6G Celicas Forums

What is this #3 part called anyway? I can't seem to find it on the online dealers listed? Is it the regulator? The regulators cost $108 not $48 to $68.

nope

Plate Assembly Convertible

good and bad news.

Bad: my rear right window broke.

Good, i will post good pictures on how to do this.... (when i get it.... )

Wow those are some mad tech tips. Well I purchased a 1997 Celica Convertible Limited Edition on 07 Jun 08. Yeah..........

I would like to add one thing about the window ordeal I got both of them to work with in the rear. More detail about that later.

I am a Helicopter Mechanic by profession. I will offer this to all of you doing any type of mechaical repair that you have never done before as an aid in putting back together after you take it apart. Like the guy said before get zip lock bags and label where the parts came from. Use 1 " tape across the top if you are going to have it apart for more than a week or so. If your going to do it in a weekend then a Sharpie is great for writing on the bags. Now to really cover your A$$ write down everything you take off. This is what we do in aviation. Just get a legal pad or steno pad. Write on the top of page; Rear R/H window INOP so you will remember what your original fault was. Then write down on one half of page,
1. Rmvd rear seat bottom, next line
2. Rmvd Top Snap Screw from R/H rear panel, Next line,
3. Rmvd Fwd rear panel screw, Next line,
4. Rmvd 2 ea. lower panel screws. etc.

I recommend you do this after you remove each assembly (assy) so you won't forget. After you get it apart then you can determine what needs replacement, get that and put it back together in reverse order. As you start putting it back together go to the left hand side of the page and enter reinstalled window assy, reinstalled screw so you can keep track as you go back up the page.

After you got it all back together look for any left over parts. If you find some that are not the broken parts you replaced with new ones. Guess what you messed up because you forgot something. Read your fault list and check for missing corrective actions you did not sign off. Ah Ha there it is you forgot to install the snap screw on top of the panel. Put it in and sign it off. Ok your done. Hopefully it'll work. I know this seems a tedious way to go about it. But it is what keeps most aircraft flying and it can work on a car as well. See my built in forgetter works a lot better than my memory banks. Good Luck with it. Wish me luck as well.

Another suggestion, Many companies make a colapsible magnetic wand ( Like a car antennawith a magnet on the end) and mechanical fingers. You will be forever grateful you invested in those tools.

I have been looking at those damn rear windows since saturday when I bought the car. I finaly got the rear r/h panel off today and was able to look down inside some sun glare made it harder than it needed to be. I only saw about a gallon of water down in the bottom of the rear window well. Is there a drain plug down there? Or should I just drill a hole to get rid of it. I know a seringe with a long tube tapped to a folded out coat hanger would suck it out or just some small sponges but hey that takes a lot longer. Comments, Ideas or Suggestions?

Ok I have an off topic question which does relate to the top. Where the top latches into the window frame assy the notches where the hook clamps into are worn beyond limits. I have ordered a replacement part from the dealer. Now my question is do I need to remove the sunvisors,rearviewmirror to get all that apart to replace that interior hook retainer assy?

I will certainly be asking more questions relating to the window reapirs issue. Just to tired tonight. Glad you guys are here. Nice to know I am not alone in trying to DIY my ride. Oh I am a Toyota nutcase. I have 1 1993 Lexus SC400 running 67K miles, 1 93 SC 300 flood car but runs, 1 94 SC300 wrecked and parting it out. 1 1997 T-100 SR5 2WD ext cab second engine 248K miles. Damn I love that truck, I just sold a 2000 Tundra SR5 Ext Cab. I only needed one truck ROFLMAO. Whats better than a Toyota, More Toyota's

OOPS forgot one more tip. Instead of Alcohol, Try MEK ( Methol Ethol Ketone ) It will stop the bleeding so fast usually about 5 wipes. Great anti Coagulant. Do not leave can open to long because it will give you a heavy buzz, followed by a headache. Sort of like Kilz Primer. It is also a great cleanign agent for parts. It is not designed for medical use. But damn it works great. Now the down side. After prolonged use it can cause Drain Bamage, vericose veins, see :-). Good stuff though if you limit your use of it. Don't bath in it like I did when I was in my 20's. I had over exposure for 2 years. Whew! Bit for a few cutshey ya can't beat it with a bandaid.

Be careful out there. Ya can't force it ya gotta just encourage it along.

there is a drain plug, its located underneath in front of the rear wheel, in the plastic. Use a hose to clean it from the outside, it is probably plugged.... Do not drill please...




i guess, so, there are no visible screws, i have not yet repaired this,

I did both rear windows along with the help of someone who knew what he was doing. I pretty much held the light at night. Cost $160 labor, but he installed a radio and speakers for me to. It took a lot of time, but the windows work great now!
Also, he took apart and cleaned both motors as well as the switch for the one that wasn't working and that fixed the problem with the right rear not going up.

Within a couple of weeks my son ran it through a big puddle, and I think now that I have hydro-locked the engine, so I may be needing an engine replacement, and that engine had only 70K on it.

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG

WTF WTF WTF WTF WTF

this seems really really complicated. I got a loose back rear window that does not go up straight when the car is in motion. I took it to toyota and they said it takes five hours just to take everything apart and put them back together so they suggested that I replace the entire window/regulator assembly. I was thinking that there was just a screw that fell off. the gave me a quote $2100 for $600 parts and $1500 labor.

really knowing how much work it takes you think it is reasonable???

no man, nope, no need to pay that, might as well bend over and take it from them, that is unreasonable, you can get another celi for that.... do it yourself

this is a really awesome thread for us verts. Shame the pics dont work anymore ;\

what missing pics?

ah disregard I see them now. I had to do this couple weeks back and it really is a pita.

i know when all else fails go yo junkyard and grab 2 of these for peanuts !!!

Rear Window Help

Found this link, helped me a little bit think i might try and rig up a new roller i really don't want to have to do all that work it sounds painful

Thanks a lot for the information. That's why I love it when people post helpful useful information. It actually helps when you run across the same problem someone else has. I have to do this repair sometime soon. I already have the repair part, so now I just need to find the time. Thanks again.

pertaining to removing the window:
my passenger side corner window bushing went out a few years back. I didn't have to take off any panelling other than the top piece that covers the seatbelt. I just grabbed the window and rose it up to a point up where I could disconnect the mechanism that electrically raises it when you push the switch. That was a bitch to get to if my memory serves me, but once I did that the window slid right out of its track and into my hands. I bought a new plate and the rest is history. Reconnecting that raising arm was probably the most difficult part...

pertaining to switches:
my windows will not want to raise every 6 months or so. All I have to do is clean the switches and presto, they work again.

pertaining to those little metal window stoppers:
about those little metal stoppers that work to stop the corner windows from raising too far... If I remember correctly there are two per side. One of the two on my passenger side was not long enough to connect to the window plate. This meant that one would stop the front of the window from going to far, but the back would continue and the result would be a cock eyed window. I literally had to remove that stopper and weld more area to it to make that stopper longer so it would make the correct connection. I don't know how it never affected the previous owner.

This post has been edited by Terzin1: Oct 7, 2011 - 8:59 AM

Well ther are 2 versions of vert covers the ones you have and the ones i have. Which is a single piece. Now i went to the yard and bought the two piece trim

I hate myself for not finding this ages ago, I suspect my rear passenger regulator when kableewy but I was selectively searching the Internal/Electrical subforum. This is a very late thank you.

Is anyone replacing the broken bushings or do you have to replace the entire window?

replace the entire bottom assembly. and get it before its discontinued