6G Celicas Forums

in regards to the oil filter relocation kit, was it only done due to the exhaust manifold/wastegate dump pipe ?

the turbo is still going.
the turbo fits JUST barely. we had to trim the shroud to get the clamps and coupler on the outlet.
the oil cooler wont fit.

technicly, yes.

so what would u say the quality of that turbo, since it being off ebay, and i see them go for about 150shipped? would u say its worth it to give it a try?

well, if your expecting me to say , "i stand by these cheap ebay turbos 100%" no. i've heard too many horror stories to ever say that.
however, like i told jim and shannon, if this turbo lasts more than a year, it was worth it.
if it decides to take a dump, and fail somehow, as long as it dont kill the motor, theyre cheap enough to replace.
i never ever recommend them just based on the history behind them, and the fact that if they DO fail catistrophicly, was it worth saving 500$ now, to have to replace an engine later?
you can buy a REAL garrett turbo, with a much better compressor/ exhaust combo for ~ 600$, right off the KO racing website.

Its statements like that, that remind me why the CT27 is such a rippoff.

yea, but then again, you cant bolt on a garrett turbo.

Thats the only excuse they have for the price they charge. They make a pure killing on those things.
If they charged around 3-400$ for what is a turbo rebuild, they would sell them like hotcakes and still make a ton of money.

would it fit if you turned the CT26 to T3 adaptor around so the wastegate was on the other side, then vent the wastegate to atmosphere? also, who makes that downpipe or is it one that came with the ebay kit?

that wont work.

SS autocrap makes all that junk in china.


most typical rebuilds cost ~350-400$.
are they supossed to do all the CNC machine work they do on them for free?
comeon art.

How much did they charge you for your turbo?
Their cost is probably about 200 bucks of parts and cnc work (if that). All they do is a standard rebuild and just put it on a cnc machine to bore out the exhaust side. At 400-500$ price point, they will still be making a 50% markup on the turbo, and sell about twice as many of them. As it stands right now, you have to give ats 1,000$ for a ct27, and hope they accept your core.

Garrett can build (not rebuild) a brand spaking new turbo for LESS then 500 bucks, sell it to KO, then they mark it up and sell it to you....and its STILL a good amount less then what ats charges for a rebuild, and you end up with a MUCH better turbo. On top of that, you still have your old turbo that you can sell for 1-200 bucks brining the cost down to about 400, for a BRAND NEW turbo.

The only excuse they have is that the ct27 is a direct bolt on, and the t3/t4 is not, but if you compare turbo's to turbo's, the ct27 is overpriced.

This post has been edited by lagos: Feb 7, 2008 - 2:20 PM

of course it is, its the only one of its kind.
lets move on, this is way off topic.

Jeff(defgeph) made that downpipe we did not use the one that came with the kit. The turbo is still doing fine...we didnt think it would last this long..maybe we got lucky idk.

shannons car is back up here, getting the following installed:
8psi wastegate spring
"devils own" WI kit
we are also going to be ordering a set of the colt cams, ground to suit the turbo setup they are running, and are going to hopfully be installing the 2nd bodykit they ordered (the first was REALLY bad.)

so i went about installing the larger wastegate spring.
let me tell ya, this was NO fun.
#1, with the crappy design of the turbo adapter, getting the wastegate off, without removing the whole turbo setup (turbo, manifold, and DP) as one peice first was impossible, so, i had to remove the wastegate cover with it still in the car.
now, ok no biggie, right?
no. i had to remove the alternator, and still had a hard time even getting a allen wrench in there to loosen the bolts.
the cover is under tension from the wastegate spring pushing on it, so you have to remove the bolts in a circular pattern so the housing dont get cocked.
getting it off wasnt too bad, but getting it back together took a while.
i ended up using a c-clamp to help hold the cover in place so i could get the bolts started, and worked it back in.
once that was done, i took it out for a ride, to see what it felt like as i turned up the boost.
anything over 12psi and you can really feel the knock on pump fuel, so we're currently working on getting the WI installed ASAP, then heading over to the dyno for some tuning.
i will drive the car a bit more once i install the WI, to see how it responds to more boost with that, and if all goes as planned, i will prolly throw in a 50/50 mix of race fuel and pump gas and head over to the dyno and turn the boost up to 14 or 15 psi and see if the car has anything left in it before the cams.
i am quite eager to see if it will continue to make power over the 240whp they made last time @ 11psi.
i feel like we are getting close to the limit of the stock head, and this round of dyno runs will let us know if that is true or not.
more to come soon!!

do you have compressor surge at low boost with this setup? I have the same turbo kit, near the same intercooler path and the bov is located at the same place and I have compressor surge... I'm using a Greddy type RS BOV. Let me know!

nope.
the lowest we ran it at was 5.5 psi. but that wasnt for long, we basicly turned up the boost to ~11psi right after everything was settled in.

i mean, you certainly not go into boost each time you ride your car. When you aren't boosting it, when you shift only at 3000 RPM, do you have compressor surge... This is my case, and because you have the same setup as me, I want to know. Can you take pics of your intercooler piping and how do you clock the turbo down... Mine is sitting on the slave cylinder bleeder and I cannot clock it more to the ground. This result in a 1/8 play between radiator and turbo output intercooler coupling.

Let me see some pics of how much your turbo is clocked to the ground.

Thanks

Sam

there is no compressor surge on this car at any time.
i do believe there are pics of how the turbo is mounted earlier in the thread.
the guys who built this setup for theyre old 5th gen welded on a 90* outlet onto the turbo.

::edit:: heres the best pic i have of it.

ok, thanks for the pics... I'll try to investigate my problem deeper. For now, I relocated the BOV right after the turbo outlet, before the FMIC, no change. I removed the intercooler because I though it could be pressure drop (I replaced it with a long tube), no changes. So, I bought a Synapse Synchronic BOV and I'm waiting on it. If the synapse BOV doesn't clear the problem, I'll clock the turbo on the upside and I'll run a direct tube from turbo to intake manifold with the BOV between them. Like this, I'll be sure that the pressure drop isn't the problem. If this doesn't work, this mean that my t3-t4 turbo is the problem... I'll wait my Synapse BOV.

Thanks

Sam

dang i wanna do this but im scared could prolly get the same parts...but use my engine (95).......and prolly use a diff turbo and stuff........
nice work though. i'll using this as a reference later.

so, the car has been up here a while, i installed a devils own water injection kit, (running windshild washer fluid) and a larger wastegate spring. (8.5psi IIRC)

threw in a few gallons of race fuel for safety (about a 50/50 mix) and went over to the dyno this morning.

this is from the last time we were at the dyno, @ ~11.5psi.



we turned the boost up, and went for broke. 16.7psi handed us THIS:



yes, your reading right, thats 285+whp and just about 300ftlbs

simply put, the car feels REAL fast.

all this on a still unopened, 100% stock longblock.

who'd of thunk it??