6G Celicas Forums

Hey all. So went to drive the 94 Celica yesterday, and stalled out on me when attempting to leave the complex. Wouldn't restart so had to push it back.

Anyway, seems like the engine isn't getting any fuel. The CEL has been on/off over the past few weeks. Attempted to read it to see what it could be, but it's not throwing a code, just a constant flash.

Tried checking the EFI relay to see if it looked burnt out or anything, but looks alright. Checked all the fuses that it could be and nothing seems to be blown. Can smell gasoline under the hood when trying to start the car, but still a no go.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

This post has been edited by ididntseenothing: Sep 16, 2009 - 3:51 PM

First thing to check is the fuel pump. An easy way to do this is to put your ear on the middle of the rear seat and then turn the ignition to the on position. Do you hear it humming? If no, there is your problem. If it sounds healthy, then you might want to check the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and injector system.

Thanks for the response. Checked and didn't hear the fuel pump humming, so guess will start by replacing that.

Will update in a couple days when I can get around to doing it. Thanks again.

I was thinking about this when I woke up, so I went to check my fuel pump this way, it works for most cars. I have to warn you that my Celica's fuel pump is very quiet and I think you could miss the sound if you had any hearing loss at all. I also listened while the car was running and the sound of fuel running through the lines seemed louder than the pump, those toyota engineers are top notch. I just want to let you know so you don't go and replace something that is working. I would back this diagnosis up by checking fuel pressure, before buying a new pump.

that is correct, toyotas have pretty quiet fuel pumps, I noticed this trying to diagnose the same problem. On a toyota, just unbolt the top fuel line on the filter and see if it spills gas. Removing it from the chair is a bit more a pain. but in your case first, check your spark and the rest of the igntion. Theres no way YOU can tell it is not getting fuel by just a hunch. Also check fuses relays etc.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Sep 17, 2009 - 7:43 PM

Actually had a friend that is a little more mechanically inclined than I am check it out before I went and replaced anything. He pulled the line off the fuel filter and it spilled no gas. He also checked and it's not getting spark either. So little loss at the moment on what it could be.

This makes it easier, if it doesn't spill any gas when you crack the line and crank the engine then the fuel pump is not operating. I would check fuses first, then check to see if you are getting voltage at the pump with a multimeter. You can do this by removing the rear seat and then the access panel.


How did he check for spark? This could also be due to a fuse. In the worst case the ECU could be fried as it controls the fuel delivery and ignition system. In some newer cars the ECU can shut off the pump, not so sure on ours though.

Checked fuses, all seem to be good. He pulled out the plug and put on a spark plug and touched it to a bolt to see if had any spark when cranked it.

As far as the spark goes you need to check your coil. I would suggest doing a resistance check as well. Here is a link to a rundown of how to do that : http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-04.htm


It's odd you would be having no fuel and no spark at the same time. This leads me to believe it is an issue with an area which can cause both of these systems to die at the same time ie. fuses, wiring harness or ECU. The CEL issue you described would be consistent with a short in your harness or an ECU thats on the fritz.

If your not getting fuel or spark check your distributor.
Not the cap/rotor, you need to look at the RPM sensor [4 wire connector].

If the ECU doesn't get an RPM signal from the distributor it won't turn on the fuel pump or the coil.

The CEL could be related to that or it could be something totally different.

It's actually somewhat common for a sensor that is just starting to go bad to turn the CEL on and off, especially in older non OBDII cars [95 and older for you].

Hmm, I wasn't remembering that about OBD I, definitely worth a check then.

also, the easiest way to check if your fuel pump is actually working is to turn the key to the on position, and bridge the FP and B+ pins in the diagnostics box.
you will be able to feel the fuel flowing thru the line from filter to rail, and in the return line.
no fuss, no muss, and no spraying fuel all over.

circuit opening relay kicks on a whole bunch of things, check that its working and trace backwards from there if its not.

Checked out the relays, and they all look to be fine, although broke the plastic around the one while trying to pull it out.

How would I check out the RPM sensor?

The car just might have to be towed to the dealership that a lot of this stuff is over my head. Really not crazy about the idea of laying too much cash into the car with 190k miles on it though.

This post has been edited by ididntseenothing: Sep 27, 2009 - 2:32 PM

The identical thing just happened to me today. I have had the car towed to the dealership but their shop is closed on Sunday. I will call them tomorrow and find out what is the problem.
My guess is the fuel pump. The car will crank but not start.

This post has been edited by conus00: Sep 27, 2009 - 5:42 PM

Got the estimate from the dealership. According to the codes the car is throwing it is fuel pump and knock sensor. They quoted me over $1200. WOW!
I'll be making a separate post about the fairness of the price.

Ended up getting it towed to a local shop today. The car needed a new distributor. Went ahead and just having them fix it that they have the part in, hate to take the $380 hit but two weeks without a vehicle is long enough.

Thanks for all your input guys.