6G Celicas Forums

Anybody replace the cluch on there 2.2 themselves?? just curious as to how difficult it really is, if I would need air tools etc. garages wanna charge me upwards of 500 bux to replace....any help would be appreciated

its tough, and if this is your dd pay.

I am inexperienced and not a lot of tools took me a total of 20 to 24 hours separated 4 hours everyday cause of work. I ended not having a car for a week.

Did i learn? yes. a lot. First thing I learned is to get the right tools.

the first thing you need is jacks, engine support and lots of ratchets and sockets. Get the chilton manual and read before. Have all the parts necessary that you will change or think will change. You dont want to make several trips.

Most of all, OEM is your friend.

Some people take the whole engine out, but a transverse engine support can do with 3 ton jacks and 5 ton jackstands.

When i say engine support I mean this..



not this ( I used this and yo run the risk of injury, the wood can break with 400 pounds, engine weight)



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Sep 9, 2008 - 8:33 PM

did you use air tools or hand tools? cuz with the price they wanna charge me, i can buy a compressor and all the tools necessary for less!!

air tools can be very handy, but your gonna be working in a lot of hard to reach places where it is hard for them to reach due to their larger size. I would make sure you have a good socket set and wrenches, and something to slip over your tools to get more leverage for hard to budge stuff. A good torque wrench might be worth lookin into too, dad got one and its good to know everything is perfectly torqued like it should be. gl dude.

The whole pulling the tranny and replacing the clutch is the easy part. The tough part is your rear tranny mount and cross member. Regular hand tools, box end wrenches, and ratchets will be good enough. No air tools needed.

i bought a "hobby" compressor before (50l - 1.5hp)- waste of time! they struggle to remove wheels nuts and you have to wait for it to refill after 2 nuts.

i recently got a 3hp 100litre belt driven compressor, thats the sort of power and capacity you need for a compressor to be a worthwhile addition but that costs twice what the garage wants to charge.

tbh you dont need air tools - but they are a nice luxury to have but it is a false economy unless you buy a pro one.

as others have said - buy a workshop manual then decide. i do all my own work with the car on stands - seperates the men from the boys!!

my hubby & i did an engine swap in the MR2 with nothing but hand tools, so you don't really need air tools like ae102 said.
we did get an air compressor just recently & for bigger jobs it makes things easier & go faster, but you can get by without one unless you plan on doing lots of work yourself in the future.

make sure you have a good ratchet, socket set, torque wrench & a breaker bar, jackstands to support the weight & a good manual preferebly toyota shop manual aka BGB.

I have air tools with a fairly large compressor (was enough when i was doing my clutch to help me wiz thru the whole job) its a bit spendy but when your filthy as heck and some cute chick walks by, the Vrr-VRRRR from the wrench makes it worth it lol jk

i'd be more concerned with that jack holding up, w/o tipping. Mine buckled under the weight of my car changing a tire damn car fell on me, and it fcuking hurt.

ouch..!!! glad your still able to type!! lol I was considering gettin one of those compressors from like sears of sumthin, they're like 300 bux, are those any good, or would I be wasting my time and money??

This post has been edited by NickJames: Sep 10, 2008 - 4:27 PM

what's the spec? tbh the minimum you'll need to make it a worthwhile purchase is a belt-driven 3hp motor with a 100l tank. them hobby ones are useless really unless its for small spraying projects. they cant generate enough pressure to apply anywhere near the force we can and the air is always trying to catch-up. if you run them for a few hours they give up!! i spent $400on a cheap one - useless and never paid for itself. spent $900 on a decent one a couple of months ago - half paid for itself already. if you have the space and money go for the biggest tank possible but a 100l will run 1 high output tool continuios without a drop in performance.

I m lookin at somethin like a 25 gal. 1.6hp or similar. I am not a heavy duty mechanic, so it would only be used for tire removal/installation and projects such as this......

neither am i! wouldnt waste your money - nothing is better as they cant run an impact driver to remove a wheel quicker than you can do, they wont give enough go to loosen a hub nut - get me point. a half decent one is worth its money if your gonna use it but when i did an engine swap i didnt use my compressor - but i do things that tools run by compressor are a better option - sandblasting,diegringer,da sander. i dont use it for most mechanical jobs as it is no advantage or you cant gain access for the tools or in most cases it would be overkill.