6G Celicas Forums

Hi all!

New to the forum and decided to post up my wacky AT200. I only say wacky because it has an unconventional engine in it. A 4AFE as opposed to the 7AFE it should be. Other than that, pretty basic apart from the alloys. How much did it cost me? €700. With brand new NCT (vehicle road worthiness test)!

Here are some photos from when I first got it with some tiny mods a few months ago.





Of course, plenty to do, plenty of ideas yadi, yadi, yadi....

Main issues are time and money.

But I will keep on posting any updates I have with the car.

So far, here is the list of things I have done to the car.

- Interior foot well lighting mod (color changing for extra horses)
- Caska Android head unit with GPS module for maps
- Unknown make engine bay strut brace
- Kilen 40mm lowering springs
- Varis carbon fibre bonnet
- MTEC performance discs, grooved and dimpled with Mintex pads
- 25mm spacers 5x100 to 5x114.3
- SSP (no idea of model but sure they are fakes anyway) 17x7.5
- Custom catback. Straight through centre and back box with dual tips
- Jap import rear lights
- Jap import rear licence plate holder (painted matte black)

The fitted exhaust. Has a great deep burble to it.




Also have these Advans to put on but i need to refurbish them first. Not sure whether to paint the spokes black again or chrome them back to life... Thoughts? Maybe a different color?



Also a picture of the steering wheel i will be putting on

welcome! nice AT200.
I like all the mods you've done so far. keep us updated as you go.

Welcome! As far as the rims go it depends on rather or not they sanded the chrome before applying paint. The way it has peeled maybe you're lucky and they didn't. If so I'd remove the rest of the paint and polish them out. Otherwise to paint them properly is a real bear as you have to go through the chrome to get the paint to bond nicely.

Thanks guys!

Yeah I would imagine I would have to bring it back from polish. But I still can't decide on a good color. Also, they are 16"s, so the arches wont fill up well with the current lowering springs so I would most likely fail the shoe test and wouldnt look as nice

Still, I really like the alloys, they have character and I admit, will make the car look a bit off, but I like that

Another update on the build so far.

Stripped out the dashboard to install Endworks gorgeous cluster cover. But I plan on removing the bulbs and installing LED strips behind the clocks.

Question. I have a 12v wire that needs to be connected to the cluster so that when I turn on the main beams, the cluster lights up. As it stands, the cluster makes a loop from pin on A1 to another pin on A2. Do I have to complete the loop and just jockey back my wire onto the loop?

The reason I am doing this is because the LED strips are multi color and I can change the color with a remote (it's coolier...) I have tested the LEDs with the strips I have installed in my foot well and it works brilliant. The dash is much brighter and the color effects are awesome.

Check out Endworks job on the clocks

Before:


After:


In the car:


Also finally getting around to installing the steering wheel. Will do an update on the progress so far.

You and I have similar tastes, I have a flat black license bezel on the Celica as well and a Nardi Classic in the same color scheme in the MX-5.

Good luck with your car.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 10, 2016 - 4:59 PM

Cheers mate

But I might be giving the Nardi a miss. After putting it on, I finally realized how flimsy this chinese crap is... Well, some things anyway lol

Think I will save up for something genuine.

Speedo looks good.

Thanks again mate Looks great and really changes the cars interior!

My Celica's 4AFE is starting to go. I plan on replacing it with a 4AGE blacktop. I will be getting loom and ECU with the engine, butI think I will stick with the gearbox I have, which I think is the C52. Will that be an issue with the ECU or anything? Also, are all sensors on a 4AFE the same as the 4AGE? Is there difference in like air flow meter or map sensor on the engines?

Apologies from the noob questions. I know there are some people that have done the swap. I will continue to read through those also.

That seems best for something like this, maybe a cheaper genuine wheel would be better than a knockoff Nardi. I bought mine from jhpusa.com, they had a sale at the time, I'd keep an eye out as these are authentic.

For your swap question, I would PM member Smaay. Cheers!

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 27, 2016 - 10:47 AM

So I got my engine. Looks in good nick. I have taken off all the ancillaries/accessories and began to notice that this engine had an overhaul of some sort. Some of the gaskets looked fairly new. The clutch has plenty of meat on it (seller told me it was changed like 300kms ago). So overall rather happy. Having said that though. I still think I should get to the pistons and replace the rings just to be safe and while it's all out already. Seeing as my car doesn't have a/c, I will have to keep the a/c pump on for the belt to work on the power steering pump. Some bolts missing but nothing that would have caused major issues and one snapped bolt. May have to drill that out and retap (will look into options). This bolt just holds some of the piping around the throttle bodies. Few snaps of the engine. Sorry for the close ups, was using a fixed 70mm...

i dont see the ac pump, in the pics, but can you just figure out what cars without ac had, maybe a pulley or shorter belt. That should free weight. Look into it..

also, good luck on the swap.

Thanks for the input. Will most definitely try to see if I can find a shorter belt.

So this weekend, managed to get the flywheel off along with some other bits and pieces. The rocker cover has built up sludge on the inside ceiling of it. guessing someone didnt give the engine much love...

Other than that I didnt really get much done because I dont have the bolts to get the engine on the motor stand.

Anyone have any suggestions on that? M12 x 1.25 seem to be good but I am guessing they have to be some sort of extra strong bolts? Also long.

Had a look at the clutch that was installed on the engine and it looks like it does have only a few kms on it. But, I have a spare clutch I was gonna use on my 4afe. I noticed that they exactly the same size. Would that suggest that the previous owner was cheap and got a smaller 4afe clutch? think the 4age is meant to be 212 and 4afe is 200? Dont quote me on that though. Also, which is better? More dampenings springs on a clutch but smaller ones or big dampening springs but fewer? I have attached an image the 2 clutches. Any input is welcome as I am sort of winging everything I am doing right now...

Also, I have made markings on the cam gears and crank gear for timing and took pics. Should I need to do anything else before I take of the belt and continue with taking off cams, etc?

Been doing a lot of work on the engine when I have the time and tools. Managed to get the head off. Definitely looked like it was time to change the gaskets. Water had solidified and caused huge bumps on the gasket for the water cooling. after a hefty internal clean, I decided to put in the new King Racing crank bearings. Now I am playing the waiting game for my gasket set + headers to come in. Terribly impatient... Overall, very happy with the condition of the engine inside, only thing that bugs me is the water cooling ducts rustiness. Gonna have to flush a few times to clean off as much as possible. Also managed to clean up the block to head surface on the block itself ready for the 0.5mm gasket I am waiting on.

Anyways, here are the photos I grabbed.

After mixing up all of my lifters (shims never fell out thank god) with the valves, I managed to match up what I thought was the most ideal shim/lifter for valve. Whether or not the way I did it was correct, I dunno. But without buying new ones, couldn't see any other option. They are all undamaged and already having spent 2k, I am not looking to spend a whole lot more. Specially when the lifters and shims are totally perfect (from a visual perspective).

Anyway, valves have been cleaned.
Rear crank housing and oil pump have been prepped.
Bearings added to crank and pistons.
Pistons have been fitted with new rings and are back inside the block.
Sump cleaned and ready to be refitted.
ARP headbolts purchased and all gaskets have been delivered.

Thankfully, took next week off to get a lot of work done on the engine.
Have yet to:

Dremel + polish head (yes, DIY port and polish).
Prep ancillaries (clean of gunk and crappy paint).
Rebuild the head.
Final double checks for the surfaces of block and head (warpage currently almost < 0.05mm for block and almost < 0.1mm for cylinder head).

Good work!