6G Celicas Forums

Alright I've decided to go down the 7AFTE route. I want to know all the upgrades to the internals and any other upgrades that would allow me to get 14-20 psi for racing if this is possible and around 8-10 for regular street driving. Also would someone describe what blueprinting the engine means and if this would help. Also is there any way to run perhaps a dry or wet shot of NO2 to increse hp or there no internal upgrades strong enough to allow boost and nitrous?

wow sumbody has HIIIIIIIIGH ambitions but thats great dude

no N2o for you though you'll get killed with the motor

what you neeed

is to
get a 4age head
create a 7agte hybrid motor

now

get custom piston with a cr of ruffly 8:1 or sumthing nice an low
get custom rods
maybe even bore the motor to oooh i dunno 83mm or so
port and polish the head
3 angle vavle job
255lph fuel pump
bigger fuel lines
bigger fuel injectors (turbo probe maybe)
3" engine back exhaust this includes header
intercooler
BOV
greddy profec

and hmmm bout i dunno maybe another grand or 2 in more stuff

LoL....

hey
i actually plan on eventually
doing everything i stated up there^^^
but the 1 thing i'm not sure i'll do is the head swap
kinda wanna retain the whole motor
push it to barely street legal
and get all i can outta it
and say wooot best 7afe on the planet that we know of!

There has been a few articles saying that even with the fe poor head design it is still very good for a turbo. I think im gunna go the same rout as you, but first do a basic stock rebuild from high milage, and then just turbo with FMI.

Yeah I dont want to do the head swap. What advantages would running an N02 cooled intercooler?

OK forgot to add if I do the upgrades listed above, but do not do the head swap what is the amount of boost I can use when I want to race?

how much would that stuff posted cost about? cuz i think its going ot be upgrade motor in spring/2005 work all summer maybe 2 jobs and then turbo fall of 2005

Yeah I already have a job doin yardwork and im goin on the jobsearch to work at a store or sumthin so I can get the money to get it done.

The things that are cool about doing the GE head swap:

You get access to both cams so you can tune them
You can use the 4AGZE low compression pistons
You can use the 20v head which work VERY well with a turbo

This post has been edited by raven_101: Feb 18, 2005 - 1:59 AM

Yeah, but doing the head swap adds a lot more money to spend and also adds a lot of problems to deal with such as new wiring.

if you want to push 14-20 psi

new rods
new pistons
head work ( I would swap )
hone or bore heck custom sleeves
ems piggy or stand alone
t3 super 60 or t3 t4
electric BC
manifold (log are ok but i would go custom)
there is most of the man stuff

head swap is not needed imo needless to say nik knows more on the subject
but you CAN achieve 12-14 easily and safely without a head swap you might even be able to reach 20
as i stated

get custom piston LOW CR <---must
get custom rods <---------------must
Bore to 83mm 84mm if your lucky--IMO a must
port and polish the head <------must
3 angle vavle job <--------------must
255lph fuel pump<---------------must
bigger fuel lines <-------------not neccassary
bigger fuel injectors <-----------must
intercooler <----------------------MUST
BOV <-----------------------------needed
greddy profec <------------------must ----this is your engine management system
3" downpipe back exhaust <---needed
custom header <-----------------must
T3/T04e turbo external wastegate <----must LOL
stage 3 clutch----------------------needed
rebuild tranny --------------------needed (titanium parts if you can find them)
boost/ air,fuel/ EGT/ oil pressure/ oil temp/ water temp -----all goood to have gauges
SYNTHETIC OIL------------------NEEDED

if you wanna go CRAZY
i might be on crack but
lighten crank
bore the throttle body
water injection
rework the intake manifold (bore or what ever they do to it)
heat wrap to wrap your intercooler piping and manifold (keeps temps down in the engine bay)
maybe port and polish the exhaust side of things on the motor


BE a GOOD kid say NO TO DRUGS SAY NO TO NOS
thats just a no no for this kind of motor/setup

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 19, 2005 - 12:22 AM

Everything playr mentioned looks good, but I suggest getting a wideband O2 setup. They're falling in price and will be WELL worth it for tuning. And on that subject, you should seriously look into a standalone EMS, especially if you do the head swap. You will have to do custom wiring for the EMS so the wiring issue won't be a problem

I eventually plan to build a very nice 7AGTE 20V turbo setup for an AE86.

or u could get a 3sgte for the same price and probably less effort then just put some better pistons in it and 15psi easily and ull be higher than 260hp

You should really really really NOT preach the gospel especially when you really don't have a clue what you're going on about.

First off... let's say your ultimate goal is to hit 20psi. You don't need to bore the block... and the MAX limits on a 7A block is 83mm. That is the MAXIMUM spec and beyond that you're compromising strength and your limbs. You don't need to port/polish the head, although it would be nice to change the flow patterns. With the FE head and forced induction... it's not about the ability to flow. It's about the flow pattern and the velocity... where it peaks, where it flattens, etc. This reflects directly back the torque band. You don't need to do a 3 angle cut... I'm afraid to even ask you player... if you even know what that is ... Fuel system upgrades are mandatory (pump, injectors). Bigger fuel lines... well... that sounds kinda funny... something someone who doesn't really know what he's talking about would say. Some sort of piggyback fuel controller or management system would also be mandatory, along with at least a 2 bar MAP sensor. The stock sensor is not gonna work at 20psi and the stock computer won't be able to read out the increased charged air. A 3" downpipe is not needed, but would be nice to have along with a larger diameter exhaust system. A custom header... or what we just say, a turbo manifold will be needed along with a turbo capable of spooling efficiently, 20 pounds of boost. A stage 3 clutch is not needed, but should be high on the list unless you like eating through clutches every few thousand miles. Rebuilding the tranny with "titanium" parts... heh. The general rule with titanium... don't make parts with titanium that "wear"... Titanium eats away at other metals and is not very comfortable around other metals. Hence why you don't see titanium engines and pistons and such in production cars. So in a tranny... umm... heh. A rebuilt tranny would be nice... but not needed if your current tranny is in good shape. The MAIN weakness and the biggest limiting factor... Rods and Pistons. The stock pistons can probably hold their own for a little while at 20psi so long as you run a good amount of fuel (slightly rich)... but don't plan on the long haul. Custom low-compression pistons and rods is pretty much mandatory if you wanna make this engine last.

Now for the "Crack"... which you do sound like you're on player...
Lightening the crank. Umm... not needed for a turbo set-up. Lightening the crank is risky business not to mention almost redundant in a f/i set-up because of way a turbo set-up works. Light crank, light fly, etc... reduces load and when extreme, can affect spool, which relys a lot of load. Water injection is a safety thing and would be nice to have... Modified throttle body... well... ehh... it only work if you port match the entire intake manifold. At that point... might as well get a completely different TB and manifold. ITBs anyone? Heat wrap isn't neccesary either... nor is "porting the exhaust side of things". That would be included with "Port and Polish"...

To close... as you all may know... I've singled out playr158 today as my annoyance. It's nice that he's doing his research, reading up on some of the more knowledgeable discussions... but don't be quick to pass it on if you don't know what it is. It may seem mean... but some people don't "get" it until it comes to this. For the most part... I think the original question is too general and too uninformed. There is a LOT of information out there to gather, and to ask such detailed questions without even knowing simple things is not worth the time to explain it... unless I'm annoyed or angry... tis why I barely respond to some of these questions anymore. For now... the information is what it is. I'm sorry playr for singling you out... but if you know you can't chew it... don't take such big bites brotha... ;]

Wow lots of info from you guys and some contradicting things being said, to kwanza and player since you both basically supplied the big lists of upgrades not to be rude or anything, but just wondering if any of you have a turboed 7afe? Info that you gave though is still appreciated and im just gonna have to decided which information will help me the most to get to my ultimate goal of 20 psi.

Engines all work on the same principle. Do you know what it takes to go turbo? FYI... most of the guys that have done it, I don't recall ever asking these sorts of questions. They do their research, they buy the parts, they set it up, and they work with what they have. They're the ones who supply the short answers... mine was only long because I was breaking down playr's post. Read the last sentence of that post... and consider yourself in the same catergory. All in all... it comes down to PISTONS, RODS, Turbo set-up, FUEL, and a way of controlling the fuel. That's all it is... and that's all I'm gonna answer. If you're really serious... that's all you *really* need to know.

FYI... I've set-up turbo cars before... never a 7AFE... but 22R, B18, K20A3, just to name a few. I'm mostly an n/a guy though...

I said I didnt care how long the information was and that I appreciated it and yes most people do know more about engines and turboing them and all that and good for them im just trying to learn a little at a time and get to that point some day. Im asking these questions cause the st aint like some honda where you can just buy all the **** you need and it bolts on all nice and easy. Hell everything basically has to be custom and since im not the engine expert I figure ill ask questions to the people who are apparntly you know some stuff and if im going to be goin for high boost I dont want to set up some ****ty weak internals and run a higher risk of destroying my engine which would put me further back than where im starting right now. And as for the whole last sentence thing about big bites and not being able to chew them and how you dont want to answer such questions then what is this section of the forum for? Are only the high and mighty people who "know" all the **** about engines to bag on the beginners and say to them how stupid the questions are and how research needs to be done and all that. I know research has to be done what do you think asking questions like these is. That is all.

People plan things... that's a given. To plan... they research. You may call it research... but really all you're doing is asking opinions. nik and myself are the only ones who gave you a straight answer. nik is currently a 7AFTE... just so you know... and he gave you the information you need... like myself. It's not like some big secret where we're holding back all sorts of juicy details and stuff... what is posted is all you really need to know. You say it yourself... "custom"... That makes the entire set-up a learning process. I'm sure when you have more specific questions, such as "where is the best place to tap oil lines?", "what cc injectors should I consider using?", "is my radiator gonna melt?", the "experts" will be more than happy to help.