6G Celicas Forums

Ok, I picked the car up this past weekend and had a few more things done. Manny made me a new B-pipe, fixed the pump (turns out the pump was fine, just a cut wire in the loom), painted the raiser blocks, and had the FCD wired in. I have to order the fittings for the new High Performance pump which took some time to track down, so I wasn't able to have them in on time. But Dustin took care of the wiring so it will pretty much be plug and play (the pump runs full time when the car is on, which I wouldn't of had done if I wasn't upgrading to a larger pump)

Wow the car is super smooth, what a difference going from the old GEN2 non-LSD e153 setup to this new GEN3 LSD E-153 setup. Its amazing what a difference the trans made in drive-ablity under boost and WOT. Before there was some decent torque steer that you had to fight when going WOT, not any more. In fact, there is no Torque steer at all! Manny and I went out for a test drive, and I had him drive. OMG, HE IS INSANE!!! Well he REALLY made sure the Celica was up to par under ALLLLLL types of driving conditions to say the least. To prove to me that there was literally no torque steer at all, he put the car in 3rd on the highway and went WOT, only touching the steering wheel with one finger.

The car is so crazy smooth under WOT compared to old setup. Its hard to explain unless you are in it, but it doesn't feel like you are going fast or are making decent power at all.......Except for the fact that you are pinned in your seat and the needle on the speedo is racing around the speedo so fast that you would have any idea, or realize how much power you are actually making. You get to a 100 in a hurry which is only 3rd gear, its amazing.

I have to still play around with the FCD because im still hitting boost cut. I want to be at the very bitter edge when the FCD clamps the voltage to the ECU, because the car goes 100% duty at 17 psi. Boost cut is around 18-19psi. I haven't played with it much yet, but Manny told me the screw is very sensitive, so we will see how it goes.

I am very happy with it so far.

hehe i've been waiting for this post, jim.
good to hear you are enjoying the setup.
and hey, like i said, i'd much rather somthing break while you were here, than have it go on you on the way home or whatever.
...thats my excuse, and im sticking to it.
i must agree on th LSD setup. much, MUCH smoother on boost, and the fact that its with even more power than he had before, makes it even more awesome.
nail it on the highway, and she tracks smooth and straight.
like i said, buy a multimeter, jim, and TINY adjustments on the FCD. once you open the cover, and see how small the screw is, you'll see why i say tiny...lol

Thats great to hear.
Part of that smoothness is because the 2nd gen efi system just sucks total ass compared to the 3rd gen setup.

What kind of fcd are you using?

symtech FCD

make sure that its the type that just clamp the voltage once it gets to 17psi. A lot of the generic ones are just a potentiometer that scales the entire voltage from the map sensor. This would work on a 2nd gen, but would be a really bad idea on a 3rd gen.

Thanks art, yes its an active clamp style FCD. Only clamps voltage at desired psi/voltage.

naa, art, im not talking about the motor at all, although yes, it IS much better than the 2nd gen as far as engine smoothness on and off boost as well.

the smoothness im talking about is when you go WOT, and in an s54 or e153 non lsd, you get that torque steer feeling thru the wheel, and the more power you have, the worst it is (shannons car comes to mind for an extreme example)
with the LSD, you get NONE of that.
it really is worlds better.

Ah I see what you mean.

Jim, after looking around a bit and reading this here we would want the magic # to be around 4.10v, right now yours is set at 4.59 IIRC.

ST205: V = 0.1025*psi + 2.3293 up to a maximum of 5V

honestly I'm not sure if boost cut is at 17 or 18 psi (I've read people use both on different forums)

so if boost cut is at 17psi, you would want it to read 4.07v, if it's 18psi then 4.17v.

Adjusting the unit is easy if you have a multimeter and your compressor. Give your MAP sensor 20psi, then check the voltage like the directions say (positive to the output to the ECU (grey with black stripe going into the engine harness) and negative to the strut tower for ground). At 0psi it will read 2.32, then with 20psi it will read 4.59 like we set it. There is the adjustment screw inside the box, just turn it a hair counter clockwise to decrease the voltage #. Basically, give psi, check voltage, turn screw until it reads 4.17 or a bit lower. I'm going to put mine in and adjust it tomorrow, I'll have some pics for you then.

Congrats guy, the car is done, at least for a little while until you upgrade more

Thanks Dustin, yea I read that as well and from a few of the other posts I have read it seems the INJECTORS go 100% duty at 17psi and thats where you want to clamp the voltage, and 18psi seems to be boost cut. The stock map may just be a bit slower to read, or respond to 18+ psi then my autometer gauge, because like I said earlier, when Manny and I went out we seemed to hit 19psi for a quick while before boost cut.

Nice, yea the FCD is a sweet little unit, you will be happy with it once you iron out your issues with it.

Jim I would like to say that I hate you.

and its not for anything in this thread

great work dude.

I'd be curious to see a short vid if you know anyone with a digi cam that takes video clips
+1 for a Beautiful car and +2 for another lucky WRC find!

hmm I don't get it inside joke?

Ooo and Ill try to get some clips of both mine and Jim's car..I have a few of mine but not sure if the are within the rules here at 6gc.

Yes, we need to get a video together, (and no, i dont think the videos of your car Shannon are within the rules here ) but unfortunately it has been very crappy weather here for the past few weeks.

I will get some pictures up in the next few days, I have added a few more things to the car.....The painted and shaved WRC blocks, A polished J speed Strut Bar (Thank you Shannon), and took off the CT20B and added the "Helper Spring" mod.

I have to wait for decent, dry weather to test out the new helper spring because I need to adjust the FCD to the proper clamping voltage.......otherwise the new "Helper Spring" is useless. Once I have that all squared away I will be running between 21-23psi.......ohhhhh sounds like FUN!!!

Pics and video coming shortly.

TurboXS makes a knock light. It might be a worth while investment if you plan on running that much boost.

Sounds like a good idea.

20+psi daily on the street is not a good idea, IMO jim.
i have 2 words for that.

"knock, knock."

emily and aaron may be able to do it for a few runs on the dyno, to put up a #, but doing it on the street consistantly is a whole diffrent ballgame.

I dont consider 20-23 psi to be "high boost." Yes it is Higher than the normal 18psi normally ran on the 3SGTE.......but not excessive.

The 3SGTE crowd really seems to be lacking in the seen of 20+psi. I dont know why really, when there have been a hand full of members pushing 20+psi on there daily drivers for quite some time now. One that comes to mind ran 29psi on his daily driven, stock-unopened GEN3 with a gt28rs kit. That is HIGH boost. And the motor took it no problem. The bottom end/long-block can take the pressure that 20+psi will put it through without a problem, so as long as Knock isnt a factor, your fine. This is why I like the idea of a knock light, like Art mentioned.

Supra's, Evo's, srt4's all push well into the 20psi range, and have been doing to so for years.....IDK why the 3SGTE crowd is slow to catch on.

Jim, forget about PSI.
10psi, 20psi, 50psi, it all really means nothing. Just cause one car runs that boost doesn't mean another car has to run the same boost to make power. And just because someone claims something, doesn't mean its 110% true. I always hear people talking about some 600hp civic that was in magazine 3yrs ago, and people still assume that car is running today. Most of the time, its not.

There are two problems with pushing the stock 3rd gen motor to such high boost levels.
1. Octane
2. ct20b is a tiny turbo.

Now you have two choices. Bump up the octane, or ditch the turbo.

Hux and ATS had to run race gas to get the numbers they did, and quite honestly, i really doubt either one of them took the car out on the street at those boost levels. Most of that stuff was just done for bragging rights.



I don't know who made that claim, but I call BS on it. 28rs is not big enough for that much boost on pump gas. Maybe Id buy it with the 2871, but not with the normal RS.