Plugs and Wire change gone bad, 10 min. job turns into a 2 day plus job |
Plugs and Wire change gone bad, 10 min. job turns into a 2 day plus job |
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 20, '04 From Carlisle, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 27 (100%) |
Where in PA are you?
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:42 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 14, '09 From Mid West Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) |
Can you get one of those cheap box cutters--long narrow plastic that has a razor in it,then extend the blade long enough to reach the rubber,then slice the rubber in a few places,then use a shop vac or vacuum cleaner with an attachment to clean out the pieces?
Maybe this would also free the pliers?? |
Nov 12, 2009 - 2:03 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 10, '09 From pa Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Where in PA are you? Wellsboro PA, Maybe 20-25 mins away from Mansfield University. Can you get one of those cheap box cutters--long narrow plastic that has a razor in it,then extend the blade long enough to reach the rubber,then slice the rubber in a few places,then use a shop vac or vacuum cleaner with an attachment to clean out the pieces? Maybe this would also free the pliers?? I can attempt to do it. I have a whole box of those box cutters, so i will see what i can come up with. -------------------- BABI BOI
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Nov 12, 2009 - 2:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
i would not drill the pliers because when you do get them out there will be shaving in the plug tube and once you pull the spark plug they will fall into the cylinder. try to spray wd40 down in the tub then use the needle nose vise grips on the pliers and push down and twist side to side
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Nov 12, 2009 - 3:56 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 10, '09 From pa Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Ok so i finally got the pliers out, and all the peices of rubber. All that is left is to put it all back together. Thank you everybody for all the ideas and advise. Galcobar's idea about removing the tube was what got everything back to the way it was suppost to be. Again thank you everybody.
-------------------- BABI BOI
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Nov 12, 2009 - 5:44 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) |
Wow, what a process. Well im glad that you got them out, now you can wrap it up and be done with it.
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Nov 12, 2009 - 5:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
dont forget to use sealant on the bottom of the tube when you reinstall it or it will leak oil
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Nov 12, 2009 - 6:29 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 10, '09 From pa Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
dont forget to use sealant on the bottom of the tube when you reinstall it or it will leak oil I can just use the high temp lock tight right? Plus when i was changing the other plugs, the very first plug had just a very little bit of oil on it, should i pull that tube as well and reseal it? -------------------- BABI BOI
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Nov 12, 2009 - 8:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
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This post has been edited by bmj67: Nov 12, 2009 - 11:45 PM |
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:22 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
NO -- DO NOT use FIPG or any other valve-cover goop on the spark plug tube threads.
The proper sealant is high-temp thread locker (blue) or teflon tape. This is on the threads, not the valve cover or the rubber seals |
Nov 12, 2009 - 10:55 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
3. INSTALL SPARK PLUG TUBES
(a) Clean the cylinder head tube holes of any residual adhesive, oil or foreign particles. Remove any oil with kerosene or gasoline. (b) Screw the threads of the spark plug tube coated with adhesive into the cylinder head. © Using the spark plug tube nut and a 30 mm socket wrench, tighten the spark plug tubes. Torque: 39 N·m (400 kgf·cm, 29 ft·lbf) right from BGB the adhesive they say to use is Adhesive: Part No.08833-00070, Adhesive 1324, THREE BOND 1324 or equivalent |
Nov 12, 2009 - 11:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Could you please link to the appropriate BGB page, this would be the first time I've seen such a recommendation for the 5SFE and the threaded plug tubes. I have seen that for pressed-in tubes, but not the 5SFE's threaded ones.
This post has been edited by Galcobar: Nov 12, 2009 - 11:21 PM |
Nov 12, 2009 - 11:42 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/Eng...chanical_I4.pdf
thats the page i was looking at and the only adhesive i saw was the 1324 |
Nov 13, 2009 - 12:13 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Ah, EM-53.
If you look over the preparation section of the manual you'll note the adhesive section contains three items. 08826–00080 Seal Packing Black or equivalent (FIPG) 08833–00070 Adhesive 1324, THREE BOND 1324 or equivalent 08833–00080 Adhesive 1344 THREE BOND 1344 LOCTITE 242 or equivalent Loctite 242 is blue thread locker. Both of the Three Bond products mentioned are also thread lockers, rather than gasket seals. |
Nov 13, 2009 - 9:40 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 10, '09 From pa Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Ok so now i know what to use to re-install the tubes. Should i remove the first tube and redo that one as well. When i changed the plug in the first spot there was a little oil on it. Not alot just very little.
-------------------- BABI BOI
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Nov 13, 2009 - 8:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
if you're there then yes, reseal the tubes.
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