6G Celicas Forums

I kept the original middle gauge - just swapped over the other two from the beams tach

ya i see that but how did you get it to convert from km/h to mph. did you buy some sort of converter?? Becuase if you seen malpaso new gt-four he has his original km/h gauge but has it converted to read mph..

i think the question is if the speed sensor on the tranny should interpret kms, and will be sending km units to your mph speedo. Therefore adding more miles than it actually is. unless the speedo is the one that interprets the actual distance.

that was something that i was thinking off. have you actually noticed if the speedo is running and adding numbers appropiately?

It seems to be reading right, but can't say for sure - I guess I can use my GPS to confirm -. I think the tranny speed sensor interprets RPM - and the speedo convert that into MPH - (correct me if i'm wrong, but thats my guess.) I'm not using any sort of converter. using the original ST204 electrical housing along with the original middle piece. I remember reading on the mr2.com forum beam section that the same question was ask relating to how you convert to MPH and one of the guys who's done the conversion simply said just use your old one - so I never second thought about that since it works. I guess I could use the beams center piece and read it in KM/H, but the original one was easier to understand.

I'll take it for a spin in a bit with my gps to confirm how acurate it is.

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Ok just took it for a spin with GPS - it is accurate - cruised around at about 20 MPH and GPS read it as so, tried 30MPH then 50MPH and it was accurate - didn't go any higher since didn't want to do more than that in a residential area.

This post has been edited by 2bcelica: Aug 21, 2009 - 4:25 PM

After seeing more pics, I LOVE your car...clean, OEM interior with a few upgrades, but nothing major. Spoilerless and clean, and I like the black license bezel as well. Very well done.

cool, that resolves the speedo issue..

just to clear up some things, the speedo (in the cluster) interpets the signal given by the speed sensor on the tranny.
If you have a uk cluster, it will read in kph, and that's where some guys use a "converter/delimitmer" to change the signal on the cluster to read in mph and use an mph dial.

Noberto, on a side note, I've noticed you've been asking a few questions on some other forums lately...I have all the answers your looking for

Cool swap and a nice looking car dude!

This looks sexy !
I don't understand. Is this better than the ordinary engines?

This link in the stickies should help answer your question and alot more.

Feaseable and Non Feaseable swaps

I mentioned in the past few replies that I'm having some idling issues. I had a chance to take video clips of the problem at hand. I've taken the throttle body out twice to clean it as much as I can. There is not a idle control valve for the Beams that is found on the 5SFE (I wonder if I could just swap over the 5SFE one -where the throttle sensor is for the Beams). I have adjusted the throttle cable to have it idle at about 1100RPM because if i set it lower then tha it starts to seem like it will choke and die, which it did sometimes if I didn't give it gas.

After running around the block for a while with AC on - when i come to a stop in Neutral it would stay at 1k rpm most of the time, but if I turn off the AC in neutral it would jump to 2k rpm and after a few seconds drop back down.

This video clip of the rpm going up and down is when I came to a stop in neutral.



I'm wondering if the AFM (air flow meter) on the air intake might be the problem.

Here is a clip of the gauge cluster throttle response while driving. Sorry for bad quality - I had a hard time videoing and driving at the same time, while watching out for cars.




Here is a clip of the JDM retracting mirrors I had a chance to wire up yesterday. A definite JDM must have.


This post has been edited by 2bcelica: Aug 23, 2009 - 10:34 AM

I gave my AFM a very good cleaning before I installed it. When I first start my car, it idles at around 1100-1200rpm. It will stay there until the engine is warmed up. It then drops to around 800-900rpm.

The steering wheel is so dope

That engine sounds fantastic.

the engine revving up to 2k and down to 1k is the ecu resetting, it takes a few drives for it to come back to normal

wow very nice 2bcelica! nice job on the swap, you've got everything running just perfectly. I rpm needle will drop back to normal idle, from what outsider was saying. I see the mph gauge seems to be working just fine.


Ok and for the speedometer. From what i understood from you and Presure 2. Of course i have to use the original SS-III beams cluster gauge. i swap out the the mph gauge and then i use original at200 electrical housing along with original middle piece. what does original middle piece mean? I guess thats something ill have to learn as time goes on from classes im taking at college for toyota electrical body and toyo ecu???

So malpaso had to use a converter becuase he was using his original km/h gauge with the same electrical housing right!!!


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Aug 24, 2009 - 12:04 AM

Wow those mirrors are crazy.

and nice interior!

This is from my testing experience. I had the entire beams gauges - and thought i could just unplugg the old one and put the beams housing in - but that didn't work. RPM - and speed gauge didn't respond (uses different electrical signal on the pin outs i think). So I took out the beams RPM gauge out of its housing and put it in the ST204 housing. I kept the original Speed Gauge that is in the st204 housing. So which means I am using the original ST204 housing with its original center piece (the speed gauge, MPH).

I'm not sure how malpaso setup is, but I would assume that he wanted to use the middle speed gauge that belonged to the Beams or ST205 - so indeed he would need the converter.

This post has been edited by 2bcelica: Aug 24, 2009 - 8:21 AM

I didn't even clean or check the AFM, which I should of. I'll look into it when I come back home for the weekend. Thanks -

hmm that is quite rough. check your TB wires etc incase something isn't set up right. after you clean it? yeah it could be your AFM (check for wires and air leaks) or your TPS.

I recommend a diangostic, save you the hassle.

This post has been edited by Rusty: Aug 25, 2009 - 1:42 AM