6G Celicas Forums

How hard is it to replace my belts, and crank? can some one give me a step to step.

the timing belt isnt as hard as you think its more the proccess of realigning everything and getting everything back to where they should. ie the cams are facing the right was etc etc..

as for the crank why do you want to replace it. ive never done one or know anyone to but i wouldnt think itd be easy.

its easy! just remove engine, cylinder head, oil pan, pistons & rods, and then crank shaft.

lol do you mean the crank pulley or the acutal crank shaft?

I'm going to be doing my 90k maintenance (which includes Timing Belt) likely tomorrow during the day. I'm no mechanic by any means, but since this is a non-interference engine, if I get the timing off, I'm not too concerned, I can always go back in and change it.. would just be a pain in the ass. If anyone has some detailed instructions and precautions to take though, that would be greatly appreciated.

Replacing tomorrow:
-Automatic Transmission Filter
-Automatic Transmission Fluid
-Brake Fluid
-Timing Belt
-Spark Plugs
-Air Filter

...So any hints anyone wants to give me, or a step-by-step... y'know... would be nice. I have access to just about every common shop tool, so that's no concern.

-Brian

when replacing plugs, do these also: cap, rotor, and wires

and for an air filter get a k&N

As for the timing belt bring the #1 cylinder to TDC top dead center remove the timing belt cover and there should be two little dots above the cam gears line up the dots mark there places on the cam gears and the head then undo the tensioner and remove the belt. When you go to reassemble check all marks to make sure nothing has moved then put the belt on and reinstall the old decompressed tensioner or a new one will probably be easier. As for the crank there is no reason to change this unless the bearings are bad. Hope this helps

buy the damn book, timing is an easy thing to screw up

no its not. Just lossen the cap and turn, use timing gun

i think hes talking about making sure the cams are aligned and everything, which isnt hard if you dont touch them.

Well I purchased the Chilton's Manual as well (which will soon be for sale along with the car), but I haven't gotten to reading it yet--I'm picking up all of the parts from the store here in about 15 minutes. Thanks for the tips though, I'll be sure to let everyone know how it goes/provide pictures if I can.

-Brian

I changed mine last weekend, $38 for the belt from Toyota, its pretty easy, easier than my wife's Protege, allow several hours, and disregard Toyota's shop manual where it says to remove all the sprockets, the lower crank pulley is the only one that needs to be removed, you would only remove the rest of them if you were completely dis-assembling the motor or changing the seals behind them, ( I think they list those steps along with their special tools to discourage us from doing it ourselves ) inspect both idler pulleys and the water pump for leaking grease or water and roughness while turning, replace if needed.
If you dont have a manual, go to the public library and copy the procedure steps (and all related steps mentioned) from their Mitchells repair manuals
Steps in a nutshell:
1 remove Rt front wheel and splash shield
2 remove alternator and belt,
3 remove rt motor mount and bracket (these can be hard to get to, have a selection of 14mm wrenches and sockets) also need to support motor on jack, and you can jack the motor up or down a little to make it easier to reach certain bolts.
4 loosen p/s pump (2 bolts), and remove belt
5 align crank on TDC compression stroke and then remove crank pulley (need a puller - and maybe an impact wrench -see below) also should remove spark plugs to make it easier to turn over
6 remove upper and lower timing covers (10mm wrench & sockets) will also need to unclip wires or remove crank sensor with lower cover
7 loosen timing belt idler after checking timing marks ( I marked head and cam sprocket with a felt-tip b4 dis-assembling as the factory marks are kind of hard to see without a small mirror and lite)
change belt, following instructions for aligning and setting idler tension (very important) and re-assemble everything

This sounds easy, but be patient, some of the bolts are rather hard to get to, you can only turn them a short bit with every wrench stroke , just take your time ( and I didnt list the basic, obvious steps like disconnect the bat b4 removing alt, supporting car on stands etc...)
As for a puller, the crank pulley wasn't real tight, but dont pry it off, if you dont have a proper puller, you can improvise with a short piece of steel bar or something, a socket that will fit thru the pulley center and rest on the crank, and 2 6mm bolts approx 2-3 inches long. drill 2 holes in the bar to match the threaded holes in the pulley, set the proper size socket on the end of the crank, the steel bar on the socket and tighten the bolts , it should pop right off. other than that, and possibly an impact wrench for the crank pulley bolt, you dont really need any special tools. the manual shows a long tool that bolts to the pulley to hold it while you remove the crank pulley bolt. should also use a torque wrench on the crank bolt on assembly if you have one and can rig something to keep the motor from turning, maybe a longer hunk of steel bolted to the pulley with a hole for the socket, I just carefully used the impact gun to re-install.

This post has been edited by 97GTinKC: Nov 5, 2004 - 2:42 AM

Did you do the water pump at the same time ?

you NEED the manuals, if for no other reason . . the torque specs. If you don't torque your crank pulley correctly it'll come off, or of it's too tight cause problems. The hardest part is the crank pulley without the proper tools, everyone has their own secret. My buddy rests socket wrench from the pullet against the frame, then cranks the car over once, enough to loosen it. Works smarter not harder. On my crx I just held a scredriver in a tooth of the pulley itself, and then used all my might.

It's not difficult, but accuracy is extremly important. Your torque specs or timing bad, then you're toast. BGB is WELL worth the money, step by step walkthrough really helps.

I am doing that this winter, but I'm doing a head swap because my valve seals are gone, so I'm gonna pull the engine and do the clutch, head, timing belt and water pump all at once, so I won't have to again for 90K.

Dr.

No, I didn't replace the water pump, it still turned smoothly, no signs of leakage, and my car only has 59k miles,,,maybe next time, or the time after,,,