6G Celicas Forums

It would be powdercoated matte black so easy upkeep!


Its called paint sealant. You should be able to find another brand that is widely distributed. Synthetic waxes may last longer than the Natural carnuba's too.


sitting real flush in the rear! When these 255 tires wear down I should be able to go back to 235 or 40's and it wont rub anymore







going to take a video of the racepak dash operation soon

Looks like it would take a track day thrashing well!

looking into an EMS for the motor now and building an engine harness from the ground up.

Grabbing a spare wire harness (Daniel you still got that grey top one?) and using it as a template of sorts and spooling out my own wire to make a good harness that hopefully resemble this when done

This will be a very long term project that I will be doing with the foresight of future upgrades so that all amenities will be there in the harness for whatever mods I plan to remove or add. I am excited for this because unlike re-doing the harness that I have on the car now, where I had a deadline to finish it, this I plan to take a whole lot of time to make damn sure I am getting everything correct.

I would also LIKE to (I am just beginning to research these but it is very apparent how beneficial they are, despite the cost to benefit ratio which is a ratio I dont like to abide by) look into a PDM (power distribution module) for the car.
Now this will really tickle my wiring fancy.

This would essentially be the "command center" for everything electronic in the vehicle.

Here is a basic description and diagram of its operation.

Power Distribution Modules (PDM) are designed to replace conventional relays, fuses and circuit breakers, simplifying wiring and reducing weight while increasing reliability.

They not only provide electronically switched power to various systems in the vehicle, but can also be programmed to make smart decisions while the vehicle is out on track. For example, they can restart devices automatically after a short, switch to a reserve pump if a main pump fails, systematically shut down devices if battery voltage drops, even regulate the water in a driver’s cool suit.

In addition to that the PDMs provide full diagnostic information, including output currents and error status, enabling teams to monitor the entire vehicle via telemetry.



I think I am beginning to enjoy building racecar stuff more than actually racing cars.



here are a couple pics I found of a fellow who is a motorsports electronics veteran who did up a rally AE86 with a black top BEAMS in it


link to post of pics: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthre...340&page=41

Oooh, tidiness and statistics.

It's nice to see Tigawoods still modding his 6GC and the car looks ****in fantastic! Keep it up man!

maybe I am transforming into a neat freak! MAYBE ILL BE ABLE TO GET A SEPARATE BATHROOM JUST FOR MYSELF!!!


yeah...itll probably be for a while longer too haha, Thanks man! Glad to see you still stopping around on the forums!

So some might know of the struggle I have been enduring the past 2 weeks. And I am SO close to getting it all together.

ARP studs....the biggest pain to put in these Dorman hubs
After ordering a set that was too large (I am keeping for use in the rear later on, they are for a IS300 but fit our OE Spec) I found a set for a Miata application (had to order 3 sets since they come in pack of 4)
My whole goal was not to have to take off the hub and either get studs pressed in or worst case scenario get the stud holes bored out. But as I found out last night, these Miata studs are way too close to the maximum spec that will fit in the stud hole and they need to be pressed in.
Now I have to remove both hubs and take them to get the studs pressed in. Not a fun feat while the car is sitting in the lot of my condo complex during a very rainy spring. A level garage would have been a bit more pleasant.

IS300 Stud vs Dorman OE Stud



Miata Stud vs Dorman OE Stud



attacked it from the front and the back



The farthest I was able to get the stud in without a press

Well a home press didnt work either. What a pain these have been, and now I had to do what I didnt want to do and take it to a shop to have it done.
Dropped off the hubs to a local performance shop and explained everything to them.
There is a slim chance that the stud holes will need to be widened but I hope not as that would cost a crap load more.


So for extended studs on these hubs....either dont do it or take them to a shop to have the stud holes re-bored for whatever stud you want or get these miata bolts shoved in. Pics coming soon

Hey man,

Read thread from top to bottom. I just got my 1997 Celica GT, and am about to start working on it. May I ask where you got the brake covers? Very nice car by the way.

Gah, what a pain.

jeez... thats crap!

Capped off the day with news from the shop saying that they could not get the studs in. Im not sure what method they used, I wasnt able to speak to a tech.
The service rep said that they didnt feel comfortable boring the stud hole out as it could cause damage to the structure of the hub....which.....COULD happen but that would be a longshot.

SO. I took back the hubs pressed the OE studs back in and drove the car. I am going to shop around for a Camry or another RAV4 hub that actually uses OE knurl specs so I can use the IS300 studs

Here is a pic of the one hole I and the shop were trying to press the ARP miata stud through. I guess .011" difference is a big deal in knurl diameters.
I still think it could have worked with a proper press setup and even possible removing the wheel hub from the hub to be able to mount it on the press better.


This post has been edited by Tigawoods: May 19, 2016 - 11:04 PM

now would be a good time to measure the offset of the rotor

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: May 19, 2016 - 11:10 PM

you mean back then it would have been a good time to measure the offset of that rotor.

I need to get a better caliper to get a more precise number. Dont worry I will get it.
Once I find a proper hub I will swap it all out and take it then

lol.... well just to document. I will sell all the rotors and brake on ebay soon..

Ah so no rush haha.



SO it seems like almost EVERY manufacturer (MOOG, Dorman, Dura Intl, WJB) that I contact for hubs (RAV4,Camry) use smaller knurled studs. SO, I will be getting another pair and having them bored to fit the studs

They're an OE-spec aftermarket parts supplier.... why don't they use OE-spec?!?!?!?
That infuriates me to no end! If you're not replicating every OE-spec, what are you even doing as a business... jeez.

What you said earlier about Doorman not only producing non-spec spindles, but KNOWING? And not doing a damn thing? Ugh.
It wouldn't even alter the production line at all to produce OE-spec stud holes... just a slight change to tooling! This is such a cheap mistake to fix. Toyota parts are expensive, but at least customers won't suffer from this buffoonery.

/rant

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: May 21, 2016 - 7:25 AM

well I had an idea yesterday and today I went out to work on that idea.

picked up a pair of hubs from the junkyard.
Originally I came across the perfect donor, a 1997 V6 Camry but one of the hubs had some broken splines.
I then found a 01 or 03 Solara. Now i didnt really do any research other than visually comparing it to the Camry hub, but there is only so much I can see with the hub pressed in. I will find out if it works this weekend. I did bring along one of my spacers and could confirm that is is 5x114.3 and the hub bore was 60.1
Anyways.


And the reason for all of this...the proper stud bore size.

woohoo!

i picked up one from a camry, and the bearing was different.