6G Celicas Forums

awesome steff congrats...are u going to have it tuned on the dyno? It would be sweet 2 see the numbers and to have a nice tune...enjoy..i have been

Yea, I got the smallest one that's rated to 270hp. They make ones rated up to 1275hp

I tried adjusting the wastegate actuator the other day before I brought the car home from Manny's house, it would consistently get to a max of about 13psi and hold out at 10psi in second gear. When I adjusted it I made it so that the actuator arm just about held the wastegate closed with no tension on the arm.

So today I tried again to adjust the rod in the same direction, now it holds the wastegate open just slightly at all times, but the boost level now seems to go to 13psi every time and is a little slower at building boost between 0-6psi.

I think I'm going to try and go for a wastegate actuator rated for 11psi.

I need to work on the tuning but I need to sort out my exhaust leak before doing so. And I think I'd rather tune it on the dyno as it seems like it might be easier that way.

steff, i would just pull the manifold, and have it surfaced.
its more than likely warped, which is what is causing the exhaust leak.

I didn't realize I hadn't updated since the exhaust leak has been fixed...

So the exhaust leak is fixed. We drilled and tapped 2 more holes in the head, there are spaces for them they're just solid and the holes were already in the manifold. The gasket was junk, it was crushed in a few places from the old manifold, I guess it's because I wasn't thinking and reused the old gasket thinking it would be fine...oops. The added support at the manifold and new gasket cured the leak and given more support for the whole exhaust.

Me and Dustin found the coolant leak at the intercooler system, put in the new 11psi wastegate actuator, and cleaned up some of the hoses in the bay.

I still can't floor it since in the higher rpms when it gets into higher boost it runs out of fuel. Since I can't get it to stay under 13psi I'll just have to make it safe when it's at 13psi. I still have to work out a misfire from cyl #1 at idle, I'm still checking things. I already switched the plugs around, they look fine and the CEL still came back for cyl 1. Other than that, in just daily driving I don't run it above 10psi and it runs and drives just fine, afr is good.

Next things on the list in order of importance are:
- getting 370cc injectors and tuning it for them. It would be nice to find the Beams injectors but I might just get them from RC Engineering, I'm just not sure how good they are and/or how long they last, etc.
- finding a good place to mount the catch can and research the proper routing for it...
- getting proper piping for the intake (right now it's made of some spare things from Manny's garage and its half aluminum and half stainless piping) and having Manny make me an intake with a nipple on it for my catch can.
- installing the water injection and deciding if I want to mount an external tank for it or just tap into my washer fluid tank

steff, IIRC the RC injectors are made by denso.
i wouldnt worry about durability ect, NHRA guys use them.
lol

^ seconding that opinion. I researched RC injectors for awhile, they are a reputable company with a quality product and their team is helpful.

hey Steff..

the RC's are awesome.
I also have problems with Catch Can. I have a basic catch can, but i recommend a catch tank with 2 ports and a breather. That's what i;m switching to. I'm using an old Cold Air Intake from a 1998 Tiburon. lol

can you explain that a little more ?

I was thinking the catch can should go between the intake pipe and the valve cover, how do you have it ?

you ever decide if your gonna megasquirt it?

My friend Mario(Manny and Shannon have met him) with the 95 supra has his mounted underneath the car all the way next to the rear wheels...As far as I was told you just want it far enough away where it can seperate properly. I will find out more info from him.

that's a little overkill , but its the right idea. the idea is to mounted in a place where it won't get hot. for the catch can to do its job it has to be cool enough to condensate the vapors in the gases passing by into their liquid form ( oil )

on the 7a, there are 2 hoses (one with a 1 way valve) between the valve cover and the intake plenum. Block off the intake plenum and send hoses from valve cover to the catch tank.

I will post pic tomorrow.

Thanks, I would like to see how some catch cans are setup and some of those theories.

I have not decided on using Megasquirt, the SAFC is doing ok for me right now. We'll see how it goes with the bigger injectors.


As an update, these were the things I ended up not using or would change about my parts list:
- all of the oil filter relocation stuff--I did not relocate my oil filter, I did use of the 90 degree swivel fittings for my oil return line
- the boost controller--since I need to turn down the boost instead, and on an internally wastegated turbo you can adjust the actuator rod to control boost
- the 315cc injectors are too small and will be sold once I install the RC Engineering 370cc injectors
- the BOV recirculation adapter--my BOV is not recirculated at the moment, I'm keeping it in case I decide to later
- the intercooler piping--the 4"x12" 90 degree bends are tighter than the 12"x12", I should have gotten all 3 of the tighter 90's
- and I forgot about the actual intake piping which I need 2 more tight 90 degree bends, we just sourced them from the garage
- the exhaust piping--I needed one more j-bend, didn't need the whole j-bend but still should have gotten one more to begin with
- 10 feet of 3/4" ID heater hose from Home Depot for the intercooler water lines, it's not on the list cause I knew I could just get it locally when the time came

Hey Stef....if ever you think of upgrading management, i would seriously consider the AEM FIC. I just installed it on my 7a and it is awesome. I played around with the wiring a bit again today..and i;m holding boost at about 8psi...with spike up to 10. However that's more my profec's fault.

Also, it tells you injector duty, and like you I have 315's. I'm already maxinng them out. Gonna turn down the FPR a few psi but i need bigger ones.

Can you PM me a link to the ones you are getting?

So I put in the 370cc injectors. I cannot get it to run right with the SAFC, it runs very rich and I'm having a hard time getting it to idle smooth without taking out the max amount of fuel the SAFC will allow (which is 50%) and even then the wideband still reads 11-12:1 afr... so I decided to get the AEM F/IC.

I'm thinking about trying to put the SAFC corrections back to 0 and resetting the ECU. I'm thinking the stock O2 sensor and ECU will try to correct the AFR by itself, once it cannot correct itself anymore I can further correct it with the SAFC, if that makes any sense, or I could just not waste my time and wait until I get the AEM FIC and do it then.

I'm having some problems with my wideband again, it overheats being too close to the turbo and will just freeze. So that being said, I really cannot assume the readings are accurate either. I'll have to get the car back to Manny's sometimes soon to weld a new bung further back in my exhaust.

Dyno soon, I'm thinking Sat the 18th

This post has been edited by hurley97: Oct 7, 2008 - 7:18 PM

Did you already buy the FI/C? Because I've got them, send me a PM and I'll see what I can do for you.

370cc isn't TOO big, but the problem with the SAFC is that you have no control over the timing, so you pull 50% of the fuel out which also advances the timing, which is messing with how the engine runs. The FI/C has timing control as well as better control of the injectors, so it should work quite a bit better.

The wideband sensor is very close to the turbo where it is now, yeah, but you could try building a heat sink for it. There are instructions on how to do it in the Innovate manual, not sure if you have those instructions with your wideband, but basically you take a small piece of copper sheet metal, bend it so that it has a flat spot in the middle and two "wings" on each side, and then drill a hole in the middle. Remove the 02 sensor, then install the heat sink in-between your 02 sensor and the bung (the 02 sensor itself pinches the heat sink in place). The heat transfers to the heat sink instead of the 02 sensor.

-Doc

I did already buy the FIC, ebay for $355 shipped. It should be in on Fri.

I do have those instructions, I think even with the heatsink it's probably too hot where it is. It was as far down as I could put it without relocating the controller itself at the time. I spoke to Cort at Innovate (he remembered me from when I had problems last time) and he said the readings will be just as accurate and he is 100% sure moving it back will solve my problem.

The other thing was that I really shouldn't have to be taking out that much fuel, 50% is way too much. I'm thinking maybe the wideband isn't reading properly right now. I just hope I'm not fouling out the sensor while driving the car really rich for a while.

steff, throwing money at it isnt gonna help.
i told you the wideband wasnt working right, but hey, what would i know, right?
buying the AEM is a waste of money at this point IMO.
the 370's are not the problem, its just a lack of tuning, from the bad wideband readings your getting.

^ so if the wideband was in question.....why not just throw it on the the dyno and end all doubt?