6G Celicas Forums

Someone has money to burn, literally.

Richee That is one good looking car. Very good pictures. For sure candidate for the 2019 calendar.

You mean about the buffing and polishing compounds? Four of the six came with the buffer and really aren’t that good. An amateur detailer/weekend hobbyist that has never used a more expensive compound would be happy with them but the two 3M compounds I have are significantly better products. I really need to get some pads for my bigger buffer, it’s a much better buffer than my little Torq buffer.



Thanks! It cleans up for pictures but it’s got some flaws just like any 21 year old car. I’d like to pick up a set of new headlights and dash before they’re discontinued but I have a hard time justifying the price. At the same time, floor mats for these cars are $500+ these days and I know the headlights and dash will follow suit once they are fully discontinued. Those that have them can ask whatever price they want for them. Sad times for old Toyotas.


More record keeping than progress again, the odometer is just shy of 95,000 miles. Around 91,500, I changed the trans and diff fluid. Today, I changed them again as well as the engine oil. Although there was no real need to swap the fluids out, I’m prepping the car for the trip to Vegas next month and I put better fluids in it today.



Royal Purple Synchromax for the trans and Redline Shockproof for the diff. After trying Redline MT90 in the Celica’s trans, I’m sold on their products. It definitely lived up to the reputation. Of course, reading on Supraforums, Shockproof Heavy comes highly recommended for the diff. Not for any reason in particular that I’ve found, just that everyone recommends it. As for the trans, Redline MT90 contains too much shift seal additive that causes the seams to swell, so it’s no good for the V160. Toyota offers a V160 specific fluid but at $55 per pint, it’s simply too much money to be worthwhile for me. There’s nothing special about it, it’s just glorified ATF. Of course some diehard enthusiasts still swear that it’s the only option for this trans but for the rest of us, Synchromax works perfectly, arguably even better, for a fraction of the price. As for the engine oil, nothing special there. It was last changed in July 2016 and I’m still not up to my mileage to change it, but it’s been in the car for two years and I’m not making the trip to Vegas on old oil.

^^In b4 Box points out that changing trans and diff fluid after 3,500 miles is burning money.

Tomorrow I may go check out a set of new speakers for the rear. I have a JL amp powering a set of MB Quart speakers in the front, but still factory speakers running off of the head unit in the rear. A local place is having a sale so maybe I’ll pick something up, but not likely.

Is that RP any good? I have some MaxGear laying around but never used it because the stuff does not have a good rep for Miata trannies.

It’s supposed to be excellent in the V160. Smoother shifting and quieter (although the only way to make this Getrag any quieter is to go deaf.) I haven’t driven with it yet since I still have an intercooler pipe out of the car waiting on some paint to dry, but I have high hopes. I’ve heard negative things about RP in the past but Supra guys seem to swear by this stuff so I’ll give it a shot. I’m not familiar with Maxgear though. If Miata guys say it’s no good in the trans, they may very well be right, just the same as I can’t use Redline MT90 in the Supra’s trans but the S54 in the Celica loves it.

lemme know how that RP works for you. Cuz once I get my tranny rebuilt, i'm going to have to figure out a cheaper alternative to the V160 jizz juice.

I actually just got back from a short drive about an hour ago. Shifting is marginally smoother, but it’s such a narrow margin that it could easily only be in my head. However, the trans is actually much quieter despite my earlier claim of needing to go deaf in order to silence the trans. Only drove about two miles but so far I’m happy with it. Local Supra BBQ is coming up in a few weeks so I’ll put a few more miles on the car and get it up to highway speed, but the drive to Vegas will be the real test.

I love seeing updates from you. I LOVED the way RL Lightweight Shockproof felt in my C60 trans in my 02' GT-S. It made driving it in subfreezing temps MUCH more enjoyable.

A 50/50 blend of the OE Mercon ATF and LWSP resolved a lot of shifting issues when hot, the extra 'stick' of the LWSP helped the synchro's to grab and spin up so they'd work but didn't kill it from working in cold weather.

I meant burning the not so cheap not so expensive Continentals.

I hear not so great things about Royal Purple, mostly that it's overpriced for sub-par oils. As far as the V160 it's in the same boat as the T-56 in that they use ATF based fluids. GM actually came out with a "MTF" for it through a service bulletin, but it's just DEX-III with additives to make it work better in a manual transmission. It works really well in the T-56, so it probably will work really well for the V160. Best part is it's like $5 a quart instead of the nonsense some of these other fluids go for *cough* Toyota *cough*. The V160 is like the Borg Warner T-56 as you DO NOT want to use synthetics, at it'll degrade the paper liners on the synchronizers and definitely don't want to use anything GL-5 or with copious amounts of sulphur as it'll eat the brass synchronizers. Personally I'd use the GM MTF since it's ATF based but has additives to work inside of a manual transmission, it's inexpensive, and it won't cause any damage. Other options being mineral based "Synchro-Mesh" with friction modifiers, like the Valvoline version that's out now and is also fairly inexpensive.

When you have a $2,500 or so transmission and it's expensive to rebuild the last thing you want to do is ruin it with fluid choice. Personally I'm on the play it safe side and stick with what was originally used team, in the T-56 instance no one has ever had a problem using DEX-III or the modified GM MTF whereas others have had issues going to RP or some other synthetic and/or gear oil. I imagine the V160 is similar in that regard, being I don't have one I've not looked too far into it but it'd be worthwhile seeing what others have experienced.

Ah, I see where you mentioned the Supra people swear by the RP. I guess it should be ok then, but I personally wouldn't trust it.

This post has been edited by Box: Aug 14, 2018 - 12:15 AM

Well, shiiiittt... Glad I'm upgrading my synchros to carbon units in the V160.

I wish I could do actual updates, but at this point both cars are in a decent place so it’s more just posting to keep records. I have a handy book that I always log date, time, and maintenance performed, but never any pictures or discussion. I have always used Castrol 75W-90 in the Celica’s trans but after trying Redline MT90, I’m sold on their stuff.



Ahhh, the pictures, that’s right! I didn’t scroll back far enough. Don’t worry, no Contis were harmed in the making of those pictures. I’m not a fan of ruining brand new tires. Burnouts always wait until the end of tire life. Those photos were made with photographer trickery and voodoo, and no Photoshop. Chee La and Mai See are good at what they do.

As for the Royal Purple, I’ve heard it go two different ways for engine oil. I’ve heard people say it worked too well, to the point that it cleaned out dirt deposits in the engine and created leaks where there were no leaks before, and I’ve seen independent tests done where RP failed miserably. However, the V160 costs a little more than $2,500... just a little (2-4x as much) more than that... so when everyone found that Redline did not work well in the V160, a few people got together and sent several different oils out for an analysis. Using the overpriced Toyota stuff as the baseline, they found that RP was the best, followed by Toyota T-IV ATF, then Castrol Transmax. I was using Transmax and although I know it works and would never cause issues, the price on the trans is such that if there’s something better available, I feel more comfortable using that. I’ll continue to avoid using RP elsewhere though.



Im uPgRaDiNg tO CaRbOn SyNcHrOs

U MAD? LULZ you should do the same.

no more 3rd gear grinds pho me. debating if i wanna go RP after I get this POS rebuilt with the new forks and synchros, but i'm not a big fan of paying $50/qt for that overzealous ATF fluid Toyota calls V160 go-go juice.

Is the V160 really that expensive now? Geez, even more reason not to bork it. Suppose that's why everyone started using the CD009, even with the hassle of adapting you're way ahead cost wise.

With carbon synchronizers you don't have to worry about synthetics or GL-5, but being the the transmission was designed for what is more or less ATF you still wouldn't want to use anything thicker than around 5W-30 or so. If the RP hasn't caused any problems for anyone with a V160 then go with it, that or use the GM MTF as it's DEX-III with additives and friction modifiers for use in a manual trans. Ehh let's see, here it is: https://paceperformance.com/i-6485866-88861...ars-trucks.html Cheapest I can find it at the moment, perhaps cheaper on eBay. It'd be interesting to compare it to the Toyota V160 fluid though, since it's also more or less DEX-III/Toyota T-IV with additives and friction modifiers.

EVERYTHING relating to the MKIV Supra is expensive these days. I had my chances at a couple Supras that were kinda affordable and almost did it too. I could've just bought the damn thing, waited a few months and turn profit. lol

Well except for the 2JZ anyway, since so many other cars used it as well, or anything directly shared with the SC300. That aside yeah everything is just to a point of retarded. The Supra is a good car, but when you have the ultra affordable SC300 that the Supra itself is based off I can't fathom or justify their prices. The Supra is a liftback though, so there's that, and we know liftbacks are the best form of car.

a lot of people are doing the T56 transmission swaps now offered by Grannas Racing down in Aussie land. Not many who I know of do the CD009 swap. Those who have done it say they are going to, and then don't really report back with a whole lot of info. At least with the MK4 anyways.

A buddy of mine spent $10K to rebuild his V160 after he exploded it doing some rolling anti-lag pulls. He had to buy a spare broken transmission to scavenge discontinued parts off of it to build his. If I ever find myself at that point in life, I'd either commit seppuku or go T56. Whichever is easiest.

CD009s are cheap and can handle 600hp easy.

If I were going to build my GS, I'd drop one behind the UZ and boost it.

The V160 is a great trans but if I were to grenade mine tomorrow, I’d have a tough decision to make. Buy a used replacement for ~$6,000, have mine rebuilt by Jack’s Transmissions and hope nothing discontinued broke, or go T56. I like the V160 and the originality of the V160 in the Supra but the T56 has no shortage of parts. I was telling Jordan and Chris a few weeks ago that I met a guy with a T56 in his Supra and although I didn’t drive it, the shifter feel was blessed by the car gods. I really gotta get rid of my
‘97+ shifter.

Current project I’m working on is to get the audio system up to par. The standard route for installing a head unit bypasses the factory amp, which kills the factory sub (I mean “sub.” It’s a 5x7 speaker in the hatch.) I replaced that with a Hertz Audio speaker a while back but that’s where that project ended. This weekend I’m going to the junkyard to steal some plugs and wires out of a few cars so I can modify my harness and get the “sub” working again. I have a JL Audio amp powering the MB Quart front door speakers, head unit powering the stock rears, and the factory amp will be able to send all like 100 Watts it has to the Hertz “sub” in the trunk. The sub won’t do much but a tiny little bit of bass but it’ll help. Also looking at some cheap MB Quart speakers for the back seat which will also be powered by the JL amp just to even things out.