6G Celicas Forums

My car has the 8-speaker premium setup with two amps. I’ve replaced the two subs/drivers in the front doors with some Sony speakers (they were rattling the door panels), but I would like to know if It would be possible to power a small subwoofer in the trunk with the existing amps?

I don't think you'll find a subwoofer with the specs to match the amp, and if you do, it won't be worthy, just get an aftermarket amp and subwoofer combo.

Can anyone indicate what each of the two amplifiers in my setup actually do? I know there is an amp under my drivers seat, and there is also an amp near the climate controls. Why is there a need for two, and can anyone tell me which one powers the two 8" subs? I found this as a referance, but I'm still a little confused....Thanks.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...l=premium+sound

the amp beneath the driver seat powers the 8" subs in the doors

Thanks for the reply

the doors come with mid bass, not sub woofers and unless he finds mid bass speakers or sub woofers that require the same power as the stock ones, he'll fry the stock amp. I'm not sure what the stock mid bass power requirements are, but I'm sure they are stamped on them, so look at it and try to match the specs as much as possible, if you are going to use the stock amp.

I wouldn't do that, I wouldn't use the stock amp with any other speakers, midrange or subwoofer.
The stock amp provides "weak" power because the vibrations can cause damage to doors and the rest of the car. That's why all the standard, factory sound systems never provide more than - let's say - 2x20w rms, 4x20 w rms etc.
You thought that, for example, Toyota couldn't create powerful sound systems like Pioneer, JBL etc., and sell them as an extra option to the car? I think they could do that, but they thought about rattle noises that might be caused by that. Not to mention that you must be able (while listening to music loudly) to hear the police, ambulance an firemen' s sirens in traffic.

I recommend you to use a 4x75 - 4x100 w rms amplifier instead of the standard one. Replace the factory 20 cm (8 inch) speakers with 20 cm kickwoofers (available from few brands - Ground Zero Audio for example). They are a little expensive, but they worth the money. In parallel, on the same channels as the 8 inch woofers, you can (and should) mount 1 set of tweeters.
In the back panels you cand easily install 6,5 inch (165 mm) kickwoofers or even full range speakers.
All of the speakers should have around 70-120 w rms, except for the tweeters (~25w rms should be enough and safe to use with amp, if provided with high pass filters).
You can also apply noise sealant (I don't know how it's called exactly, but I'm talking about Dynamat, Standartplast, Stinger, Brax etc.) inside the doors and the back panels, to eliminate the undesired vibrations and get the best out of your sound system.

I don't recommend installing a subwoofer in the trunk, just because of the weight. Any subwoofer, no matter how small it is, will weight more than 20 kilos (up to 100 kilos or even more) and I think nobody wants to add extra weight to the car. It doesn't matter if your engine is 7afe or 3sgte, you will definitely feel every extra 10 kilos.

Good luck!

those "weak" stock amps are JUST ONLY for what is connected to it now. If you want to power a sub get another amp.

For a good 210mm woofer, I might suggest the 210 CA1, from Focal's Access 1 line. I picked my set up for C$199, so you should be able to find it for cheaper; Crutchfield has them for US$249, and Sonicelectronix for $170.

It's Focal's entry-level line, but that's sort of like saying it's a low-end Lexus. http://www.focal-fr.com/ -- lot of information on the site specific to the 210 CA1.

an amp is an amp if you are not going competition. Also you can get a regular non-popular brand and itll do just fine as long as you don't abuse it. price is the biggest player in this market.

I guess a speaker is a speaker too then...

Total Harmonic Distortion or Transient distortion will give you the quality of the clarity of an amplifier. I have an ARC Audio amp on my current highs (3 way component setup) and used to have a Kicker Amp. Kicker ran 10% and ARC .01% at 100 watts 4 OHMs. And the ARC kills the Kicker. Quality of sound is definitely going to be more evident in highs then subs. But amps is where most people screw up their system. But then again I am setting up mine for SQF Comps.

Like i said if you just want it for listening then an amp is an amp. You are picking on little details. Ive tried many combinations of speakers and amps, set up many cars, and bottom line is - car audio is all about tuning and combination of your setup. If you just want better sound and not going competition an amp is an amp but I believe speakers are a different story, we are not superhuman to notice those stats just by our ears. If he was going competition my answer would have been different. I never said a speaker is a just a speaker.

This post has been edited by trdproven: May 31, 2009 - 11:28 PM

Your talking from your personal experience. And yes you can hear differences between amplifiers as much as speakers. My speakers in my car are too sensitive for a cheap amplifier. You will hear the quality difference between some amp that runs 10% interference and .1%. Clarity is going to be the main difference. My speakers are going to pickup the imperfections of a cheaper amp. Maybe I'm just a lot more picky then most people. I'm going to have a system well worth over 5K in the car and a home entertainment system that's over 6k. When I'm listening to my music I want it as real as possible. People go cheap on amplifiers and short change their systems.

If he bought focals and bought a cheap amp it would be a complete waste of money. But no reason to argue back and forth cause i'm not going to change your opinion and your not gonna change mine.

Thanks for all the information. I was just trying to keep it simple (or cheap ) by using the existing amplifier. I figured I'd ask here before I did anything rash, but I assumed that the stock system would be too weak. Is there any way I can get a hold of some similar 8" mid-range subs that could be powered by the stock system? If not mid-range, does anyone know of some 8" full-range speakers that could be substituted in there with the stock setup?

Market does not sell weak 8" sub wattage. Mine is Kickers but they are midsubs because they are narrow. Original owner put them in with the stock amp and it killed the stock amp. I bought new speakers, exactly the same, and amped it to crossfire amp. Now it is good.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 3, 2009 - 8:11 AM

Perhaps you should read up about five posts?

Yes, but would that work with my stock setup? I would think 80 RMS per speaker would be too much for the stock amp? I remember seeing 25 Watts stamped on the stock 8" mids/subs, but I have no idea if that was RMS or peak power.

the lowest RMS 8" midrange speaker I could find was a kicker that ran 40RMS I highly doubt you'll find a 8" with that low of an output. Just get a small 2 channel amp and put it under the seat. plenty ppl have done it.

probably the kickers TRDproven has. Kicker 04SSMB8. probably the cheapest 8s on the market because they discontinued it.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p2591/04SSMB8--K...ge-speakers.htm

This post has been edited by chucho: Jun 3, 2009 - 3:51 PM

Heh, if you want cheap 8-inch woofers: http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searc...&srchPromo=

The SSMB8 are actually more expensive than when they were in production -- back then you could have them for $80.

I don't necessarily want something cheap, just something decent I know the stock amp could power efficiently. What's the deal with those cheap paper coned subwoofers? How can they claim 100+ watts RMS? That's more than a lot of brand name ones can claim. Can anyone elaborate on their boastful specs?