6G Celicas Forums

So back when Prodigy was buying all the parts for his swap, he decided to go with an E153 tranny and Quaife LSD. However, he decided to move the timeframe up on the 3S swap we weren't ready to put the E153 in, so we ended up doing the swap using the S54 (swap was done in 22 hours over 3 days).

This past week, his throw-out bearing decided to bite the dust, and since we had to pull the tranny anyway, we figured we might as well go ahead and do the E153 swap. The tricky part is first we have to install the Quaife LSD. I'm a huge fan of Quaife and have been for years, but I've never actually installed one before.

I knew that the c-series transmissions could be taken apart to access the diff without removing everything the "normal" way by unbolting the case, splitting it apart an inch or so, and then unbolting the reverse lever. I was hoping that the E153 worked the same way, and sure enough, it does:







Old diff and quaife:



Bearings, ring gear and speedo gear being removed and transferred over to quaife:



Awaiting a new bearing, etc



So, the diff came out no problem, and from there I knew that I had to swap over the ring gear, speedo gear, and both bearings. One of the bearings came off with a three-jaw puller with a little fuss. The other one, unfortunately was damaged when the puller slipped on our fourth or fifth attempt.

This is one job I would have happily paid a transmission shop to do, but everyone that we spoke to locally had NO CLUE what they were talking about when it came to a FWD LSD.

--------------------------------------3-3-09--------------------

Actually I have completed the Quaife install and I did it all the RIGHT way, but it was quite a process. In fact, I just got it in the car this past weekend. I was waiting to get the axles all figured out and have the completed pics ready to share, but since you asked, I'll spill the beans early.

First of all, no one knows anything about measuring bearing preload. Everyone I talked to, including people who install Quaife LSDs, either had no idea what I was talking about, or knew about it but said something to the effect of, "oh yeah, we always skip that part" or "oh, I just do it by hand".

This whole situation really concerned me for two reasons. One, it went against the way I do things which as most of you guys know, is by the book and the best I possibly can. Second, I didn't want to burn up a $1400 diff! So after getting to this point in the build, I determined where the shims were located and how to replace them to measure the preload, as well as what order to do it in (that was a little confusing in the manual). Also, I had to purchase a 0-30 in/lb range torque wrench since nothing else would measure accurately down that low. That took a while to find.

Finally I got it, and also bought a press to properly install the new bearings (I did replace both sides). First I did the initial step of measuring the preload which you do with only the output shaft. Once that number was determined, I did it with the diff and output shaft installed.

With the output shaft only, it measured just barely on the high side for used bearings which I felt okay with. Then I took the case back apart and installed the diff. As soon as I bolted the case back up I knew that it was too tight since it was hard to turn the output shaft by hand. I measured it and sure enough, it was way out of spec (too tight). This was a little frustrating because I would have to order shims from Toyota, but at the same time I felt validated about making sure I checked the preload.

The next weekend I got the shims in, and I had decided to go just one step down on the output shaft shim as well to get it into spec. That part went fine. Then I started going down with the differential shims, one at a time. I took that case apart and put it back together like 6 times that day!!!! But finally I got it perfect, right under the top of the range. I had ordered several sizes of shims to make sure I got the one I needed (I ended up going down about 3 sizes. There are like 20 sizes in total).

It's been a pretty long process but the experience I've gained (and the tools I've bought!) will be invaluable for future installs



Pressing the bearings on:



Preparing to bolt the case on to measure preload:



This was the catalyst that inspired us to put the E153/Quaife in. This disc was a cheap one made by a local clutch shop, it was only supposed to be in there for a couple weeks while we installed the Quaife. We didn't even start working on it until about 4 months later when it blew









The broken springs got behind the flywheel and chewed up the rear main seal housing. It was okay though thankfully.



Putting the E153 together for the LAST TIME!







Bolting it up. It's a tight fit in the Celica.





Why yes, that is a Quaife!



Right now the axle guru is busy figuring them out, and then we'll put it back on the road and try it out!

----------------------------------------4-9-09------------------

Little update, finally got the axles figured out. Got a sweet setup that works perfectly using off-the-shelf parts.





The car is just amazing with all the traction. Next up is tires, springs/struts, exhaust and boost controller.

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Apr 9, 2009 - 10:44 PM

beast ^^

mad props to you Doc...you need to really move out here to the west coast and open a shop...i meant it...hurry up!!

Was there a specific online bgb you used to help guide you during the install?

well dont leave us in the dark, what did you do for the axles. im going to convert my spare ST185 tranny to FWD for my 6th gen and ill need axles. i already have a spare set of All-Trac axles.

PS excellent pics!

Another question, what car did the E153 come from? did you have to change the selector shaft to teh other side. the MR2's have it on the wrong side but a converted All-Trac tranny its on the back side like the S54

This post has been edited by Smaay: Apr 10, 2009 - 9:42 AM

I used the MR2 Turbo BGB for the rebuild (non-LSD transmission).

I actually just need to go by the axle shop and pick, up the info, the guy who built them has them. I think I'll be able to supply these axles to you guys.

This E153 was from a Camry V6.

-Doc

SWEET tweak! alright hopefully u can supply us the axle stuff!! haha well call u

good sh!t

is it a 1 way or 1.5 way? how does it go when locking mid corner under power? doesnt understeer or anything?

Looks like those box's use a gearbox oil cooler too hey?

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Apr 11, 2009 - 12:18 AM

It's a Helical Gear LSD, so it's not measured quite like that. It transfers power smoothly from one wheel to the other. Actually, under power while cornering results in a bit of oversteer. It feels a lot like a RWD now

Yeah, they sure do.

-Doc

Very sweet

damn u tweak i have to get this done in the future!
adding it to my never ending list lol

nice, now do u know anybody who can rebuild the stock lsd? took it out of the broken tranny//

Maybe a transmission shop. I know that Toyota won't even touch it. I like your avatar by the way. Is it someone you know? I think you should email me the high-res version

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Apr 27, 2009 - 1:05 PM

1 way, 1.5 way, or 2 way?

It's an ATB so it's not measured the same way. These are designed to also be used with front-wheel drive vehicles so there's no worry about it causing understeer (actually it makes the Celica oversteer a good bit under acceleration).

-Doc

Fantastic job as always. I think the main reason i give you so much praise for your work is because you share the same mantra as me "follow everything by the book." And the results show.

The only complaint i have about this build is the ugly orange sealant. Couldn't you use black rtv?

Thanks

I suppose that you could

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Oct 5, 2009 - 2:22 PM

Is there any way to repair the pictures in this thread???

have to hit up dr_tweak to see if they're still on his server.

We still have the pictures. I'll just have to reload them with photobucket when I get the chance.

-Cam, Tweak'd Performance