6G Celicas Forums

Precautions: do not connect the wire to the battery terminal until the wire is securely connected to the amp(s)
make sure you have a fuse at the battery end of the wire
do not put the fuse in until you have the wire securely connected to the amp(s)

**disclaimer** use this guide at your own risk

Inside

-Open the driver side door
-Gently pull off the door step plastic peice (right next to the seat)
-Remove the kick panel, there is one plastic nut next to the foot rest by the pedal, take off the trim on the left, only the end thats connected to the kick panel.

Outside

-Jack the car on the driver side
-Remove the wheel
-Remove all the screws that hold the inner fender mudguard
-some are at the back and some at the edge of the fender
-unclip the part that holds the mudguard to the fender lip
-Pop the hood and stuff your wire here: (right by the fuse box next to the battery)



-Pull the mudguard down enough that you can see the big black wire loom and you're able put your hand in there. It's flexible enough to bend down.
(note: in the pict, i removed it completely, this is not necessary. If you try to remove it, you will encounter a problem with the screw holder where the mud flap is. If you really want to take the mudguard off, you will have to break those.)

- Reach to your left to find your wire and pull it all the way thru (leave some length to connect to the battery with a little bit of slack)

-On the right side you will find a grommet with a little nipple on it. Cut the nipple off.
-Stuff your wire in there, it will come out inside the car right where the kick panel was



-Pull it all the way through. Leave enough wire to zip tie it securely to the black wire loom inside the fender. (refer to pict above)

-At this point you can reassemble the mudguard (it goes inside the fender lip, you will have to tuck it back in)
-Put the wheel back on (don't forget to torque the lug nuts)
-Drop the car

Back Inside
-Pull off the carpet next to the seat to reveale the flat white box full of wires (take notice of the clips on the side of the box)
-Run your wire along that box and clip it into place using the clips on the white box.
(note: the clips can only be used for 4g or smaller. For bigger wires, cut the clips off and run it along the white box, the carpet will hold your wire in place. The pict shows a 0g wire with the clips cut off)



-Stuff your wire under the rear seat side panel
-Pull up on the bottom of the back seat (it needs some force). You can't remove the back seat but you can work with it loose.
-Find your wire and pull it all the way through
-At this point you can reassemble the kick panel, carpet and door step
-It's your choice to either pass the wire under the seat to the trunk or push it up and fish it out on the other side of the panel.
-Once that is done, put the seat back in it's place (the two little hooks goes into the clips on the edge of the floor of the seat) stomp on it to clip it back in place.

Install your amps securely and enjoy

(for suggestions, typos or any other questions, PM me)

This post has been edited by K-ESD: Jul 20, 2006 - 9:12 PM

i did my close to that except i ran mine through a hole in the firewall and then too the side of the drivers floor panel....seems to work for me

This post has been edited by Daftboy: Jul 19, 2006 - 11:24 AM

I know everyone wants to do things without having to cut or drill holes but, in my LHD, I drilled a hole in the left upper corner from the brake pedal through the firewall and it couldn't have been easier. Either use a grommet to seal around the cable or put silicone sealant around it like I did.

you know there is a spot in the engine bay...thats where I did it

sorta under the throttle body

I am fully aware of the billions of other ways to run the wire, this one is the right way and is as clean and neat as stock.
Not the easiest, thats for sure. If you want easy, just poke a hole thru the engine harness acordeon shaped grommet and stuff the wire through.
If you want a clean, reliable, proffesional install, this is the way.

That looks like a toughie lol. looks good though. someone should sticky this btw. Also is there any other way?

From the hood, into the back of the radio system? or near that area?

expect a lot of truble with the mudguard... steer clear from the mudflaps (dont waste hours on trying to get them off like i did - you cant). also you'll need strong hands and strong will with putting the mudguard back into its place.

props on the write up and all but I would think that running it through the mudguard would be more....idk less proffesional, since there is already a spot for wires to run through in the engine bay and into the car

...but once again there are many ways and this is just my opinion

The mudguard doesn't need to be removed completely, just enough to be able to get access to the loom inside the fender. It's relatively easy unless you plan on removing the mudguard. It does need a little bit of force to get it back in place tho.



Thanks
I guess it varies person to person what "proffesional" is.
To me it is cleanliness and mounting, pretty much anything that resembles stock assembly where every 3-8 inch of wire is clipped down. A wire out loosly in the engine bay just is just getho. Of course, i've seen people screwing down clips to hold the wire tightly and out of the way, I absolutely love those installs.

I don't see why running inside the fender would be unproffessional. Toyota designed the celica with a big fat loom of wires running exactly there and the fact that there's a nipple there kinda looks like it's made to be an optional entry point for a wire or wires, perfectly sealing it with the sleeve of the nipple, you can even add electrical tape just like toyota wraps all of it's wire looms and grommet. A big plus is that the fender entry hole is right next to the battery and the white box's side clips are just perfect for running the wire under the door step, unfortunenatly not for excessively big wire. The only place I haven't found anything stock made to hold it down is in the rear side panel and in the trunk.

but you're right, everyone has it's own oppinion. This is just my supporting argument for my oppinion

This post has been edited by K-ESD: Jul 20, 2006 - 9:11 PM

oh well thats probly my problem is that I have two 4 gauge wires and one 8 gauge so I needed a bigger space, but yea your right it would look alot cleaner your way.

Hi, i've got a RHD Jap import ST-202 (without mudguards), I live in UK and new to installing subs / wiring. I have a 1000w JBL amp and a 8 guage wiring kit. I am thinking of connecting the wire from the battery through to the 'big fat loom of wires' already there. Do you think this is the most straight forward way for the novice to install the wire? If you can - photo and indicate the best point of entry.

g'day san

if you look at the first post you should find two picts where the wire passes thru. one from the side of the battery to inside the fender and the other one from inside the fende to the kick panel location on your passenger side

Yes, I agree the easiest way (the jacking up and taking off the wheel is too much for the impatient noob) and I think looks just like a factory install, is to undo all the pvc sticky tape around the 'engine harness acordeon shaped grommet' and stuff the amp power wire through with all the other wires (then retape around grommet).
From the head unit, i fed the remote / RCA audio cables under the gear stick, under the central console / storage and then under the carpet, and finally under the back seat to the rear amp. No that's neat.

interesting way of running the wires. What i did with mine was run it under my back seats, through the center chunk carpeting, ran the RCA's and remote wire to the deck with some slack in them so i can re-possition my amp if needed. Then i ran my power wire up, under the plastic section under the steering colum, through a hole in the firewall near the drivers side kicker pannel, zip tied it to the black wire loom thats there from the factory, then ran it up to the battery.

running wires of this ampage through the bodywork is the best way to kill yourself in a crash as the wire will be live from the batt to the fuse. I would suggest that you come along the side of the rear seat along the bottom of the door frame and into the engine bay via the fire wall gromet. I would fuse the wire at both ends to prevent fire should the wire be damaged during a crash.

Hope this helps?

It doesn't really help, I appreciate your input tho.

Any size wire will carry MAXIMUM current in event of a unfused short. It's the small wires you have to worry about because they require less current to burn up quicker. Messing up your relocating wire is the LEAST of your worries in an accident. If you hit hard enough to damage it, your car is totaled.

If it shorts in the even of an accident, the fuse will go "pak" and the wire becomes dead. The whole car's electrical will go dead because it is the main source. Also, in the same location, inside the stock wire loom in the fener, you will find a group of heavy gauge wires that provide power to the fuse box under the dash. I believe Toyota (and every other car manifacture) thought about the event of an accident and how those wires would be affected.

Obviously a fuse needs to be at the battery end in event of a short of the big wire, thats a rule of thumb. (ie: read the first few lines). There is no need to put it at two ends because current is only coming from one location, the battery (where the fuse is). The only other device that produces current is the alternator and it is fused at the front engine fuse box.

I don't mean to be offensive but I believe what you just said is simply a form of misinformation.
In other words, sorry, no offense. I'm not trying to pick a fight. ok?

Please spend some time reading on www.bcae1.com. You might find alot of interesting theory.

First off there is no "real" Right or wrong way. I have done profesional installs as well as work with. And Your way, is def not near the right or profesion. There is a lot of extra work not needed and for no good reason. Primary wires are ran through the firewall for a good reason.

Otherwise, nice job and nice write up.

Nice right up, I used it last night, def not easy, but it works.

-thanks for putting the work into it, it was really helpful

I'll give you the exact same reply as I did on post (KESD) Jul 20, 2006 - 8:49 PM
Saves me the time to type it all over again.



in addition

Primary power wires (battery to inside fuse box) are NOT passed through the firewall, they are inside the loom that is passing in the fender. I had to sort through them when I did my engine swap.

This means that you are saying that Toyota did not run the wires the "right way" and did not do a professional job when they built your car.

just something to think about


To positive comment(s):

Thanks - I'm glad to hear some people are doing it.
I appreciate it, I did put alot of work into it. I will make a better version with more picts when I get my own digital camera. This whole process is actualy very easy but time consuming. It's just tricky to venture in new places, which makes it a little bit harder. I should make a How-to video

If there's any suggestions for the how-to, please let me know

Heh, I worked at a audio shop for 2 years in NY, whom the owner has won many pro iasca trophies and we never used the wheel well... it's a good idea... i would'nt say the "RIGHT WAY" but if it works it works.

Incidentally rule of thumb, always run your power wire away from your signal... i.e; power wire ran thru driver side door sill and signal wire (rca), speaker on the passenger side... illiminates alot of noise this way.


This post has been edited by Dm_Vinny: Aug 25, 2006 - 10:23 AM