6G Celicas Forums

So the car ran and drove fine for a couple days and then i was about to put it in my garage and it died. it didnt really sputter as if it was out of gas just suddenly stopped. i checked for spark and there is none. the coil has power but there is no power at any of the pins on the distributor which leads me to believe something in the wiring is bad or the ecu is fried somehow and power is not sent to the distributor to inturn send signal to the coil. i checked with a timing light to see if there was power through the wire from coil to distributor and there was none. so the coil is maybe bad but it might just not be getting the signal from the distributor. im extremely pissed about it all because i just got it running.

Also on another note did anyone else have a problem closing there hood after completing a swap. for some reason my hood is not able to close past the first latch. i think it is hitting my radiator but it is the stock radiator in the stock location so i dont understand why that would cause a problem. again any input is appreciated. thanks alot

This post has been edited by 6G94celica: Jul 24, 2008 - 7:56 PM

Bump c'mon someones gotta have ideas

I am assuming this is a swapped Celica? Cheapest and easiest test is to go get a MSD Blaster 2 (?) Coil from you favorite auto parts store... If you get good 12V to the Coil and it is properly grounded, and you are not getting spark and you are comfortable it is not the distributor... try this first...

who did your wiring?

tweak did the wiring

i think distributor is just hal sensors. so you wouldnt have power to them anyway. are the coils the ame for the 3s and 5s?

im not sure, i got ahold of tweak and im gonna try a new igniter and an MSD coil. im leaning towards the MSD blaster 2. any toehr ideas for the coil.

Have you made sure your timing belt didn't break or jump time?
Pull off the dist cap and make sure the rotor is turning when you crank the engine.


Hall effect sensors do require power to work.
Less than 12V, but power none the less.
Regardless, Toyota doesn't use them in their dist, they use an inductive pickup.

ah got them confused somehow. anyway inductive pickup doesnt require power, does it?

yes the rotor is turning so the timing belt is fine and if the belt just jumped there would still be spark, the car just wouldnt start.

are you getting fuel?
if you are, the ecu could be ruled out as a possibility.
the black wire w/ orange strip should have +12 when the key is on.

the wire on one of the ecu plugs or the fuel pump. i havent had time to run out and do this yet but i did jump +B to Fp and the pump kicked in but even cranking i dont here the pump running unless jumped

have you check the alternator,battery or starter

yes sir all good

so after a new igniter, coil, ecu checked and rechecked a million times, the wires going to coil checked for resistance, and all the grounds checked and tightened, it still wont fire, there is no spark and sounds like there is minimal compression. ive been talking to dr. tweak and hes stumped as am i. any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated, just throw stuff out ill let you know if ive checked it or not.

come on someone has to have some ideas

1. Did you ever check for codes (regardless if your CEL is on or not) ?
2. Did you check the voltages at the different pins on the igniter and coil and compare them to results from a running car?

sounds like its your ignition box, since u can not dynamically test it, that must be it. It will show up fine when u check with everything off. Try just swapping the box.

i have ran codes and none show up, as far as checking the pins i have no way of doing that unless i can get a list of voltages from someone with a 2nd gen swap because unfortunately there is no one in the vicinity of where i live that has one. if someone could provide me with this list it would be greatly appreciated.


as in ignition box do you mean the igniter or am i completely mistaken, the igniter has been replaced and changed nothing

Test them and post up what you get.