6G Celicas Forums

I have an oil leak, giving out about a quart or so every 3 or 4 days. The leak seems to be coming from the rear of the engine closer to the passenger side. My mechanic changed the valve cover gasket and I still have this leak. The new assumption is the crank seal. The charge is 380 (which is what I paid for my motor swap).

Is the 2.2 known to leak from any other possible place besides the Valve cover and oil pan?

The real question is how hard is it to get to the crank seal on a 2.2 and am I being overcharged?

I trust my mechanic but I'm a bit skeptical on his price.

This post has been edited by PHLCELICA: Jun 16, 2008 - 3:24 PM

you shouldn't be - have you seen where the crank seal sits and what all must be removed to change it?

No still not %100 sure where it's at, which is the main reason for asking. But from your response I'm assuming it's something a bit more internal.

hmm mines leaking a lot too, but i have no idea where o.o

My car is leaking from somewhere in the middle of the engine. It is a small leak though. I dunno where the hell it could be coming from too. All I know is it isn't much. Just a drop or so. I just wish I didn't have that problem. This time I use synthetic oil now.

try using this

http://www.barsproducts.com/E10L.htm

hmm that sounds really simple..

no, that stuff just makes your oil SUPER thick which is bad for the engine. yea, it wont leak as much because its too thick to leak!


to do the rear main you need to remove the transmission, hence the high price.

I tried the one for the radiator and it stopped leaking. If it would thicken the oil, it might be a good idea to change it after running a few miles, just to seal the leak.

In my next oil change, i will try to seafoam, my car has 171k miles and there might be possible leak on it. I might try using it if there would be a leak.

stop leak for radiators is bad, think about if it clogs up the small hole in your radiator....its going to clog up all the other small holes in the cooling system. your cooling system uses small passages everywhere. the radiator itself is nothing more than a bunch of very small passages as is the heater core. stop leak reduces the amount of heat it can dissapate by clogging some of those passages up as well as your leak. make sure your heat works ok, ive seen with my own eyes peoples heat stop working after using stop leak.

as for in the oil, it makes the oil too thick. starting up in cold weather will be like trying to stir cold honey. its not like the radiator stuff, it thickens the oil and only thickens the oil you add it to. when you change the oil and dont add it, the leak will be back and as bad as before. infact the oil thickeners can make seal leaks like his WORSE by raising oil pressure!

This post has been edited by Bitter: Jun 16, 2008 - 7:58 PM

Yup! my heat still works fine. I used the leak stopper last feb.

I had a pretty extensive oil leak too from mid-rear of my engine, turned out to be the distributor O-ring seal. No more leak and its been 4 months now.

This post has been edited by 6G96GT: Jun 16, 2008 - 9:26 PM

Hmmm sounds somewhat similar. I'll go ahead and just change it to since I'm gonna be pretty much changing the rest.

Also I've used sea foam and it didn't stop the leak just made the car run better

This post has been edited by PHLCELICA: Jun 16, 2008 - 10:05 PM

Sea Foam won't stop a leak -- if anything, it'll probably make the leak worse by dissolving and loosening carbon deposits.

As me how I know.

That said, anywhere there's a gasket could be the source. Oil pan, oil pump, rear main, distributor, valve cover, etc. The trick is to clean your engine well enough to trace the next leak. Best to test the leak source by running the engine in neutral, so that if it drips onto a moving part such as an axle the oil is not sprayed around, disguising the origin.

Follow the leak to it's highest point and start with that. Now you said passenger side in back of the motor, correct? Because if you did I'm not sure how everyone is coming up with distributor o-rings and rear main seals, those are on the other side of the motor where it meets the transmission.

Anyway, if you think it's the crank seal that is not a $380 job. Once you get the passenger side wheel off you just need to take the drive belts and bottom timing cover off and once you get the crank pulley out it's right behind there.

Now if it's the front pump seal that's a different story. You need to pull the timing belt back off and, the part the crank seal goes into, remove that whole assembly from the engine block.

That's around a $380 job at most shops @ $75-100/hr labor. I would think at your dealership they would want even more. Our local dealerships want $100-150 + parts just to change the alternator and belt which ends up being $500 out the door. I'd say this is a bit more work.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 18, 2008 - 7:04 AM

It could be your camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, or oil pump seal, among the most common leaks. You're gonna pay a lot to get this done. Expect $300-600

for a Crankshaft seal? the one right behind the crank pulley on the passenger side of the engine, right? On a 7A it's 1.0hr labor at $90/hr, I'm pretty sure it's about the same on a 5S but if you want to go crazy and say it's 2.0 hrs labor and $12 for the seal thats $192. I'm a service writer and I've sold a few crank seals at $100 total.

My bad for responding a bit late... Had a nasty Trojan and had to reformat.... Newayz.... I'm not to sure what it is but i'm just gonna go ahead and change all the seals because with gas at this price and a quart of oil every 2-5 days I feel like I have a V6.

But hey on another, the owner of the garage told me that at the 6gc meet in Philly. If any of yaw had any problems (Check Engine light, sounds from the car etc.) He would go ahead and have his mechanics give it a quick check and of course Check engine light diagnoses are free as well as any checks..... The shop has 4 lifts and is legit so no one think this is a street mechanic I've been talking about lately. LoL.....

Thanx for all the suggestions and all. What better place to get a good idea of where your problem is on your Celica than 6GC.

anyone have a part number for that? Oil got into my distributor before it decided to internall break into pieces. I can't find a part number for the o-ring though