Swap: 3sge Beams into 94GT-RIP=DEAD |
Swap: 3sge Beams into 94GT-RIP=DEAD |
Aug 31, 2009 - 4:39 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
uh hold on a sec Batman. whats that your saying about using a 5sfe throw out disk and bearing. the flywheel and the pressure plate is a 3s. the disk is 5sfe (or just buy the acutal beams disk) and tob is s54. that's what I'm saying. The s54 on 3sge redtop is a helical lsd. So stock axles from usdm gt celica will fit into the tranny correct. I'm very aware of that. Actually it is 3s flywheel, 3s pressure plate, 3s disk with 5s spline, 5s TOB. 5s disk like Manny showed is too small for the 3s flywheel. does anybody else feel confused when this read this. Im thinking im not understanding what you guys are saying. Ok so this is what i plan on doing. Fidanza lightweight flywheel, and a Clutch Master Stage 2 clutch kit. will this work. any pics/ illustrations would help explain and yes, i did change my own clutch with a help of a friend so i kind of know what your talking bout. whats a 5s spline?? -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
Sep 2, 2009 - 10:10 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Engine Coming out today. Sure would like to pull it from the top but doesnt look like there is any room. Man a lift would be handy about now.
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Sep 2, 2009 - 5:04 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
Engine Coming out today. Sure would like to pull it from the top but doesnt look like there is any room. Man a lift would be handy about now. it's do-able from the top. -------------------- |
Sep 2, 2009 - 5:14 PM |
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Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
uh hold on a sec Batman. whats that your saying about using a 5sfe throw out disk and bearing. the flywheel and the pressure plate is a 3s. the disk is 5sfe (or just buy the acutal beams disk) and tob is s54. that's what I'm saying. The s54 on 3sge redtop is a helical lsd. So stock axles from usdm gt celica will fit into the tranny correct. I'm very aware of that. Actually it is 3s flywheel, 3s pressure plate, 3s disk with 5s spline, 5s TOB. 5s disk like Manny showed is too small for the 3s flywheel. the 5s disk does, and is working. especially for these guys that arnt pushing 300+ft lbs. thru the disk yes, its a 3s flywheel you guys would need, 3s pressure plate, 5s disk (or 3s disk with S54 spline count) and s54 TOB Engine Coming out today. Sure would like to pull it from the top but doesnt look like there is any room. Man a lift would be handy about now. it's do-able from the top. 15 or 16 chain links on the drivers side hook, 5 on passanger, lower the tranny and out it comes! -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Sep 2, 2009 - 7:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Its out. Down through the bottom it came. Its a good thing because I have tried everything to get the driver side axle out. We are prying so hard I am concerned something could get boogered up. Any tricks I am not aware of?? In fact the 3sge they just tore out the axle from the tulip as its still in the transaxle.
EDIT * Axles is out. 4ft 2" angle iron and it popped out. * This post has been edited by turnip: Sep 3, 2009 - 9:36 PM |
Sep 6, 2009 - 4:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
yeah axles are a PITA getting out. one reason i love the 7th gen axles. they have a clip in them that prevent pulling the shaft out of the CV. just pull on the axle and it pops out
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
Sep 7, 2009 - 8:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Engine in and hope to have it running this week. Gonna be a busy one with work so I am not sure when I will get back to it. Will keep you all posted. Appreciate all the help.
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Sep 8, 2009 - 1:02 AM |
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Moderator Joined Nov 5, '07 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
wow you dont muck around, good to see more 3s-ge 's being put in
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Sep 12, 2009 - 7:40 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
After a of crazy work week, I finally got a chance to finish hooking everything up in prep to try to start it. Pin 4 and 17 are spliced together and the harness is hooked up. I gave it a whirl and the dash lights up and I hear the fuel pump kick over but when I try to start I get nothing. I went back and checked all of my splices in the engine bay and they look good.
Is there something I am missing? On page one Batman said that a few wires have to be repinned? It seems like the starter is not being told to turn over. I suspect there might be a wire under the dash that needs spliced. I am looking over the ecu pin outs between the two ecu's. I am trying to find a pin out diagram for the three plugs that connect from the beams harness to the under dash harness. trolling mr2.com in the meantime. Thanks This post has been edited by turnip: Sep 12, 2009 - 9:23 PM |
Sep 13, 2009 - 12:08 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
It's not just pins 4 and 17 on EA1, but interior wires also. I told you it wasn't plug and play...
hint : if it's not starting, refer to "starting and charging" in both manuals start with this... was you car m/t ? if so, you need to switch a wire from one interior plug to another. Interior plugs are the 3 plugs next to the ECU that plug in vertically. If it was an auto there's additional wiring like I did with Tina's, Stef's, and Jim's car but it's move involed and difficult to explain online, but I'll try if you need me to, just let me know. m/t - you need to pull the black wire (pin 18) from the white plug and move it to the dark grey plug to pin 17. That is the clutch start switch wire. Overseas and US have the csw wire in different spots, so you need to move pin 18 from the white plug to pin 17 in the dark grey one, just like the 5s harness. didn't you compare the pins in the 2 harnesses before you started ? This post has been edited by Batman722: Sep 13, 2009 - 12:53 AM -------------------- |
Sep 13, 2009 - 8:44 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
First off. Thank you. I did look over the harness before starting but must say I was a little confused as its a little intimidating when you dig into it. Thats when I decided to post up and start doing more research.
So now that you have guided me in the right direction. Pin 18(white) and Pin17(dark grey) are now connected. In reviewing all of the 3 vertical plugs, here is what I have that does not match. Plug E6 (light grey) USDM Harness has Pin 4 - missing on Beams harness - wire color blue with orange rings Plug E3 (Dark Grey) USDM harness has Pin 1 - Beams Pin 8 - Wire color white with blue stripe USDM harness has Pin 10 - 0 on Beams - wire color blue with white stripe USDM harness has Pin 16 - 0 on Beams - wire color pink USDM harness missing Pin 9 - Beams has this - wire color solid grey/silver ring Thanks It's not just pins 4 and 17 on EA1, but interior wires also. I told you it wasn't plug and play...
hint : if it's not starting, refer to "starting and charging" in both manuals start with this... was you car m/t ? if so, you need to switch a wire from one interior plug to another. Interior plugs are the 3 plugs next to the ECU that plug in vertically. If it was an auto there's additional wiring like I did with Tina's, Stef's, and Jim's car but it's move involed and difficult to explain online, but I'll try if you need me to, just let me know. m/t - you need to pull the black wire (pin 18) from the white plug and move it to the dark grey plug to pin 17. That is the clutch start switch wire. Overseas and US have the csw wire in different spots, so you need to move pin 18 from the white plug to pin 17 in the dark grey one, just like the 5s harness. didn't you compare the pins in the 2 harnesses before you started ? This post has been edited by turnip: Sep 13, 2009 - 8:56 AM |
Sep 13, 2009 - 9:04 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
sorry if I came off like a jerk, it was late at night and I was tired.
FYI if you car was an auto, doing this will not make your car start. First off. Thank you. I did look over the harness before starting but must say I was a little confused as its a little intimidating when you dig into it. So now that you have guided me in the right direction. Pin 18(white) and Pin17(dark grey) are now connected. In reviewing all of the 3 vertical plugs, here is what I have that does not match. Plug E6 (light grey) USDM Harness has Pin 4 - missing on Beams harness - wire color blue with orange rings SRS light on the dash. if you want you airbags light on your dash, wire that to power. It normally goes to the SRS fuse in the engine bay. Plug E3 (Dark Grey) USDM harness has Pin 1 - Beams Pin 8 - Wire color white with blue stripe for the US it's for the ABS system to the diagnostic box to check codes USDM harness has Pin 10 - 0 on Beams - wire color blue with white stripe cruise control - splice into the TPS wire on ECU same color if you want to keep your cruise USDM harness has Pin 16 - 0 on Beams - wire color pink OH NOES ! was your car an auto ? USDM harness missing Pin 9 - Beams has this - wire color solid grey/silver ring I don't rememeber Thanks It's not just pins 4 and 17 on EA1, but interior wires also. I told you it wasn't plug and play... hint : if it's not starting, refer to "starting and charging" in both manuals start with this... was you car m/t ? if so, you need to switch a wire from one interior plug to another. Interior plugs are the 3 plugs next to the ECU that plug in vertically. If it was an auto there's additional wiring like I did with Tina's, Stef's, and Jim's car but it's move involed and difficult to explain online, but I'll try if you need me to, just let me know. m/t - you need to pull the black wire (pin 18) from the white plug and move it to the dark grey plug to pin 17. That is the clutch start switch wire. Overseas and US have the csw wire in different spots, so you need to move pin 18 from the white plug to pin 17 in the dark grey one, just like the 5s harness. didn't you compare the pins in the 2 harnesses before you started ? -------------------- |
Sep 13, 2009 - 9:13 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Its a manual.
This celica is being gutted. Cruise, ABS, Airbags all coming off along with everything that is not needed for it to run. It will never see pavement again. Already removed AC and power steering. I will go over everything again and see if it starts. Thanks again. sorry if I came off like a jerk, it was late at night and I was tired.
FYI if you car was an auto, doing this will not make your car start. First off. Thank you. I did look over the harness before starting but must say I was a little confused as its a little intimidating when you dig into it. So now that you have guided me in the right direction. Pin 18(white) and Pin17(dark grey) are now connected. In reviewing all of the 3 vertical plugs, here is what I have that does not match. Plug E6 (light grey) USDM Harness has Pin 4 - missing on Beams harness - wire color blue with orange rings SRS light on the dash. if you want you airbags light on your dash, wire that to power. It normally goes to the SRS fuse in the engine bay. Plug E3 (Dark Grey) USDM harness has Pin 1 - Beams Pin 8 - Wire color white with blue stripe for the US it's for the ABS system to the diagnostic box to check codes USDM harness has Pin 10 - 0 on Beams - wire color blue with white stripe cruise control - splice into the TPS wire on ECU same color if you want to keep your cruise USDM harness has Pin 16 - 0 on Beams - wire color pink OH NOES ! was your car an auto ? USDM harness missing Pin 9 - Beams has this - wire color solid grey/silver ring I don't rememeber Thanks It's not just pins 4 and 17 on EA1, but interior wires also. I told you it wasn't plug and play... hint : if it's not starting, refer to "starting and charging" in both manuals start with this... was you car m/t ? if so, you need to switch a wire from one interior plug to another. Interior plugs are the 3 plugs next to the ECU that plug in vertically. If it was an auto there's additional wiring like I did with Tina's, Stef's, and Jim's car but it's move involed and difficult to explain online, but I'll try if you need me to, just let me know. m/t - you need to pull the black wire (pin 18) from the white plug and move it to the dark grey plug to pin 17. That is the clutch start switch wire. Overseas and US have the csw wire in different spots, so you need to move pin 18 from the white plug to pin 17 in the dark grey one, just like the 5s harness. didn't you compare the pins in the 2 harnesses before you started ? This post has been edited by turnip: Sep 13, 2009 - 9:14 AM |
Sep 13, 2009 - 10:54 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
the reason I ask if it was an auto is the pink wire on IJ1 pin 16 is only on autos...or at least I thought. My 95 GT doesn't have that wire, maybe just a 94 thing.
any recent pics of the car ? -------------------- |
Sep 13, 2009 - 11:20 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I will get some up today. It turns over and sounds like its gonna start but then doesnt. So i am puzzled. Gonna pop out hte plugs and check compression and spark and I knows its getting fuel to the injectors. I am also suspect of vacuum. I am using my charcoal canister and believe to have all the lines hooked up correctly but that might be my issue.
Will post up a little later. Update: Spark on all cylinders. Cylinder Compression is 165 on 1 and 2 Cylinder Compression is 178 on 3 and 4 My book says compression for the 3sge-non beams should be 178 reg with a 142 min. Does anyone have the offical beams compression in lbs per inch? Got back in and tried to start and it ran for a brief second. The fuel line definitely has pressure on it as i had a small leak which rules out the fuel pump. Beginning to suspect the injectors and the TPS sensor. Because holding the throttle in one spot has better results than not touching at all. Update: Injectors seem to be working all indications point to AFM and T/B. Gonna get that aftermarket intake and do some cleaning. Update 9/14 Had it running after fabricating a make shift intake as I do not have the stock beams box. Its running on a open header and idles okay. Ordered that CAI pipe with the AFM sleeve off ebay should be here friday. Will see how that goes. This post has been edited by turnip: Sep 14, 2009 - 2:31 PM |
Sep 14, 2009 - 12:52 AM |
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Moderator Joined Nov 5, '07 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
whoa is that compression right? 3sge (3gen) is about +190psi
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Sep 14, 2009 - 9:29 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
whoa is that compression right? 3sge (3gen) is about +190psi From mr2 beams forum. Compression pressure: Reference level 1.37Mpa converted to psi is 198.7 Limit 1.08Mpa converted to psi is 146.4 This makes sense because the non beams 3sge is 10.5:1 and the beams is 11.0:1 |
Sep 14, 2009 - 4:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '07 From San Diego Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
does the stock 5sfe MAF sensor work with the 3sgem beams?
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Sep 14, 2009 - 8:11 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 24, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Anyone have a beams B-pipe laying around the want to sell? Or has anyone had any luck modding the 5sfe b-pipe? I am toying with this option or just cutting off the stock manifold right above the collector and welding up my own. I would prefer stock option versus welding.
Throwing the axles in now and removing the sway bar and the rest of the exhaust system why I got it up in the air. Then I have get the dash figured out. |
Sep 14, 2009 - 8:36 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 15, '07 From Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 52 (100%) |
what is the b pipe? the second part of the exhaust? yours did not have it?
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