6G Celicas Forums

Well I am finishing the installation of my freshly rebuilt 5s all the fluids are in and I make the first attempt to start it. It cranks but doesn't fire. I have NO spark. The distributor is freshly rebuilt with the timing set correctly. I checked the ignitor with a voltage meter and it's reading as it should. My big green book says that the next thing would be the crank sensor but a new one is like $90 dollars so needless to say I don't want to go wasting money. I just want to know what you guys think the issue could be. All help is appreciated.

make sure the ignigter is plugged in 110%. Wiggle it around and try to start it.

Did you make sure your distributor is not 180 degrees out of round?

i still have my 5s out of the car so hit me up if u need ne parts

how many miles are on your car because the crank sensors would be a cause for a no start i would check to see if it was plugged in fully, is your EFI fuse blown because that could also cause a problem of a no spark

distributor is in correctly and the ignitor is %110 plugged in the efi fuse is also not blown. I'm running out of ideas. the car has about 185000 miles on it so im thinking the crank sensor could be bad. is it correct that the crank sensor is not under power but it sends a signal as the crank turns therefor it wouldn't be getting a reading on the voltage meter?

what year celica is it, and what year motor?

I'm going to go out on a limb here....

If you have a dist, you don't have crank sensor.
You have a cam sensor, and it's part of the dist.
Which isn't sold as separate parts and is somewhere over $200.

Also how can you set dist timing if you have no spark?

Have you checked to see if theres any spark coming out of the coil?

actually, J, the 98+ motors do indeed have a crank sensor. im not sure how far back it goes, but from everything ive read, they do infact have them in the later years.

Interesting. Well I have a 96 celica I don't know the year of the motor. I also have the 96 specific BGB which specificly states after checking the coil with the volt meter the next step is the crank sensor. It doesn't mention anything about a cam sensor. I didn't check the spark from the coil yet. I'll try that. Thanks for all your help so far!

I still am getting ZERO spark. I just replaced the coil and still nothing. Also the plugs don't look like they are getting enough fuel. Help anybody?

There is a crank sensor and the reading on a DMM would be in ac voltage. Also there is a cam sensor in the distributor and it would be the one that the ignition system uses to time the spark. If it isn't working then the igniter will not pulse the coil and you would have no spark. There are also a couple of relays that could keep the system from functioning.
Check for battery voltage at the igniter and the coil with the key on. If those are good disconnect the coil wire and if you have a spark tester connect it (if not then place the coil wire about 1/2 inch away from a metal surface) and crank the engine if you have no spark there then the igniter isn't getting a trigger to fire. The causes could be that the cam sensor needs adjusting or that it is bad, the igniter could also be bad. You can check the cam sensor's resistance with an ohm meter. It is the two wire connector coming from the distributor.

could that also be the reason im not getting all that much fuel? the crank sensor is getting the proper power. i just ordered another igniter and have my fingers crossed! btw i really appreciate your reply anything helps. the distributor is new so i doubt it is the cam sensor since it's inside correct?

This post has been edited by AllTrac96: Feb 24, 2007 - 3:42 AM

The cam sensor is inside the distributor and should be good if it is new but nothing is perfect (that is why they have return policies). The crank sensor isn't powered it creates it's own power/ signal. It would look kinda like /\/\/\/\/\/\ when viewed on an automotive scope. Which is the only place where you would see it as bad. You can check it's resistance with an ohm meter just like the cam sensor. Both the cam and crank sensor depend on a moving toothed wheel to create a signal and if they are too far or too close they will generate the wrong signal.

so it also could be that i just have the crank sensor in there too tightly huh? interesting i have a few things to mess around with it seems. thanks!

I had the same problem with my 5s when swap out the motor and i found out that it was the fuel pump that went bad. If it doesn't get the right amount of fuel pressure then it won't put out a spark.

that cant be for a fact i just replaced the fuel pump with a walbro one. but thanks anyways!