6G Celicas Forums

Anyone have any sugestions. My plan is as follows for my poor little 7AFE it is blowing oil out everwhere and the valve seals are leaking.



Get some 4GZE rods, and crank (used). A set of oversize pistons, have this block bored to the 82.5mm with 9.1:1 comp pistons. Turbo kit it, they have garret kits for the 7AFE that fit corrolas, and a ebay intercooler. SAFC2 port the head and intake some. 2" cat back exhaust, aftermarket cat.



I have found cheap engine kits, I know a company that can do thermal coatings, for valves and the pistons. A machine shop around here will do my boring and piston-crank-rod balancing. A toyota dealer has the tool to do the valve shimming, and will rent it out. And a friend has a exhaust shop, and can either do crush bends or will have mandrell bent pieces made, and weld them up, stainless.



So far I have come up with about $3,400.00 ish for everything minus the crank, and rods. But I have no idea where to get them, or if they truly will work. Talking with another gear head on the west coast he used the same setup to get better rods for cheaper than aftermarket, and a better TDC duration for close timing under boost.


Any help is very much appriciated.

I bolded some things that stuck out as issues to me.

intercooler..ur gonna want a quality one. dont cheap on an ebay special.
2" exaust is to small IMHO id go with at least 2.5" on any turbo car.
the word CHEAP......its the killer to ANY turbo project. ull just spend more money in the long run repairing what keeps breaking.

pistons will clost quite alot, ive seen after market pistons go for $2k for a set of 4...id suggest looking into the piston and 4agze prices first b4 going whole hog on this one.

GL tho, i really wanna see someone build up a 7a with 4agze parts.

When I say cheap I mean the engine kit with interchangeable pistons is around $875.00 for pistons, rings, full gasket set, main, and rod bearings, oil pump overhaul kit, and a few other odds and ends.


Turbo Kit was $1700ish without a intercooler, I may not run one if I can get the charge air cooled with a water injection kit. Dunno what that will do to charge temps though, need to do more research.

The block work is really good on price as we use the company alot $15.00 per hole to bore and put on a basic finish, $100.00 to balance everyting. We have used the company that does the thermal coatings to do spray wear coatings, TCC and Titaniumnitride, but the ceramic coatings can be had for $45 per piston, and $30 per exhaust valve top and some stem. I work as a parts manager for a Ag company, so alot of the fill in parts can be had for cost, and tools as well as a large shop.


Has anyone here used 4GZE parts in a 7AFE yet? The specs seem to line out minus some possible grinding in the block for counterweight clearance. From what I have found on the 4GZE they were designed to take quite a bit of punisment, and the only inharent differences are the longer connecting rod, and a slightly longer stroke.

This post has been edited by Steevo: Oct 26, 2007 - 12:24 PM

Found a crank and set of rods, but need to check specs on the 7AFE crank, or search here.


Out of a 87' MR2 $200.00 from Arizona. Howevr it is called the "small pin" engine, but there is no direct difference between the rods-crank on supercharged engines to aspirated.

i have a built 7agte thats 4ag head on a 7afe block

first the 4ag pistons will work but only the ones with 20mm wrist pins ( if you use the stock 7afe rods)
edo has a 7afe with 4age pistons 7afe head and 7afe rods

4ag rods are too short to work in a 7afe block

and the crank wont work either there is a company in canada that makes a 2.0L crank for the 7afe

go check out my 7agte build that has alot of info in it

The mains are the same diamater, and on the big pin forged crank everything else should line up.


I have found the dimentions on the rods, crank offset, and the wrist pin, but I now need to call the company who is making the pistons and see what the wrist pin to top of piston clearnace is, and what stock is, so I can get a deck height idea. I want to know how where the piston will be in relation to the top of the block. If need be I can have the block machined, and the head, to close the gap, but if I can do the same with a set of higher compression pistons and still end up at the compression ratio I want I will go the route.



But for now I have to get it running again. Saturday after work it would not start. I have checked the plugs for fouling as it is burning some oil form valve leakage, nothing there. Checked to be sure the cambelt is turning, it is. Checked the ignition system as per a haynes manual on specs, and the coil came up about twice the resistance 1.5 ohm on the primary side that the book shows (.4-.7). but a new one from Napa measures the same. With two different meters.


I have tried a bit of gas in the intake, and some brake cleaner that I can start other engines off. Nada. The pickup coils are in spec. The plug wires are new. So I have no idea.....

sounds like it maybe your cps (crankshaft position sensor) it wont send a signal to your dis, to make spark

ok you have a few big problems

if you run the 4ag crank one its an 8 bolt the 7afe is a 6 bolt so your starter and fly wheel wont line up
plus the 7afe is strong enough to handel 500 horse with a little balancing and blue print

im not going to get into it i did a few years of research on the whole thing when i built mine but i'll let you go your own path

good luck

They make aluminum flywheel kits with puck clutches.



How strong are the 7AFE rods in all reality, what about if you cryo treated them? Strong enough to take about 250WHP reliably? If so I would be all for it. However with the cost of aftermarket rods I can buy a crank and rods, the block will be in for machining, and so will the head, the extra to have the deck and head machined down is minimal, and the pistons can be switched for engines and sizes with no additional cost.


All I am truly loseing is .2 liters and that will be made up for with the extra boost hopefully. This isn't a set in stone project either, I have considered going with aftermarket rods, or having the rods hardened, but from all the research there is no comprelling reason to not do it.




And for trd94 I can't find a seperate crankshaft posistion sensor other than the one in the distributor housing, and it is within specs. I am still waiting to get the other new coil to check. If that isn't it I will have to see about checking my ECU.

The coil was bad, it was within specs, however it had a hairline, very small crack that was near the high tension terminal, and was apparently jumping the gap to something else inseatd of firing a plug.

So $80 from napa and I have a running car again.



As for the conversion I have decided on water methenol injection instead of a intercooler, for the price of the extra piping, intercooler, and the small amount of extra lag it introduces, a water kit makes more sense, and seems like it will make the car easier to drive as well as allow more boost with less work.