If you have remaining loose clips just give them a tap with the hammer to re-tension them. You need some U type speed nuts, amazon sells them, ebay sells them, the local autoparts sells them. My advice is to just spend the $30 and get an assortment tray of the U type in threaded and sheet metal type because they are useful for everything everywhere all the time.


Oh and got the dash cam installed in the Celica too, now it's easy to swap it between the two cars until I buy a second camera of the same kind later this year.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 16, 2016 - 6:19 PM

it's pretty much the same wiring as this, right?



I just wanted to make sure I was reading MTX's diagram correctly.

And box, yeah, they were pretty pricey. I was able to get them for $110 a piece through a buddy who's friends with an employee at a stereo shop.

My current set-up is this:

JVC single-din (Can't recall what the model is at the moment)
JL Audio C3-650 components in the doors
Hertz Audio HCX165 in the rear
2x JL Audio 6W3 Subs
JL Audio XD700/5 Amp

Currently, my amp isn't sending signal to the rear channels for whatever reason. I'm gonna fiddle with it later though, but for the time being, the front stage and the subs sound fantasmo.