6G Celicas Forums

How To – Mounting Bonnet Struts
Tools:

12mm socket
10mm socket
10mm spanner
Screwdriver

Time:@20-30 minutes

Here is the package I received.

Lift bonnet and use the bonnet stay to keep it up.
Start at the right side of the engine bay (as you face the engine from in front of the car).
Although instructions were provided, I found it easier by doing the following:
Procedure:

1. Remove the retaining clip from the bonnet strut
2. Attach the replacement bolt/pivot to the bonnet strut
3. Replace the retaining clip
Note: It’s a lot easier doing it this way because, once mounted, you will not be able to get that clip in.

4. Undo the bolt in the wing that holds the rubber bonnet stop (10mm socket)

5. Place the 2 washers (supplied) into position and then screw the bolt/pivot into position (10mm spanner)
Note: Be careful not to strip the thread, it’s a little fiddly so just take your time and be patient

6. Remove the retaining clip from the other end of the bonnet strut
7. Attach the replacement plate/pivot to the bonnet strut
8. Replace the retaining clip
Note: It’s a lot easier doing it this way because, once mounted, you will not be able to get that clip in.
9. Remove the upper bolt of the bonnet hinge (12mm socket)
10. Place the plate/pivot (not marked – see note below) into position and using the original bolt secure in place (12mm socket). You may need to lift and support the bonnet in order for the original bolt to locate properly.

Note: Make sure that you have the right plate/pivot for that side. One plate/pivot had a sticker on it marked ‘R’, the other had no sticker or marking. The ‘R’ refers to the right BUT is as you sit in the car looking forward.
The following picture shows one reason why I attached the plate/pivot to the strut first.

11.That’s one side done.

11. Repeat steps 1 – 10 for the other side.
Note: The only difference I found was that I had to remove the washer jet tube located by the bonnet hinge.



13. Once you have done both sides, you can remove the bonnet stay. It’s retained in the slam panel by a round plastic clip.
• Manoeuvre the stay towards you
• Wiggle it around a bit and it should easily pop out, leaving the round plastic clip in the slam panel
• Remove the plastic clip by easing it out with a screwdriver.

14. Job done.

This post has been edited by 3TST: Jan 17, 2009 - 2:05 PM

Awesome write-up! Sticky this! I think alot of people will be doing this.

It is a nice kit and works well, but the 'stainless' steel suffers from corrosion problems. Not sure if it is just a duff batch but almost all ccuk members who have fitted it have since reported the same quick corrosion on the surface of the metal. Good writeup!

This post has been edited by BloodyStupidDavey: Jan 16, 2009 - 5:31 PM

I've heard that the bonnet struts are very powerful and work great for a stock (heavy) st204/2 hood but might be too powerful for the lightweight st205 hood.
Can you confirm ?
Would installing just one side be enough to support the 205 hood ? or would 2 be nessessary ?

I've been wanting these for a while now. Where did you buy yours?

exactly... the same thing came in my mind as well. ST205 hood is so fragile...

is this an ebay deal or something else

or better yet what did you type into ebay, cuz i typed in celica hood strut and it just does hood strut

This post has been edited by 97celiman: Jan 17, 2009 - 2:38 AM

I have a 205 hood and it works just fine. One strut would probably also keep it up but wouldn't like to think about how it might flex if you chose to do some work on the car in high or gusting winds.

For a carbon fibre hood, you would either need to be extremely gentle and cautious or look for a different solution. I wonder if sokie tech do the struts in different strengths as obviously all the fittings and the length would be the same - you just want something a little weaker.

Yea, they are an ebay seller. The manufacturer is Sokie Tech, the ebay shop is G Force Dynamic Performance and the seller is alvoturk9000.


This post has been edited by BloodyStupidDavey: Jan 17, 2009 - 12:53 PM

my next upgrade
thanks to share

This post has been edited by celica3000: Jan 18, 2009 - 12:49 PM

Yes, the only thing with this kit is that, as it is designed for the Celica ST and GT models which have a lot heavier bonnet, when fitted to a 205 (ally) or CF bonnet it is quite powerful, that is, after lifting the bonnet up over 12" in height it literally flips up - so mind your chin
I just hang onto the bonnet and ensure it eases up smoothly.

I know someone that installed just one but there bonnet flexed and twisted so I would recommend fitting 2.

Got them off Ebay, see Bonnet Struts made in Taiwan

This post has been edited by 3TST: Jan 17, 2009 - 2:06 PM

3TST
THE HOOD WITH THESSE STRUTS YOU CAN CLOSE THE HOOD
THANKS

It would appear everyone is following in my footsteps

The winter has taken its toll on mine and the top stainless part will have to be sanded and painted before show season

arrive and installing
nice mod
thanks to share

so im in the process of doing this and the strut doesnt quite match up with the hood piece. (its a little long) and no matter how hard i push it, it wont compress. thoughts?

When I put mine in they were a little long too. I just lifted my hood up higher than it normally rests and popped it in with little trouble.

Here's the specs for the hood dampers for those who wants to attempt making your own: *You don't have to follow the way it mounts neccesary if you can custom fabricate.*

As far as how much force they produce, I can not tell you as I am not able to compress them by hand without damaging them. They both should hold the weight of the hood, but with enough ease should easily compress with the weight of the hood closing. Don't recall how much the oem hoods weigh.

At full extension the height is 20.75 inches. At fully compressed height it gives way to 13.5 inches to 14 inches.
1.

The top portion that stays stationary with the strut is 3.5 inches / diameter of .477 inch / circumference of 1.5 inch
2.

The black gas strut is 8.75 inches / diameter of .716 inch / circumference of 2.25 inches
3.

The bottom extender portion is 8.5 inches / diameter of .318 inch / circumference of 1 inch
4.

The bottom extension shaft is .5 inch before it hits the ball joint. The ball joint is .637 inch in diameter with a circumference of 2 inches.
5.

Top Stationary Ball Joint (same spec as number 2) the ball joint is also .637 inch in diameter with a circumference of 2 inches.
6.

Adapter Plate: Bottom=1.25 inch / Left side=2 inches / Top=1.5 inch / Right side before it bends=1 1/16 inch / Bottom of flap=.5 inch / Right side of flap=.75 inch
7.

10 Mil Bolt with a ball joint that fits just about the same size as the bolt. Same thing as the adapter plate ball joint.
8.

Metal Clips inserts into the ball joint of the extension arms and holds the bolt ball joint or adapter plate ball joint into place.
9.

Metal Clip Locking into place. Notice how the extension ball joint has holes for the metal clip to insert.
10.

ya i got it all thats what i had to do was lift the hood up higher but its all good now

What's everyone's review on these after install?

did you experience rusting?
does anyone got a solution for it?

My car's been in the rain a few times....haven't seen anything bubbling yet on the chrome parts. What my initial plan was to insert a strip of rubber guards along the side of the hood to protect the hood dampers from water as a means of water run-off. I have yet to do it.

As far as the power of these, I've propped my hood up for about a little over a month now and they're still holding up. (My crank went bad which is why the hood has been up)

Otherwise a good investment for the looks.

This post has been edited by ZGear: Sep 23, 2009 - 7:39 PM

keep em well oiled or dry. as the corrosion may cause to damage the strut seals.