6G Celicas Forums

yup...im going to need the a/c especially when im shiping my celi to vegas

This post has been edited by aznpnoiboi55: Jul 7, 2009 - 4:57 AM

You are probably choking on fuel man - how much tuning have you done yet?

You have a AEM wideband : USE IT!!! What's your AFR while idling? This is the best tool money can buy for tuning an engine, use it!

yea just sounds like you need to get some fuel out of the lo throttle points.

I'm guessing the AEM is reading (---) right now

tune it asap and you shouldnt have bought the neo

This post has been edited by LewFX: Jul 7, 2009 - 4:16 PM

why shouldnt he have "bought the neo"?

its got 4 more rpm points, and a cool display, but you loose the knock count feature.
it really dont make a diffrence either way.
the SAFC NEO will do the same job the SAFCII will do.

There is nothing wrong with the NEO.

Set up your RPM points and pull 20% fuel from your lowest RPM setting to about 1500rpms, then try restarting your car. Wait for the car to warm up, and continue to pull fuel until you see better AFR's from your Wideband.

14.7-15 are Perfect AFR's.

The lack of Knock response kills it for me

It has nothing to do with knock "response" as neither the SAFCII or the NEO will "respond" to knock. The SAFCII shows you a "knock/noise value", but doesnt respond to it. Basically useless.

Any instructions on how to do that?

Go into Settings....then air map.....then use the "select button" to scroll between high and low throttle. Once you are on low throttle, use the "left and right buttons" to scroll through the RPM points. Once at your desired RPM points (first few up to about 2000rpms) use the "up and down buttons" to pull "fuel". You are going to want negative values here.....(-20%)

By pulling 20% (-20%) in the first few spots up until 2000rpms should allow your car to keep a constant idle without stalling out. If it can in fact keep an idle long enough to get the car all warmed up, you can start pulling fuel until your AFR's look a bit more normal.

Do I need my stock o2 sensors to operate? Or can I just run with my wide band o2 sensor?
And I'm also having another problem... My safc stopped working ...we checked all the connections and nothing...

This post has been edited by aznpnoiboi55: Jul 8, 2009 - 6:29 PM

Yes, you want to have your stock o2 Sensor in and working.

Check the grounds for the wiring to the SAFC.

Do I want to keep the one before or after the cat?

you will want to keep them both, but you may need to fool the one after the cat as it might throw a CEL. do this with the antifouler trick its pretty easy.

This post has been edited by D_Dawg: Jul 9, 2009 - 12:58 AM

You HAVE to keep the one Before the cat.

Will it make a diff if I used the one after? Cuz I got the bung for it

You HAVE to hook the factory 2 bolt o2 Sensor back up, period. If you bought a bung for the "second" o2 sensor that was after the factory cat, feel free to ADD (meaning your factory 2 bolt o2 is already in place) that as well.

That's what I meant - poor choice of words. But the fact that it shows you the "value" allows you to respond to it by backing off the throttle if you see anything you don't like. On my old setup that was one of the many things I watched frequently and my eyes still naturally move to where I had the SAFC-II mounted - I wish I still had an indication of what that "value" is.
To me this makes the Neo an inferior but prettier version of the same thing. I was unaware it had more RPM points tho - that's a good thing.