6G Celicas Forums

not enough autox haha

Im a Toyota Expert Certified tech, 5S-FE's are bad for distributor o-rings leaking. It doesnt look like they sealed the valve cover gasket right either, get a Toyota VC gasket, remove clean and reseal the half moon seals (at both ends of the exhaust cam) and put some sealant in the corners of the end caps on the intake cam also. looks like your power steering pump is a whole different leak. But yeah, 100% percent of the time if you have oil dripping off the intake manifold, the valve cover is leaking, trust me i do this every day.

thanks! i will have to check those out

well right now i am taking off the oil pan.
but i am stuck at the motor mount part. i needed to take a break before i start that. i need to be mentally prepared for it haha.

the shop that i took it to called on tuesday and said that it was the oil pan and that i have a steering fluid leak too.
they said it would be $250 to change. i was like screw that
so i took it from them and started to do it myself. i just need to take off the crossmember and the stiffener plate rear of the oil pan.

after that i will take a look at the pan seals

it is sealed with an actual rubber gasket and not FIPG or RTV sealant.

.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Jan 28, 2009 - 2:49 PM

Thats probably why its leaking then, mike. They used junk aftermarket gaskets, and then try to blame it on you somehow.
First it was the headgasket, then the timing belt, and now this... all because they used cheap **** when rebuilding the motor. I honestly cant believe that a shop would be so dishonest as to try to bill you for a leaking gasket on a motor they just rebuild less then a year ago.

When you reseal it, make sure you use actual FIPG from the dealer. Its a lot thicker then normal rtv.

kk will do. i will have to pick some up from toyota. im held up right now because my brain wont let me take out the rear motor mount so many bad memories with that

im going to get some now actually, parts dept. is open still

so it is off.

i took it off and the gasket fell apart, it came off into pieces. there where 2 area's where it seems that there could have been a leak.

i picked up some FIPG. i cleaned all the org. gasket residue offf

i am sanding the oil pan down and repainting it. then i will put everything back together to see if it is fixed

hopefully thats the culprit...what a PITA...hope you get it all back together and it fixes it mike....f-in 5s...after all this you shoulda just droped a 3s in!! lol

i hope its worth it
im cleaning it now and am going to paint it, do a couple coats and then leave it to dry over night.

tomorrow will be a good day. i am picking something up. im not sure if i should put it on, or wait until i fix this problem hrmmmm

turbo?

Id say you found the problem.
Damn those cheap aftermarket gaskets. You figure they couldn't manage to mess up something made out of rubber, but they always find away. Aftermarket = junk.

Edit: actually i bet you thats one of those cork or paper gaskets they love to use.







fixed

This post has been edited by lagos: Jan 2, 2009 - 8:50 PM

i actually took it off the other day a$$holes haha

turbo. i dunno

everything is back on. just letting it settle. hope there arent any spots on the ground in the morning.
6 straight hours of working on her. the most i have ever spent in one sitting. i gotta lot done thought.
haha broke a bolt for the front crossmember in the hole other than that it went well. still have a bit more to do tho

HI Guys. I'm brand new to this forum, and this sounds so familiar. I did the dizzy o-ring, fought with the crossmember and did the oil pan gasket, etc., and guess what it was the rear main seal. UGH-. This leak is very hard to diagnose because it travels down the crossmember and other things and it drips from many spots. The giveaway drip is the one thats coming from the little square weephole that is on the bottm of the girdle -like thing that is between the engine and tranny(mine is auto). This is my first time dealing with an engine pull in a front wheel drive car and its a PITA. especially the wiring harness on these cars, they way it is routed thru the intake manifold.
Has anyone done the rear seal before? Any tips? The motor will be out of my car and is getting lots done while its out- water pump, head, front seal, etc.

actually, you should pull the harness out along w/ the engine. 2 bolts where the harness goes into the firewall, and 4 plugs. 3 on the ECU and one on the heater blower. makes it SO much easier.

Yes thats what I did.The motor's on the stand finally- It should be fun figuring how to take the harness off the engine!