6G Celicas Forums

The crankcase vent is not a vacuum, it releases exhaust gases from the crank case. If you read the posts that I linked to, you will see bill explain how the crankcase vent works.

The crankcase is not a vacuum... but the intake is. The air is getting SUCKED into the engine. The hoses connected to the intake are also gettting that 'suck'.

yep

Thats right but when you block that hose off or attach it to a bypass valve instead of the crankcase vent no extra air is getting sucked in.

What's your point? The PCV needs the vacuum or it will smoke like a chimney... there's nothing else to discuss.

we are saying that the pcv system, needs the help of the air in the intake to work correctly. when you throw a breather on there, the pcv is not getting sucked out like it should.

If you have the correct type of check valve, it is the best way to keep your crankcase under vacuum - of course, this really only works well on N/A carburated engines with no smog restrictions... (ie doesn't work on turbo cars or cars with an AFM or MAF)

On cars with an AFM or MAF, it is very important that the intake is a completely closed system - this includes the crankcase and any blow-by that comes out of the PCV system. This means no PCV breathers or anything like that.

-Charlie

guys, some help on a problem?

Car runs crappy when its in vaccum, but runs fine under boost?
any ideas? i replaced rotor, and coil, cap i bought wouldnt allow for my aftermarket cables...timing is on 10tdc....(this is the same problem as stated bfore as misfire under low rpm's)

can you tell us what "crappy" means?

the extreme case of misfire when I give it throttle until it hits boost:)

likes to try and turn off on me when moving from a stop..

did you see what happend to my car on the dyno when i didnt run NGK brk7e plugs? im willing to bet that those plugs you put in there are the wrong heat range and are causing the same problem. look at the 1st dyno sheet in my dyno thread. its shocking what the wrong plug can do on a turbo motor.

i put in the ngk's, and it ran crappier than the motorcrafts:S

mine were the part number playr158 gave me the 6 i think not 7...on the box it says v-power copper i think

i run the 6097's by ngk, iunno what heat range they are, but they're suggested.
btw, i'm 1jz, not 3s(inase someone goes to buy these based on me)

This post has been edited by Consynx: May 3, 2006 - 12:58 AM

mine are brk6e?

car misfires INCREDIBLY in vaccum, REALLy hard to turn on, and HARD to keep alive when cold...when driving EVERYTHING runs fine under boost, although, its not as fast as it should be....

need help guys, im completly drained of money from buying ignition parts(no returns no warrantieslol).that dont help for shi*

any ideas?

have you checked for boost leaks?

car runs good for days, some times it runs bad, i dont know what to do guys!

so i got bored today and decided to poke at the wiring in the car to see if the speedo will work using this diagram:




here it shows the 3 wires that go to the speedo from the speed sensor, theres wire 1 which is red/blue stripe, wire 2 is blue/black stripe and 3 is solid blue. At the sensor plug wires 1 and 2 were intact, and 3 was cut at the scene, for sum reason its blue (the way its supposed to be but after an inch into the harness its gray so i assume this is why it was cut, and a wire was spliced and routed into junction plug 3 behind the HVAC but infront of the ECU with a blue/white stripe wire, and the non plug side was left there. There was another side that was also cut in that area and T'd in somehow....

well, I first started to "fix" the mess at the 3 junctions by the ecu, so i got rid of the splice point and put blue/white and blue/white back together, then solid blue with its solid blue...so that the harness matched itself again, and after looking at the pic, it shows that wire 3 merges with a gray (i assume ground) at the gauge cluster circuit board, an there is a screw at that circuit path with a b next to it. So i got wire 3 directly from the speed sensor on the tranny and looped it on the screw....well long story putting everything back together, but in the end the speedo still didnt work......What did happen though is the i no longer get a CEL for speedsensor (code 52 i think), so no more CEL's but speedo still doesn't roll:(