6G Celicas Forums

Hey guys,

I was about to put back on my fogs on the car when I thought, it would look nice if I could turn on the fogs with the parking lights alone. Is there any way I could re-wire the fogs to come on whenever I turn on the parking lights alone??? I thought that there would be a remote wire or something of the sort that turns it on, but not too sure. Right now, they can only come on when I turn the headlights on(factory setting). I also have the factory lights switch inside where you can turn on and off the fogs when the headlights are on too. People may have "How-to's" for this, but I have searched and haven't found anything about this yet. Please, if you can help me out it would be much appreciated.



Thanks, Ryan

Yes - it's very easy in fact. Just splice them in to your side marker lights, and they'll come on when you turn on your parking lights.

Thanks a lot Griffy, you always come through for me.


Thank you so much, Ryan

This post has been edited by str8thugginit4ya: Jul 2, 2009 - 5:26 PM

this is what the 5th gen guys do

http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/fogs.htm

it should work with ours, the relay is under the dash behind the fuse box

pictuired here kinda



from here

Thanks a lot for the info. I re-wired it today, now I have to get back in the backyard and finish up the body work on my bumper. Thanks again for the threads and the info.

Malpaso did an awesome write-up here.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=64630

I wouldn't wire up to the parking lights for power just because you want to use the relay for turning it on with the headlights. You will be pulling an extra 55watts on top of the parking light. You will pull too much power from your parking lights which it cannot handle and possibly burn your harness to the point where it becomes an electrical problem. That is the reason why fogs need to be run seperately or through its own relay. Ever wonder why accessories always have its own independant wiring, fuse, or relay? Because thats the way its suppose to be. However I could see it work if you only use the relay wire of parking light but DO NOT USE it also for power.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jul 5, 2009 - 4:55 AM

I wired it that way and have been fine for 6 months. I don't believe the draw on fogs is really that strong. I'd understand if you swapped them for HIDs, but with stock halogens there shouldn't be such a draw to short your harness.

The biggest issue I foresee happening would be killing my battery at night/not giving enough time for the alternator to kick back power to the battery.

The reason why they have their own relay is solely to turn them on and off under different conditions (on without any other lights, on with only highs, etc.) Since I have them come on whenever the parking lights are turned on, they only come on when I turn on my headlights (who drives around with only parking lights on?). I'd rather pull power from the running lights than from the headlights.

If you really wanted to be safe, you'd wire power directly from the battery with a relay and switch inside the cabin. This seems like overkill for something this small.

-TC

This post has been edited by razor7: Jul 5, 2009 - 7:41 PM

I'm sure what I should do. I understand what everyone is saying about the pulling too much power from the parking lights, but doesn't HID's supposed to draw LESS power than halogens??? The reason why I ask is because I amplanning to get HID's for the fogs as well.

HIDs actually pull in a large amount of power all at once, then slowly trickle it out. Ever notice how they take longer to "warm up?" Halogens technically draw more power if you look at standard usage, but HIDs pull more all at once. This puts a huge strain on your battery if you try and crank the car. Personally, I feel like our cars were never made for HIDs. They weren't around at the time when these cars were sold, there is no reason why they're needed. Halogen projetors though, those are quite nice.

-TC

This post has been edited by razor7: Jul 6, 2009 - 2:47 AM

HIDs pull more power upon warm up after that it settles down into the 35 watt range supposedly. As you have wired your fogs to your parking lights you are drawing too much power from that wire an extra 55 watts, I've seen people burn their harnesses and wiring all the way through just from extra wattage. If you understand electrical right fuses, amps, wiring gauge, wattage draw, etc., all have a meaning. Never do what is not suppose to be done, just because people have had for 6 months or whatever, this site is suppose to teach you how to do things right and legit for the most part, not rigging it. Just run seperate wiring and call it a day - simple as that. If your mindset is stuck in shortcutting and rigging, your car will not stay nice or last very long.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jul 6, 2009 - 2:55 AM

That's funny.

Yeah, I rigged my car... Are you kidding me? I spent much time splicing into stock cables and doing a proper wiring job. I can guarantee that the electrical draw from just the front running lights is not NEARLY as bad as you think, and worst case scenario is that I blow a fuse/drain my battery. I know all about wattage, amperage, in line fuses, etc. I'm a hardware technician, it's part of my job.

Don't question my car's integrity. You've never seen it, you've never been in it, and you've certainly have never touched anything on it. I take pride in my work, and riggin it is NOT an option for me. Simply splicing into a harness to pull power, power that was not being used by that socket in the first place, does not indicate a rigged car.

I could see it becoming an issue if you DID NOT solder/cover everything properly. I could understand if you just twisted a pair together and figure'd it would be fine. However, spending the time to make sure that they are spliced in correctly, and with no room for fault (wires touching, coming untethered, etc.) will ensure integrity. Seeing as how it's lasted for 6 months with no issues, I'm going to figure that the only way for me to blow my harness at this point would be to have a huge fluctuation in power draw at one interval. For instance, if the wires were to cross creating a short. This is impossible to do on my car currently. The only other way would be if water got into the fogs themselves, which I check for cracks every day. If anything, this extra power draw would create a brown-out for the running lights and fogs, causing the halogens to actually burn up from too little power. Since I check my lights daily, I'll know at the first sign of a brown-out.

Just because it's not what YOU do doesn't mean it's not VIABLE. I will gladly keep my wiring the same, and if I have any issues with it I'll let you know. Until then, putting down my work, my car, and myself will not make you any friends.

Your friend's harness died from a **** job on how he spliced it in. Duct tape doesn't fix everything.

-TC

This post has been edited by razor7: Jul 9, 2009 - 5:15 AM

^ Like I said why even risk those potential problems in the first place. What do you mean talk about my car, look at my profile of parts - real legit. I don't cheap out on anything. I never said my way is the right way it is just one of the many options. And just to let you know i've been lead Hardware technician, application, servers, enterprise equipment, server infrastructure, database admin, communications technician, and Command information representative for the Navy so don't tell me what you do for a living, there is no relevance. If you say you are a hardware technician (NOT even an electrical technician) you cannot even speak for those who do it legit with guidelines, policies, and safety requirements they have to follow, you just failed that installation if I audited your work. Bottom line just do it right the first time instead of thinking you know you are doing it right. Toyota will laugh at your installation especially car enthusiast who live on OEM quality and pay attention to details. But honestly I really don't care about your car, I just stand by my beliefs. I don't know why I even bother arguing.

Whoa! It's getting a little heated in here. Both ways seem very logical and proven to work. Every and anything can be done in just about more than one way. When it comes to the right way, I can not tell you, because there is always someone out there that thinks different.

My penis is bigger than all y'alls. So there.



PS: I've been running my fogs spliced into my parking lights for over a year now, with no problems. HOWEVER - personally it's not the way I want them run, I'd rather have a relay but mainly because I want independent control over the lighting. And I have a fancy button that I really wanna use.

So back up a little bit... What's wrong with the way Batman did it??? I thought he just replaced the relay with a couple of wires, tricking the car into turning the fog lights on.

nothing.

There is many different ways to do different things not every way is correct. I'd pick safe and correct as possible.

TRDProven, I admire the way you are so disciplined in how you like to do everything in the correct way with no shortcuts. Although you may have your mind made up about this already, but doesn't the way Batman runs his fogs a correct way as well? Correct me if I'm wrong, but you are not messing with any power supply for the fogs, so you cannot over-work the power supply as it is factory. The only thing I see you doing in Batman's method is changing the remote wire. Now, I may not be a super electrician, but I know a lot about Audio systems; the only thing a remote wire is responsible for is controlling the on and off switch. I don't see how that can, in ANY way, ruin your electrical system. Just trying to justify not criticize anyone. Please let me know if I'm wrong or not, would really like to know.

I never said Dustin was wrong, I was just speaking in general. Dustin's install looks very similar to Malpaso's and mine is pretty similar as well. But the parking light thing, my friend connected his fogs to his parking lights with his car and it burned his harnesses. Honda actually had to replace all the wiring only because it affected all his lighting. Again, it did last him a while till the tragedy happened.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jul 9, 2009 - 12:21 AM