6G Celicas Forums

For those of you that track your car. What pads are u using. I was recommended ebc yellow stuff. But apparently they dont make any for the rears. They only make few toyota rears. Nothing that i think is compatible with the celica.

Planning on using yellow in the front and red in the back. Since the front is the one that makes more difference. Wanted to see what other guys are doing. Even with other cars.

Tried to start a decent conversation in the other place. Lol, i would have been better to talk about something else...

Had Ultimax all round and they were shlt. Now I have Yellows on the front, few days ago I ordered a set for the rear too. I can't report back from the track yet, but they are great with my very aggressive driving style, even now with them just at the front.

This post has been edited by The_enD: Apr 11, 2017 - 10:04 AM

Endless very good brake pads.
I went to them, very good.

Endless very good brake pads.
I went to them, very good.

The bigger issue is lack of brake cooling - I'd say it's a must if you intend to get serious about track days. I'm looking at adding porsche style brake cooling scoops rather than the more typical ductwork direct to rotor.

Here's my experience with my 99 5SFE Camry on track, so keep in mind that the car is few hundred lbs heavier. Avalon dual-piston caliper up front, 275mm disk.

Hawk HPS front: tons of dust, overheated and faded with high perf summer tires
No-name rears: overheated and disintegrated in one track weekend
EBC Yellow front: overheats and starts wearing quickly, but maintains performance with minimal fade. I killed a set in a weekend and they had the "sugar glazing" that's typical for overheated pads. Again, this is by my 6th and 7th track weekend, so I'm faster than I was at the beginning with above.
EBC Yellow rears (I have alalon rear calipers, 289 or 291mm rotor, the thinner 8 or 9mm one vs 10mm x 269 for stock Camry/Celica rear rotor): hold up well, wear well, will be keeping these. 3 or 4 track weekends, and less than a quarter of pad used up. They are hard on the rotor though - my rear rotors are kinda purple now. Regardless, these are my track rotors (I swap pads and rotors before track weekend)

I've heard that EBC yellows don't like heavier cars, so maybe they'll work better for Celica, but I'm skeptical. Apparently they work pretty well for Miatas, but that's 2000lbs vs ~2600lbs for Celi and ~3200lbs for Camry.

Of the racing pads that are available, only carbotech offers celica/avalon/camry pads (all same front). I'm looking into getting XP10 or XP8 to replace EBC yellows for front. Keeping yellows for rear though. Pagid, PFC, Fedoro don't offer anything, HAWK has nothing above HPS. I doubt StopTech Sports will last you beyond your initial few track days, though my understanding is they're much better than Hawk HPS. Maybe if you have brake cooling and don't go too crazy.

I use fresh valvoline dot3/4 fluid and have had no issues there or with the calipers. Had tried Wilwood DOT3, but found no benefit. Most important here is that the fluid is changed and bled properly before the event. Old fluid is #1 reason for boiling.

Hope this helps. Let us know what your experience is like.

This post has been edited by slavie: Apr 11, 2017 - 12:56 PM

yellows for the rear? do you have gt4? cant find rears in yellow

SLavie---- what ebc yellow rears are u using?

looking at EBC catalogue...

The Rear redstuff part number is DP3628C. and this fits a number of cars, surprisingly...

1990 - 1991 Lexus ES250 2.5 Rear Pair
1992 - 1996 Lexus ES300 3.0 Rear Pair
1997 - 1999 Lexus ES300 3.0 Rear Pair
1987 - 1991 Toyota Camry 2.0 Rear Pair
1987 - 1991 Toyota Camry 2.5 Rear Pair
1992 - 2001 Toyota Camry 2.2 Rear Pair
1992 - 1996 Toyota Camry 3.0 Rear Pair
1992 - 1996 Toyota Camry 3.0 (Wagon) Rear Pair
1997 - 1999 Toyota Camry 3.0 Rear Pair
2000 - 2001 Toyota Camry 2.4 (15'' Wheels) Rear Pair
1986 - 1991 Toyota Celica 2.0 Rear Pair
1990 - 1991 Toyota Celica 1.6 Rear Pair
1990 - 1993 Toyota Celica 2.2 Rear Pair
1990 - 1993 Toyota Celica 2.0 Turbo All-Trac Rear Pair
1992 - 1993 Toyota Celica 1.6 Rear Pair
1992 - 1998 Toyota Celica 2.0 Rear Pair
1994 - 1999 Toyota Celica 1.8 Rear Pair
1994 - 1999 Toyota Celica 2.2 Rear Pair

DP4628R is listed as yellow stuff for the lexus es300 and it should be same for celica... but its only listed for up to the 93 celica. lol

same dimensions 107 x 42 x 15

If ur just looking for pads, not like a brake upgrade like gt4 brakes or anything,
From my personal experience, on streets of willow, button willow raceway, mazda laguna seca,
I had no problems with stock gt rotors and porter field rs front and rear brake oads,
Endless is also good, but im using endless brake pads, forget the typec they have dozens,
I have st205 front and rear brake rotors and calipers, and endless pads, on stock rotors, when u yse
Suxh a n aggressive, brake pad, it eats the rotor end. Thats what i experienced,
So to keep my st205 rotors happy and salvageable, i tend to use the softer pad options,
But if i still had gt brakes, since they r cheap and can be purchased locally,
I would use an aggressive or heavy steeet brake pad. Only if u drive the car for track or spirited driving,
If this is ur daily, do not run aggresvive track pads, they r useless when cold, pretty much no brakes
On daily street driving

this is for track driving. I bit the bullet on the yellows, and ordered the rears for a celica 93. should be the same...

nah, no gt4 brakes. need something I can refurbish quick.

Yeah, st205

I imagined. this is the first time ill take the vert on a track. need to see what the 2gr can do. I did upgrade to double piston on the front.

If I need more stopping power I have some ideas.. but no gt4 brake upgrades, these rotors are hard to come by.

I believe I'm using DP41714R for rears, but, like I said, I have Gen1 Avalon brake setup.

The pad is rectangular rather than semi-circular for stock pad. But, it's listed as compatible, it fits, sweeps the whole rotor area, and it works, so I can't complain.

In addition to pads your fluid and rotors make a difference. If money is of no concern and you want the absolute best then plop down for Castrol SRF DOT 4 at $60 a litre, if you want something that's still really good but on a more conscientious budget then the Castrol Synthetic DOT 4 at $16 a litre is the way to go. Actually if you look on Amazon you can get a case of twelve 12 oz bottles for about $35, so a gallon for $35 is a bargain just have to deal with smaller containers. As far as rotors go in an off the shelf option the Centric High Carbon/Cryogenic rotors are some of the best out there and are a favourite for many that track and autocross their cars.

Also worth mentioning both Castrol brake fluids are formulated with all the additives and protectants to keep moisture from ruining your system, which is something a lot of other race fluids don't have. I.E. the Castrol stuff is streetable.

ive started to look into pads a bit as track days are nearing closer.

Carbotechs are expensive as hell!
The yellows are advertised as a Track/Street pad. Which is a bit disappointing. I figure (and it shows from a bunch of reviews) that making it a dual duty, it falls short of the performance offered by a dedicated track pad. For a novice who might not be braking too heavily their first couple track days it might do fine.
The break in procedure for them is also a bit lengthy

I'd say that's about accurate...

As far as EBC Yellow's break-in procedure - I followed it to the t, and the pad still misbehaved (other folks on the track told me I had smoke coming out my wheels in every breaking zone, and it wasn't the tires). A guy on track told me they like to be seriously heated up and left to cool over night (such as after a track session) and then start working correctly. I've found some truth to that (no more smoking with every brake application), but the pad still wore much too quickly in my Camry in my NASA HPDE2 driving - we're talking a set of pads per weekend, and I was hoping for more at ~$100 per axle. Again, just my experience.
Should be fine if you're just starting out though. Oh, and I seem to recall them squealing a good bit, so be prepared if you're thinking of keeping these for daily driving.

Yea, carbotech is ~ $240.

This post has been edited by slavie: Apr 16, 2017 - 12:34 AM

As I'm nearing my first track day (in the Supra though, not the Celica) I'm finding that 1.) track pads are giving me sticker shock, 2.) dual duty pads like the EBC Yellow Stuff will NOT do the job, and 3.) for me it will only be Carbotech XP10 or Porterfield R4. Expensive, yes, but I'm depending on these pads to stop me time after time after time, and I don't want to be questioning whether or not pads like the Hawk HP+ or Yellow Stuff will be able bring me from 140-50 one more time.

Granted, I will be in a 3,400 lb car that has much bigger brakes than a Celica (except those with the GT4 calipers,) and it has factory brake cooling, and I'll be doing a road race instead of autocross so I'll have some speed built up in several sections, but from the research I've done, the Porterfield R4's or Carbotech XP10's are my only options.

Again, small disclaimer, this is just what I've found will best suit my needs. Carbotech pads are a bit cheaper for my application.

Powerstop apparently has recently come out with a Track Day series of pads, the only feedback I could really find was from Corvettes doing HPDE events but it was favourable. I think they said the pads were about $100 a pair, so if they're made for your car it might be worth looking into. I was going to use Raybestos EHT for autocross, really haven't found anything for trackdays but I'll probably look into the Powerstop since I'll be putting on C5 brakes.

You and I shop for the same pads haha.

Raybestos EHT are great daily pads but I don't think they'd stand up to track use even in autocross. Stoptech sport or whatever they're calling them now would be better suited to that task, though they're not really a track pad either they do have a higher max temp and don't fade as they approach it. I've cooked mine pretty good a couple times and they work perfectly while cooking and then after cooking with no extra noises. Bedding them in is less than fun, heat till fully faded and repeat once more after cooling, repeat as needed to keep pad film on the rotors if driving gently.

I seem to recall seeing where the EHT were better for the street and since that's my biggest concern that's why I had decided on them. Didn't really plan on pushing it that hard until the C5 brakes were on.