6G Celicas Forums

The most recent Info on this is at the end of the first page and more discussion is on the second page. This mod is currently done, More info on page 2.

^^UPDATE

This post has been edited by 6gcSTVT: Jul 6, 2007 - 12:44 PM

not too sure what u mean but i think all of them blink..

^^^ Do they? I haven't driven my car in 3 weeks... I thought only the front blinked and the sides stay lit.

i never really noticed - but i do think the side stays lit and does not blink -- cool idea though - I don't think that should be a problem since a friend of mine did that to his and no problems for 3 years

they don't all blink. your first assumption was right.

on mine they all blink..no mod was made.
are we talking abt the same thing here?

^^^OLD PIC

In the U.S at least, our front 2 only blink not all of them.

Lubu do you have the small, small side markers that are closer to your door or do you have the same as mine? (closer to my bumper)

This post has been edited by 6gcSTVT: Jul 1, 2007 - 2:07 PM

yea mine is closer to my doors..maybe here in australia it's already wired that way...

I'm going out to give it a try...

On this part of the ocean all 4 blink also.

USDM Bumpers have sidemarkers located in front of the bumper. When the driving lights are on these are perminently lit. Every else in the world we have the sidemarkers located between the wheel and the front door and flashes along with the turn signals in the bumper.

^^^x2

So I just got back in from attempting to make my sidemarkers blink as well as the turns, and it was pretty easy.

How To:
Splice into the green wire on the sidemarkers and splice into the green striped wire on the turns. As shown below.


Enjoy 4 blinkers instead of 2!

noob question: what exactly is splice, does that just mean strip or cut? lol
cool mod btw


This post has been edited by DSToyo: Jul 1, 2007 - 5:06 PM

In this situation i should have said "strip" instead of splice. But the correct way is to do this is to get a splice connector (the one i used for the sidemarker connection)

It basically connects one wire to another via a metal tab that slices both together. Very, very cheap electrical item at your local hardware store.


I didn't want to cut my wires so I just stripped 1 cm of the protective layer away and wrapped the wire around it and used electrical tape to protect it again. (I ran out of Splicers and my hardware store closes at 3pm on sundays and I didn't feel like driving to autozone...)

I highly don't recommend using splice connectors, your wires will corrode very quickly and eventually break. Solder, electrical sealant grease + shrink tubing my friend.

According to the EWD, doing this mod would make all of your park lights flash when you put your turn signal on.... unless you cut the sidemarker wire and connected the light end on the front turn signal.

K-ESD is correct about the blinkers flashing. Instead of cutting though, a diode could be used, as should always be done when connecting two power sources to one load device to prevent back flow of electricity. Solder though, should not be used for automotive wiring as it can trap moisture that eventually may corrode a connection from within, it may reduce the electrical conductivity of the stranded wires, and it will reduce the flexibility of a joint making it more prone to failure due to vibration. Uninsulated butt connectors can be used with shrink tube for a weather tight connection.

if you did have a diode in there, the park lights would override the flash (since the bulb is already on w/ park) which kinda defeats the purpose of the mod. In this case you'd need a beefy resistor on the park circuit side and a pair of diodes. Then you're getting into more trouble than it's worth.

I have to back my choice for solder, I have never had a single problem with sealed soldered connection, even after 5+ years they are still shiny silver when I open them up. I do vehicle conversions (ie: ambulances, police cars, adaptive controls etc...) for a living and use those shrink butt connectors, they work real good but cost a bundle, we use them because it's faster than soldering. I can't really say which one is better but my choice is solder because it's more versatile (easier to solder than crimp in tight spots) and much cheaper.

So during this mod of mine I messed up in a way. K-ESD was right when he said all 4 would blink when using my turns, and during my install i must have looked over at my other light (from the ground) and saw my light during it blink stage and mistook it for "not-blinking" I think some of you as myself have seen a blinking light but catch it a certain way so it seems like it wasn't blinking. Anyways, so yeah what K-ESD is correct, You need to actually cut the side marker power wire and connect it. I have never used a diode though and since I want to do this the right way can you explain where I can get it?

you can't use a pair diode, what would happen is when your park lights are on, the sidemarker won't blink because it's already on.

You guys are making this way too complicated.

You'll need for each side:
1. A splice. As mentioned above, an uninsulated butt connector and some heatshrink tubing is ideal
2. Two male bullet connectors
3. One female bullet connector
4. Crimping tool
5. Heatshrink pvc tubing
6. Air gun or hot air paint stripper or hair dryer (to shrink the tubing)
7. (optional) Some electrical tape or cable tie to keep the unused ground wire neat and out of the way


Procedure:
0. Whenever you use a crimp terminal outside the cabin of the car, be sure to use ones with a water-tight sleeve. For good practice, I like to heat-shrink where the insulated wire exits the back of the sleeve (or the entire connector in the case of a butt or splice) to further discourage water ingress.

1. Splice a new wire into the switched feed going to the front turns. Route this wire to the area adjacent to the side marker. Attach a female bullet connector to this other end.
2. Cut the ground wire on the side marker light and attach a male bullet connector to the side that is still attached to the side marker light. Plug into the female bullet connector from step 1.
3. If you wish, so it is easy to return to stock, attach a female bullet connector to the cut ground wire, coil up and tape out of the way. When you want to return to stock, simply disconnect the male/female bullet connector from step 2 and plug the male end into the (un)coiled ground wire bullet connector.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/ma...arkerflash.html

This post has been edited by BloodyStupidDavey: Jul 5, 2007 - 6:16 PM