6G Celicas Forums

I think everyone might want to see it start more than Chee La at this point, we've been waiting in anticipation looking through the glass.

lets see.

air ------ check!

fuel --- kinda check... after few tries, have you removed the plugs, to see if they are wet, or smell like gas.

spark?

what makes the car spark? this is the quickest way to test your spark chee....,




crank sensor? is your timing off? check again, power to coils, power to injectors, sorry it sucks. but i bet its a ground you forgot to hook up, or its loose...

make sure the ecu pins are not bent, and make sure you did plug ecu

I am the king of suspense and drawing things out longer than needed, like an episode of Dragonball Z.

thanks Norberto, I'll grab one of those and check those things over.

crank & cam sensors are plugged in



EA1 wires are bridged and plug is in tight


ECU plugs are all in and tight


grounds and sensors behind engine are checked and all present/tight




I'm gonna check power to the COPs and injectors, plugs etc and then check timing again. Those are the only two things I would think it could be at this point.

That seems a little dangerous, no electrical tape or better soldering?

This post has been edited by TimeslideZ: Apr 17, 2019 - 3:07 PM

^ I was just about to do the same. There's a reason there's only two professional solder joints, either NASA or Western Union and that my friend is neither.

If it were me I'd Western Union splice the two wires of the harness together before doing a NASA splice between them and the wire of the plug. Then use some heat shrink. I'm OCD though, so your results may vary.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 17, 2019 - 3:47 PM

hahah. no that was just me opening it up to check because I'm losing my mind. (you can see the tape off to the right) It wasn't left exposed like that, I re-taped it tight afterwards.

That doesn't address the shoddy soldering. If it's just a glob of standard tin/lead solder between the wires you're losing a lot of electrical conductance versus straight copper, it's hard to tell from the picture if the wires are twisted together or if it's just a solder glob holding it all together. Used to you could get silver bearing solder from Radio Shack which comes in really thin spools, meant for doing electronics and is the only thing I use. A little better conductance with the added silver, and much easier to get a nice clean solder joint more importantly, though if you get the copper wires touching well before soldering conductance will be fine. YOU ARE BOTHERING MY OCD CHEE LA! *boards plane to Berlin, WI*

lol. don't worry. the wires are twisted and soldered throughout. it's a good hold.

Hell, if you board a plane and make it here to help me get this damn celi started, I'll take you down to Chicago for the meet this weekend. hahaha
I've given up on OCD for this car, just needs to run first then I'll tidy everything up.

Fair enough. Ha if I had the money to blow and had the energy to fly up there I'd try and help, sometimes a fresh perspective on something helps. All else fails I'll swap in a 350 even though that's not what you asked for.

so explain to me how you did the clutch start. BEcause i cant remember if the ECU needs to get a Start signal to start?

In the beams swap thread for the clutch start wiring, you move pin 18 of II2 to pin 17 of IJ1, I just moved it back.
basically, I used the auto neutral start path instead of the clutch start as they end up in the same places and then bridged the pins in the auto shifter wires pin 5 and 6.

that sound right? or did I just cut out the start signal by doing that? lol

Box just come to MN and buy mine. Then drive over to Cheela's to help him with his. Of course after that show him what's up with the V6 when y'all go down to Chicago.

lol. well right now my 7A is making more power than the BEAMS. and I didn't swap a BEAMS for big HP or anything. I just wanted a fun daily driver that I can rev to balls and back. I mean I have 30 min commute on empty country roads everyday.

Already tired of the V6? If it weren't for having to sell the Firebird and already having decided on a NB2 Miata to replace it I probably would, but I'd love to have it as a second car.

As far as the start signal that might be the issue, getting signal to crank but not to spark. At any rate it doesn't hurt to do it exactly as listed in the swap guide to make sure that's not it before banging your head against the wall any more than what you have.

Status?

Ha ha no, just joking about it. But I do hate not being to drive the car for nearly half the year.

I get that, though for different reasons.

Any Easter resurrection miracles?

I'll have to go up and hot wire it. If we knew what he was missing...fuel pressure, spark, or injector pulse then this would be easier to figure out. My gut guess is the circuit opening relay isn't being activated.

I'm ordering a spark tester and noid light so we'll see.
nope, no easter miracle, spent it with the 6gc family at the midwest meet.
Talking with them helped. I'll probalby PM them and bother them some more.
Was getting fuel all the way up the line to the rail but not sure if its making it through the injectors. I'll pull the spark plugs and check them too.

C opening relay runs fuel pump I think, so that's probably ok. Uhhhhhh is the cam or crank sensor connected?