6G Celicas Forums

here's some teaser pics of my setup--- haven't updated in a while, but everything is done except i need my downpipe made and a little wastegate bend... and tune












I Do have a question tho. What is the stock injector size for our 5sfe? I need to know what I pulled out for my tuning software, and for some reason i cant find it anywhere...

k so from what i gathered from bccentaur3, 5sfe stock injectors are 213cc

going with that!

these aren't the finished pics are they? I still see you need an intake, wastegate, downpipe, and oil filter relocation.

the oil lines look great though. and it's good to see my turbo will be put to good use . you have the top part of that T-fitting for the oil feed line blocked off, right?

no they're not the finished pics. everything is done that u just asked about cept the wg and dp.


i'm having a problem tho, possibly with the 2 bar. It seems the 2 bar isn't reading anything but 1.35. when the 2 bar is plugged in im having huge idle problems and continuous idle surge from 500-800 rpms. when the 2 bar is unplugged it idles fine because it seems the computer is guessing that i should be around .85.

why is the 2 bar staying continuous at 1.35??? is the 2 bar broken? is there a way to manipulate it?

note that this is not under boost. I'm trying to tune it to make it drivable so i can get the dp made. i changed the settings for the injectors and am just trying to get the map to work.

i guess another thing i'm asking is, should a 2 bar be any different than a 1 bar in a stock setup. let's say i just swapped the map sensors on a stock car, would anything change? and if so how do i compensate for those changes?

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 2, 2008 - 9:04 PM

sounds like the MAP sensor might be broken. though you say if you unplug it alltogether, the car runs better? that'd odd because if I ever unpluged mine, the car would not run right at all. it would start, barely, and die after a second or two. The difference is, your car is OBDII, so the computer probably substitutes an approximate value if it becomes unplugged.

as for using a 1-bar, it'll work fine for anything up to 0 PSI... in other words, normal running when your manifold is under vacuum, it's fine. but any sort of pressure (boost) and the car will run like crap cause the sensor can't sense boost because it only goes up to 1 bar, on an absolute scale... where 1 bar simply means just atmospheric pressure of 14.7 PSI, which we usually consider 0 PSI and pressures less than atmospheric to be vacuum.

anyway, what are you using to tune?

well that sucks. im using emanage blue to tune.

and yea that is what was happening. when the 2 bar was plugged in it was at constant 1.35 but when i unplugged it the car idled great at a guessed value.


This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 3, 2008 - 2:56 PM

ok the map sensor isnt broken i was runing it in my car before i sent it out. it was working fine..so your sayin when you have the both map sensor off the car idles fine?? that is weird cause all of our cars just die right away or it idles for a min or two then dies??? so the car idles kinda hard huh have u tried and boost the baby at all or drivin the car??

when the map sensor is in, it's like it doesn't read anything, it just stays at a constant value. im not boosting yet just trying to get the car drivable to go to a shop quick. my car seems to guess the value when it's unplugged, but when the map is plugged in idle surge and everything about idle is horrible.

if its not the map sensor, what is wrong???

Hey, John runninglow my buddy called me and told me about this. I really don't believe its your map. I think it would be because you don't have your downpipe connected. With the DP not connected that means your O2 isn't in. When the o2 sensor isn't in, your ecu isn't reading right. If you had a wideband you'll see that your afrs will bounce up and down.

But you don't have a wideband to read afrs because your dp isn't in nor is your o2.

Have you installed larger injectors yet? My car would barely idle with the 2 bar MAP and stock injectors, but when I installed the 460s it improved dramatically.

hey i know this is off-topic but what was the total cost of the project...no need for immediate answer just trying to get a feel for it

Greg, you could be right. btw did you get a new tv? Cable yet?




You can easily do it for 1500 depending on where you get your parts.

and this was w/out doing anything to the engine (internals, pistons, block, spacers?) stuff like that...? for ex. im coming up on 140k...is that safe or should it get new head and whatnot before this is attempted?

does your motor burn or leak any oil? If not do a compression test. If your compression is still good boost the crap out of it without any internal upgrades.

i do have a wideband, but i believe me and runninglow figured it is a vacuum leak going to my bov since its not hooked up yet.
no worries tho anymore, im going to get the downpipe and a bend for the wastegate made tomorrow. ill keep ya guys posted.



yea im all done with that, have 460s, i only need my dp and wg in yet



i spent around 2000 total, no internals. if i had to do it again tho, id prolly spend 2500 for a better setup but still no internals

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 3, 2008 - 10:48 PM

how many miles do you have...im not downing your ability or knowledge, but how long do you expect it to hold up? everything i read says that since this is an F series head its not meant to handle boost (i know there are limits for it but i dont want more than like 240) or would you just run it until engine needs rebuilt anyway (which would be sooner considering added power)

does that make sense?

edit: and how many miles do you have?

This post has been edited by 97celiman: Dec 3, 2008 - 10:52 PM

I turbo'ed mine around 160K, maybe a little less... lasted almost 5K miles... lol. but it wasn't really my engine's fault that my turbo blew up and sent metal into it

mine has 110k. i expect it too last quite a while

I boosted mine at 208,000 and then 1,000 later mine blew hahaha. Then I did the 3s swap.

well, i guess that's it guys...

tried gettin my car a few miles down the road to a welding shop and didn't make it... thought the battery was done and replaced it and it still wouldn't work.
not the starter either, it's the engine im pretty sure...

guess im gonna find a way to get home with the car then part out.