6G Celicas Forums

Alternator went out, burnt some wires. Got fresh wires soldered in to replace the burnt ones.
Now the car is in good and running order, nothing inside seems sluggish. I had everything I could on while driving 10 mile trip to and from.
E lights, rear defrost, wipers, radio full blast, heat full blast. The car made it without no issues.

No corrosion at battery.
Charged the battery before putting in, but battery was good previously.
I also tried a different good working battery. (light still on)
Battery cable ends are tight.
All the negative cable, and grounds are tight on both ends.
Alternator belt is secure and tight, but not too tight.
All the connections on the alternator are secure.
Brand new alternator.

Please help. I'm stumped.

This post has been edited by 99GT: Jan 3, 2009 - 10:35 PM

I don't see "replaced alternator" in there.

Brand new $150 alternator.

wire could have burn for the sensor to the light, is your voltage at least 13.6 at idle?

You mean check the voltage from my battery with a multimeter? I'd still have to check that I guess.

How much is the sensor to the light? Where is it located? Any other things I could still check before buying more things?

I'll double check the alternator belt.

This post has been edited by 99GT: Jan 3, 2009 - 10:42 PM

with the car running, yes

Does anyone have the part number for the battery light sensor? If it comes down to that. Thanks.

What else can it be? Thanks.

So I don't have a multimeter. So what would it be the cause if it was higher or lower than 13.6?

the sensor is in the alt

new alternator so sensor should be good.

oi meant the wire between the alt and the dash light. its pretty much a direct wire

So I would have to replace that wire?

eh its integrated. check the voltage first.

So got it tested... everything is fine.

Some friends said that it could be that I need a tune up?

Spark plugs, wires, cap, etc.

Could it just be that I need a tune up? But battery light was never on before the alternator swap.

No.

Have the alternator tested, it could be defective.

After work I'll take the alternator in to have it tested.

Is there a fuse for the alternator?

yes, its a 100 amp fuse in the fuse/relay box under the hood

NEVEREVER assume the brand new part you bought is 100% fail proof.

Get your charging system tested at your local parts store. I know at AUTOZONE/ Kragen they test your battery/ charge system for free.

a tune up doesn't affect your alt. light.

It can be a bad voltage regulator in the alt that is causing your light to turn on.

Do a very simple test.

Turn your headlights on against a wall at night with the engine running for 5 minutes and then turn off your engine.

If your headlights are brighter against the wall with the engine off, then your alternator is not making power and you will need to get your brand new alternator replaced.

Got everything checked out from Checkers. Everything was fine.

Last night my sis bought me a new battery for xmas. Talked to the guy at oreilly about it, he was stumped and wanted to see my car tonight. I'll see what he comes up with.

Could I have burn some wires further up the wire leading to the gauge cluster?

Also the light was still on after the new battery. Took the negative and positive off for 5-6 hours and had them back on but the light never goes away.

I checked the 100A alt fuse, looks good but that was at night, haha I'll re check the amp after work.

I'll do what you said tonight.

This post has been edited by 99GT: Jan 6, 2009 - 8:05 AM

my light comes on sometimes and I have to pop the hood, get that cluster of wires that plugs into the alternator and push them in while wiggling. I don't see it move, but when I go back to my gauge cluster to see if the battery light is still on, if I did it right it goes away. I guess I need a new one or something.