6G Celicas Forums

whats with the nos? it doesnt look like a 7afe head... why?

both. I want to break it in n/a for a while, in the meantime I still need a couple more things for the turbo stuff



thanks



it's very...very slow



its a joke. it is.







This post has been edited by hurley97: Dec 20, 2007 - 7:50 PM

good stuff!

i kind of figured it was a mixture of both.

I am having a lot of problems with my wideband. Although Innovate is very good at helping me through everything.

I initially had a problem where I connected the digital gauge I have and the narrow band signal for my ECU to the same output so when I changed the voltage reading for the gauge, it gave the wrong voltage to the ECU and the car would lean out. I put them on separate outputs and everything has been fine for a while now.

Now today I turned the car on like normal and it started to lean out again. Now, this happened once before a couple days after I got everything working the first time and I shut the car off and when I turned it back on everything was fine again and has been.... until today. I was driving around all day stopping and starting the car. Finally I stopped [to get a microfiber mit for Manny and Jenn... thats another story] and, not changing any settings or doing anything different this time, no matter how many times I turned the car back on it wasn't right and would lean out every time. Finally, under the recommendation of Dustin, I just cut the wire for the narrow band signal that goes to my ECU and was able to drive it home... with a check engine light.

I just called Innovate tech support and the guy has no idea why its happening, he too my name and number and said he'd call me back.

This post has been edited by hurley97: Dec 28, 2007 - 7:28 PM

All i can say is great work hurley97.

I am planning to rebuild a spare head that i have got with some regrinds like you have got, and a mild port and polish. As it was mentioned earlier in this topic can you definatly use 4age valve components in the 7afe head?

not necessarily. what valve components are you planning to use?

why not just run a standalone wideband rather than piggybacking off the stock sensor? or maybe i misunderstand whats going on here, but the innovate display can piggyback off the stock sensor and act as a narrowband display or be hooked to a wideband sensor and be a wideband display. the wideband sensors arent that much and neither is the bung to install it into the exhaust.

that would be an energy drink

I was running with the wideband sensor installed and the narrowband wire that the ECU reads tapped into the wideband sensor. the stock sensor was not installed at all. the reason for making the wideband do both was just because it was easy to install since it just takes the place of my stock sensor in the bung that is already there and it's a clean looking install since it pretty much looks like stock. since I was having trouble with the wideband loosing programming and sending my ECU the wrong signals I'm going to have to have a bung welded and make the wideband standalone.

i was planning on using the springs and retainers as thats all the 4age valve train part i could find will these parts be ok? If not what parts can i use?

the springs and retainers would probably work fine.



a little late of an UPDATE: So Christmas day, with under 500 miles on the new engine, Dustin and I decided to drive my car down to NJ and from the beginning something was wrong. the car would not heat up like it should, when it finally got some temperature the heat would blast cold air, the oil pressure dropped a little lower than it should have been. about 15 mins from home the check engine light came on and the car stalled out.

opened the hood and found out the lower radiator hose had come off and all my coolant drained out. I had a tiny amount of water and coolant leftover from the swap but we connected the hose back up and poured in what we had and decided to try and limp the car home.

we made it just about far enough to turn around and get a little past where we stopped the first time before the temp needle moved just over normal operating temp. that was it, shut the car off and called a tow truck. first time my car has ever had to be towed and it was with the new motor, I was very upset.

took Dustin's car to NJ and when we got back that night made sure the radiator hose was secure and filled it with coolant/water just so I could get it to work and have them do a proper coolant flush.

now that the coolant situation is all set I did notice an oil leak. having checked it out further at work I think it's a defective crank seal. my oil pan is wet with oil and the furthest part of the moisture seems to be coming from the bottom corner of the timing cover just behind the crank pulley. pulled the top part of the timing cover off and the cam seal and everything around it is dry. it has still not been taken care of but it's not leaking terribly, it's maybe lost 1/2 qt in 1200 miles.

on a positive note the rings are seating perfectly, the oil is constantly cleaner than I have ever seen it before. and I am very happy with my cams, they make the car pull like no other 7A can and they make me feel much better about the car.

This post has been edited by hurley97: Jan 13, 2008 - 11:50 AM

all motor builds come with their hickups. sounds like you got it handled though. whats the ET on turboing?

replaced the crank seal on Weds. it had popped out on one side.

I need to get my wideband hooked up again but now Innovate wants me to take it out and send it back to them for a failure analysis and they will either fix it or send me a replacement... and who knows how long that will take.

turbo setup will probably be waiting until late spring. I'd like to give the engine some break in time, if there are going to be any other hiccups I want to get them out of the way.

Nice write up on the 7AFE.

I am curious about the cam you put in as it has a lot more duration than a stock cam. Did you loose much low end? What rpm does it start pulling hard and how high does it pull now? My stocker (except for a header) is all done at about 6000.

I think it's about the same on the low end, it just feels like you loose a little because of the pull later on.

It starts to pull hard between 3500-4000 rpm and continues to pull all the way to redline, I haven't gone past redline yet but I'm pretty sure it'll pull past it.

Also, it dramatically changes the sound of the engine. There's the normal low rpm quit, changes sound completely and gets louder in the mid range, and it makes a hell of a noise after 5000 rpm.

you said you havent gone past redline, did you change the fuel cut on the ecm so that it can go past the preset 6200 or not? if so, how did you change it?

mine is a 97 so my redline is about 5900. I did not bypass the fuel cut, I believe it will set off a check engine light once you go past redline if you do bypass it. If you want to know how to do it go here: http://evilspeed.com/Speed_defeat.htm

i believe he means did you remove/raise the RPM limiter, not speed limiter.

What do you think our bottom end can take? i know a stock valve train does not like >6,000RPM, though

he said "fuel cut" which is pretty much what limits the speed. and as far as I know thats the only limiter you can modify.

I think the bottom end can take more than you would think. Manny (presure2) ran his 5S up to about 8200 rpm or so (accidentally) once, still runs great.

honda guys only have to replace a crystal in the ECU.
im not sure about us..
8200 RPM would not be too safe daily.. lol
did it pull strong up that high?