 Battery Relocation, GT4 Style |
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 Nov 19, 2007 - 3:37 AM
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 Enthusiast  Joined May 12, '06 From Wilmington, NC Currently Offline Reputation: 45 (100%)  |
so the bolts are there for the would-be GT-four gas tank but since mine is just a plain ole' GT the bolts serve no purpose? well, then that's even better then cause I don't have to worry about what I'm disconnect and I don't need to worry about getting longer bolts if I make some sort of bracket.
--------------------  94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold 88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold 00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car 95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive |
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Nov 19, 2007 - 4:09 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 19, '02 From West of Atlanta Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE(6strngs @ Nov 19, 2007 - 3:04 AM) [snapback]615563[/snapback] QUOTE(AudioFreak @ Nov 18, 2007 - 11:36 PM) [snapback]615559[/snapback] Just some advice for everyone putting their battery in the trunk. Make sure you put a fuse on the positive lead as close as possible to the battery. You guys all seem to be doing it properly using the correct gauge of wire to reduce current loss. But if that wire gets cut somehow and there isn't a fuse you will have a fire. Wire that size doesn't melt to easily to break the circuit. It does get white hot in a hurry though. Also don't be concerned about drilling back there. The fuel tank stops before the forward edge of the spare tire well and that is between the strut towers. Just get underneath and look before you drill but there isn't much back there. I'd be more worried about a 100 pound battery loose in case of an accident. I think most cars use a fusible link rather than an actual fuse from the factory. most of the time it's about 14 ga. True. I just wanted to get the point across that there needs to be something in place to protect the wiring and an inline ANL fuse holder is pretty easy to add. |
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Nov 19, 2007 - 11:08 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) |
I personally wouldn't route the wire under the car, just asking for trouble if you snag something etc.. i know the brake lines and such run there, but if that wire got worn down and started tapping the frame etc.. you would short everything every time it hits etc..
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Nov 19, 2007 - 8:38 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Feb 20, '07 From The Chi, Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
In the sticky someone said the +power went to a "power box," whats that? Also how/where do you run the wire from the truck (lets say in a vert.) to the engine bay, would it be safe to run it under the car? Are you able to have a grounding kit still if the battery is moved, and where do u ground?
--------------------  "Pain is weakness leaving the body of the strong" |
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Nov 20, 2007 - 4:20 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Nov 14, '06 From Northampton, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
QUOTE(I3arruka @ Nov 20, 2007 - 1:38 AM) [snapback]615765[/snapback] In the sticky someone said the +power went to a "power box," whats that? Also how/where do you run the wire from the truck (lets say in a vert.) to the engine bay, would it be safe to run it under the car? Are you able to have a grounding kit still if the battery is moved, and where do u ground? You cannot run the cable under the car - this is a very bad idea indeed. A good route might be down the passenger side if you don't have audio there. Else, down the center of the car near the handbrake cable but it will beed to be securely fixed along its length. You can still have a specific grounding kit but the effect won't be as great (if you believe the hype about these anyway). Ground to any convenient chassis location then run an additional grounding wire from the -ve terminal to any convenient grounding location in the trunk. You'll still need the -ve wire running the full length front-to-back for best effect. Check out Coomers' featured ride on the front page and his write up for details of how he relocated his battery for other ideas. -------------------- Davey
Items for sale |
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Nov 20, 2007 - 6:31 AM
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 Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
there is nothing under the car in that spot where the battery is.
we drilled thru the floorpan. no drilling thru the cardboard is NOT good enough. trust me, you dont want your battery becoming a projectile during an accident. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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Dec 3, 2007 - 12:33 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Nov 22, '05 From New Zealand, Hamilton Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
How much difference did you notice with the straight intake com[ared to the other pod piping?
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Dec 3, 2007 - 12:45 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Apr 22, '07 From Bay Area, California Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
QUOTE(beno @ Dec 2, 2007 - 9:33 PM) [snapback]619134[/snapback] How much difference did you notice with the straight intake com[ared to the other pod piping? what does that have to do with battery relocation -------------------- You say you don't understand how we go dumb, but have you ever been where i'm from?
-=-] Livin it in tha bay's a lil different [-=- |
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Dec 4, 2007 - 12:07 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Oct 12, '05 From Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
QUOTE(CaliJeff @ Dec 2, 2007 - 11:45 PM) [snapback]619139[/snapback] QUOTE(beno @ Dec 2, 2007 - 9:33 PM) [snapback]619134[/snapback] How much difference did you notice with the straight intake com[ared to the other pod piping? what does that have to do with battery relocation That's why the guy is wanting to do it. 
-------------------- Past: V6 Swapped 6G Celica, E46 BMW M3, Jeep Wrangler TJ
Current: 850rwhp C6 Corvette Grandsport, Gen1 6.2L Ford Raptor |
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