6G Celicas Forums

I am just now finishing up changing my manual tranny. IT IS THE BIGGEST PITA, I prefer working on the 914 to doing this, but I learned a lot so next time I could probably do it in half the time with a quarter of the swearing.

updates. I have never learned more about cars. Im on the medical field...

so this is my first time....

pics, pics. Should i resurface the flywheel?

well i think the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. all blue scratches.

the rear main seal seems ok, the leak is not from there. Should I change it.

Other options for oil leaks while im down there, how do i know if its the oil pan? See pics...

if you see oil gathering up on the tips of the bolts for the pan, that's usually an indication it's leaking. it could also be something simple like a valve cover gasket. could also be the front crankshaft seal or camshaft seal

you don't need to change the rear main seal. but it's pretty easy to do so if you decide you want to while you've got everything out already. but for sure get that flywheel resurfaced or just get a fidanza or clutchmasters one

when you put it all back together, can you take a picture of where this wire is supposed to go? the big one with the plastic covering:


This post has been edited by 6strngs: Oct 7, 2007 - 2:57 AM

DO the rear main.
whens the next time you plan on having your tranny off?
yes, have the flywheel resurfaced.
be sure to tell the machine shop that it is a "stepped" flywheel.

6 that wire attaches to the power lug on the starter.

I've used a ton of electrical tape to fix an induction hose before. It's been a great "temporary" fix for about a year now.

Same here Ducktape spray painted black...

ja, duck tape painted black sounds nice.

Resting rithg now. did a little bit of cleaning but cuople questions?

1. Threadlock for Flywheel? red or blue....
2. Does the rear main seal just pry out? same as tranny seals? or do i have to take somethign out.
3. FIPG, how long does it take to dry, and i put the oil?

I have a theory... dripping oil from the pan, hits the right axle than whoooshes all over the place. I think just by looking underneath...

seriously? cause that's the wire that that fried my wiring harness when I connected it, but if that's really where it goes then I had it in the right place. I must've had the starter grounded or something.

btw, I've traced that wire and it goes straight to battery positive, which is why connecting it to ground would fry some wires, but also the reason that the only wires that ended up being burnt on my harness were the battery cables and just a couple others had the insulation melted off cause of the near-by heat.

use blue thread lock. red stuff is a bit too strong. torque the flywheel bolts to 65lb.
replace the rear main seal, but do it very carefully. you dont want to scratch anything while your in there. normal haynes manual has a good write up on it.

clean the resurfaced flywheel and pressure plate with brake cleaner and paper towels before you put the clutch disk on. make sure to keep things very clean, and that you remove all the oil thats on the flywheel from the factory.

make sure you use HIGH TEMP grease to lube up the throw out bearing, input shaft, and pivot point on the the fork.

This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 7, 2007 - 12:51 PM

the oil pan i out. the bolts were kind of loose goosey. now that i have it out. can i just unbolt the thing for the rear mail seal. It came with gaskets and everything. kind of hard to do it otherwise.


regarding FIPG, is it the brand, or just kind of the generic name. i foudn some suff like it for 9 bucks on advance auto parts....

how much torque do the oil pans bolts get?

how much for the bolts here



only 5 k miles are mine...



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 7, 2007 - 6:21 PM

who retails Syncromesh? its about 3 qts right?

im thinking of this



remanufactured from 34 $ plus core. I have the old. its cheaper than resurfacing (60$)

with warranty and easy...

and no, i will not be turboing or anything in the next 5 yewars.. The most ill do is headers and intake... and paint..

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 7, 2007 - 9:21 PM

penzoil. and I believe it's 2.7 qts. at least, that's what haynes manual says.

how's your clutch btw? i had mine changed by the mechanic at the same time when i changed my tranny, save you the hassle of taking it apart again next time round

Also perhaps you can make this a how to, it's awesome as you already have pics

i will once i get it straight. its just time consuming. am doing lots of things while im down there too as well.

I have problems with one motor mount. I know it wont last longer than 6 months, but i cant find anyone who sells this....

ill post more pics as i go...

so if you call drive shafts axels what do you call the axels. strange...
boot/trunk
tranny/gearbox
bonnet/hood
shocks/strut
discs/rotors
e-break/handbrake
muffler/backbox
manifold/header
this gets confusing

k jus looked at the pics and didn read the posts so sorry if im repeating somone but it really looks like your cv book is wrecked that explains the oil on the block too

No, the cv boot is ok, just looks like that cuz of the pic. but thanks...


I am finally done putting things back together to torque.

But guess what!!! i have to change 6 wheel studs, that the threads went bad!!!!


My overall experience. I dont want to do this again. Working under the car is a hassle. it woudl be nice to have a lift or something....

If you think you can do this, think it twice. the only reason i finished and never gave up is because i love my car.

Reasons that slow you down.

1. unexpected broken parts.
2. trips back and forth to the parts store.
3. sockets rolling under the car
4. Looking for tools, for 20 min, and they were in front of you all the time
5. You break a part
6. My favorite, is you dont know were your going, till you reach there, putting everything back together is easier.....

I will try to post more pics of what i did, however this is why you pay mechanics the big bucks.....-

try to use a thread chaser and new lug nuts before you replace the studs. that is usually all you need (I work at a tire shop and see this all the time) if that doesn't work you could get a tap and die set and re-tap the threads on the studs.