6G Celicas Forums

hey guys, i have recently been in the habit of pulling a a lagos move( )and ive been babying my car until dyno tune time... my car has emanage blue with a base map to get me by until then.

sorry if i explain too long...

my question is ive noticed that when i go WOT when i reach a certain speed/rpm the motor cuts out, as if hit fuel cut. now ive experienced this once before, and i will just say i was going way over the speed limit, but this time i was just around 80. after this, my check engine light came on, and i noticed that i couldnt get into boost (i hear it spooling but no response) it sorta felt like i had a leak somewhere.

I pull over, check my fittings, ic piping etc and everythings good. what i noticed when i turned the car back on was that the check engine light was no longer on, but it was still acting as if it wouldnt go into boost. I wait until daytime to be sure there is nothing loose, and take it for a brief run... no problems. (mind you i didnt get on it hard though)

what do you guys think caused the brief stopping of the motor? im inclined to think that it was fuel cut (due to the base tune done)

oh i forgot to mention, my wideband usually reads 10-11 even when cruising, but sometimes i hear/feel a small hickup and it will jump to 14 when cruising. i noticed now that when i accelerate, it goes from 10 to 14, (at about 4k rpm) then back down to ten. am i right in assuming that this is just a tuning hickup and wait? if not what should i check next?

again, sorry i typed so much, just wanted to be as detailed as possible for those without ADD like me, can ya help me out?

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Oct 18, 2009 - 10:40 PM

Lagos move? lol You mean where you properly maintain your car and have it running for more than 5yrs after you swapped it as a reliable daily driver?

1. sounds like normal fuel cut. turn the boost down or get a map clamp designed to work for map based cars.
2. sounds like your o2 sensor is not working at all. time for a new one. you'll also get a much more responsive and faster car when you fix this. this is assuming you have stock injectors installed.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 16, 2009 - 3:22 PM

Did you ever get around to trying to pull those codes?

YUP! thats absolutely right lagos! i dont know if u realize it, but youre my hero! lol i try to read as many of your posts as i can to learn somethin (this goes for several others) btw i appreciate u checkin up on my posts.

how can u tell that it is these issues? just curious...

a map clamp eh? i have a general understanding of them, but i have a piggyback on already (greddy emanage blue). from what i understand, a map clamp is a "hatchet" and a piggyback is a scalple (to coin a phrase lol, also would i have to be tuning when i install the clamp?

I have the stock 550cc injectors, i was told they would suffice, should i be looking into 600s?

yikes! 02 sensor...my butt hurts already... but u gotta pay to play eh? i guess the sensor went bad from running so rich... (may also explain the sulphur smell i get sometimes, may not have been just the cat converter)



man i couldnt get to it, i had too much crap come up and of course it decides to rain pimps and prostitutes on sunday before i went to work...

waiting on 02 sensor from a friend, i forgot to mention, i would often get a sulphur like smell this would have to do with the o2 sensor right? or is it a failed cat?

oops already posted here

This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 23, 2009 - 4:30 AM

fuel cut at 18psi, might be the same on gen 4.

are you open boosting?

nah, i hear open boosting is pretty dangerous. i have a wastegate (although it does seem like its not holding boost at times stiffer spring may be needed) but my boost is set low to 10psi right now.

Less thinking... more O2 sensor replacing. Thats whats needed here.

youre the man lagos!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Sep 23, 2009 - 11:52 AM

UPDATE: Over the past few weeks, i have checked codes and I found i was running a 21,24,25,52,&78.

tweak walked me thru how to run a diagnostic in my car by grounding a wire from the ecu and sent me this code list.

after replacing the knock sensor and O2 sensor, i figured i would be runnin good, but car is still running erratic. (is also still hitting boost cut, which will hopefully be fixed when i get an external map and tune)

I know why its hard for me to hold boost at highway speed(cheapo B.S. RFL blow off valve) but what i found interesting is that after driving on the highway, and going to normal street speeds, the car idles and accelerates rough, sporadically. it feels rough when accelerating, then kicks in like normal.


anybody know what may be causing this? sorry if i may not have explained well enough, please ask if you need clarification.

im thinking my a coupler on my ic piping may be loose, but ive checked them. will double check again tomorrow.



i attatched some diagnostic codes in case somebody may need to check theirs down the line (thanx tweak,and lagos for all the help!)

did you try checking the other things listed by the codes? Intake air temp sensor connected?
any piggy backs installed? if so, it could be a bad install job causing you these problems.

Who installed this and setup it up? Sounds like its wiring related or something is not setup in that emanage with all those codes that its throwing.
You should remove the emanage, put the wiring back to stock, and see if the problem goes away.

the intake air temp that goes into the manifold is installed, but the one on the intake isnt (i will drill a hole in there this week) yeah i have a emanage blue



all codes are gone now! the knock code, and the O2 sensor code are gone after being replaced. the check engine light flashed constantly showing no codes, but after that drive, i will check again. i think it was a ****ty base tune job though, but i will try to replace the BOV first

you realize that the intake air temp sensor has a lot to do with fueling your car, right? it HAS to be installed.

Yeah, i bungled, was told it would be ok since there were two of them, but imma get the drillin ASAP! shoulda went ahead and did it while i was @doc's but the rough acceleration is a new problem, sorta feels like when a coupler blows off, but dosent stay that way. imma triple check the piping....

You can sometimes get away with not installing the second one, but the one in the intake must be installed. Its how your car calculates the amount of fuel to send to the engine.

As for the rest of it, you need to take a look at that emange. Its either wired in poorly, or someone didn't set it up right. Check the wiring, then hook up a laptop to it and clear any corrections that are done to the fuel map. If you are on stock injectors, there shouldnt be any need for corrections.

This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 19, 2009 - 9:56 AM

ok, will do. i think they set everything to 0 or something? did a base map until time for tune, but never really had any problems until recent. thanks lagos! will let ya know how it goes